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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Coquitlam
    Posts
    21

    no ducts on top floor of 3 floor house

    I just installed a Carrier 58MVC and their 16 SEER heat pump. I am using the Infinity control that is mounted on the middle floor. My middle floor and basement cool perfect. However, if I go upstairs, I get cooked. Average is about 28C in each of the 3 bedrooms. Currently, my furnance is pushing about 1000 CFM through the ducts for both main and basement floor. This unit is capable of doing 1400 CFM. Here is what I am thinking of doing:

    I have full access to the attic on the top floor. I was thinking of installing ducts in throught the attic to each of the rooms. Then, I was going to run a single line from outside down to the furnance in the basement. I am thinking going outside since I don't want to rip walls to get up to the attic. Once, I get this done, I am going to zone the upstairs using a Infinity Control zone control.

    I would like people to comment on the pipe I need to install outside to get up to attic. What issues am I going to have?

    P

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Central Maryland
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by kingsingh View Post
    I just installed a Carrier 58MVC and their 16 SEER heat pump. I am using the Infinity control that is mounted on the middle floor. My middle floor and basement cool perfect. However, if I go upstairs, I get cooked. Average is about 28C in each of the 3 bedrooms. Currently, my furnance is pushing about 1000 CFM through the ducts for both main and basement floor. This unit is capable of doing 1400 CFM.
    Are your ducts capable of 1400CFM?

    Quote Originally Posted by kingsingh View Post
    Here is what I am thinking of doing:

    I have full access to the attic on the top floor. I was thinking of installing ducts in throught the attic to each of the rooms. Then, I was going to run a single line from outside down to the furnance in the basement. I am thinking going outside since I don't want to rip walls to get up to the attic. Once, I get this done, I am going to zone the upstairs using a Infinity Control zone control.
    What about returns? Isn't the best way to cool an upstairs is to also get hot air out, not just pump cool air in, which will immediately head downstairs?

    Quote Originally Posted by kingsingh View Post
    I would like people to comment on the pipe I need to install outside to get up to attic. What issues am I going to have?
    P
    Condensation, picking up heat, cost, possible need of a permit since you are expanding the footprint of your house.

    -HF

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    66,773
    First issue, is the outside duct will cost almost as much as opening the walls up.
    It will cost you more to heat and cool that floor because the duct is outside.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Coquitlam
    Posts
    21
    Of course there will be insulation around the duct and I would build a box around it to seem it is part of the inside. I am thinking it may be cheaper to do the outside solution, than ripping out walls?

    In the attic I was going to add a powered fan to suck out all the hot air.

    P

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    66,773
    2" insulated duct is not cheap.
    By the time you have the duct installed, and have a nice looking chaise built and painted around it. The opening and closing of the inside wall will have been cheaper.
    Plus the permit fee. Outside chaise isn't something your going to hide from the inspecters or neighbors.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Coquitlam
    Posts
    21
    Of course there will be insulation around the duct and I would build a box around it to seem it is part of the inside. I am thinking it may be cheaper to do the outside solution, than ripping out walls?

    In the attic I was going to add a powered fan to suck out all the hot air.

    P

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Coquitlam
    Posts
    21
    the other problem I have with going on the inside is that I might have many more bends to be able to get to the top. I don't think I can go straight up.

    My furnance sits next the the outside wall. I was going to cut a hold and to straight up to the roof rafters. This should be about less than 20 feet up. Then, in the attic I can use whatever. I am sure less than 20 feet is not going to cost me a fortune. Also, this is near the back of the house and I am sure no one will notice it.

    Comments?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    66,773
    2 chaises in the house are cheaper then going outside.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Cedar Grove, Wi-Sheboygan
    Posts
    1,582
    First I would determine what type of construction you house is ???? If it is what is considered Balloon construction you should be able to chase it all the way from the basement up to your attice on any one of your gable ends of the house, if it is platform construction then you would have alittle work ahead of yourself. So first check to see what you have, then decide from there which way is best, if you have no wall paper in any of the rooms where you would need to cut a wall open I would go that route instead of building a chase way outside, by using the wall cavity your chase is already there just a matter of putting the duct work in and closing up the wall with alittle insulation IMO is a hell of alot cheaper than constructing a whole new chase way with 2X6's or 2X4's, OSB, Siding, Insulation, and maybe some roofing VS a couple sheets of drywall and some mud. I know which way I would go, There another option you can do also would be to open up the exterior of the house between the studs and go that route, remove siding cut the wall open and close it back up could be a easier alternate the the inside, but I nor anyone else here can see your home form here to determine which is the best and cheapiest way to go. But none the less wither the interior or exterior wall cavity is going to be alot cheaper no matter which you choose, f course it's alittle bit of work if you do it yourself but you obiously do not like the heat so whats your comfort level worth and the comfort level of your wife's worth plus the peace and quite you would have after doing it the right way the first time. I got a neighbor who is residing his garage, he has clap bd siding on it now with no overhanf or soffit, I told him he would be best served and less work if he removed the old siding, but he obvisouly knew more then me and decided the 1/2" foam bd. went over the existing real nice so he left the old siding on, well guess who came knocking on my door yesterday needing me to come over to show him how to fix what to do up along the roof where his new siding is out beyound the roof line So now he has 2 options, remove what he did and do it right, or leave it and rework the roof I thought I would tell you that just to show short vuts are never the best option, period !!! If your gonna do it, Do it right the first time is always cheaper, Just Ask my neighbor

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