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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    25

    Confused A/C won't go below 80*

    Newb here...got a question. I am using the search function, but it is taking a while to go through those posts.

    I have a Goodman 12 seer, 5 ton unit in a 2100 sq ft house with 9 ft. ceilings.

    The house was built in 2000, so the unit is 8 years old. Being in Arizona, temps are in the 110's during the summer. For the last 7 summers, it has been fine. This year, the inside temp will not go below 80*. I can set the temp at 81, it will kick on at 82 - bring it down to 80 and kick off just fine. If I set it at 80, it will kick on at 81 and continually run because it won't go below 80.

    I have tried a couple different thermostats, new filters and have had 3 different service companies out here to look at it. All 3 have said that the unit is working at maximum efficiency and there is nothing wrong with it.

    There must be something different as the last 7 years was not an issue cooling the house to 77*.

    Any thoughts??

    Thanks,

    Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    2,504
    get another opinion.

    I would be willing to bet that you need to have it serviced.....Properly.
    I fully support the military and the War on Terrorism.


    If you don't know, then don't do. If you don't know and still do, then be prepared to pay someone else a lot to undo what you did and then do it right.

    If you do know, then do. But do it right. Otherwise, you may not be doing it long.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by iraqveteran View Post
    get another opinion.

    I would be willing to bet that you need to have it serviced.....Properly.
    Can you explain what properly is? Is there a certain term I should use when requesting service?

    All have stated that a general checkup would be sufficient.

    All three have done the following:

    Checked the blower motor for dust/build-up.
    Checked the coils for dust/build-up.
    Measured pressure at the compressor.
    Checked freon(?) levels.
    Inspected return pressure.

    I am sure I am missing something, but where?

    Thanks for the reply.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Posts
    1,398
    Quote Originally Posted by mbarizona View Post
    Can you explain what properly is? Is there a certain term I should use when requesting service?

    All have stated that a general checkup would be sufficient.

    All three have done the following:

    Checked the blower motor for dust/build-up.
    Checked the coils for dust/build-up.
    Measured pressure at the compressor.
    Checked freon(?) levels.
    Inspected return pressure.

    I am sure I am missing something, but where?

    Thanks for the reply.
    You are missing the part where they actually clean the coils etc, not just check them. Given your symptoms I might also look for duct leaks.

    Don't call for pre-season "tune-up" specials. If the system truly cooled the house below 80* at 110* outside in the past you need to request a service call and understand it might take a couple hours to properly diagnose the issue.
    Climate Control Solutions for your Home or Office

    Serving Northeast Philadelphia and Surrounding Areas

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,769
    Tell them you want it cleaned and serviced.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    The Twilight Zone
    Posts
    2,964
    Check ductwork for leaks, especially if they run in a hot attic.

    Measure superheat and subcooling to determine if system is charged properly.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    70

    Confused

    I live in Phoenix, AZ so if you live you can e-mail me with the contractors you've had at your house and I can tell you if that's the problem. There's a lot of very poor residential companies in phoenix... I've gone behind them a lot.. actually an hour ago a company told the customer they cant fix his leak, took me 2 min. to braze or "weld" it shut again, hard to say what's really going on. I've seen companies not even inspect the air handler/furnace and tell them they need a new indoor coil... sooo ????

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    70

    Cool

    how do I put my e-mail up in my public profile?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    Turn off all exhaust fans .clothes dryer,etc.,then to find large duct leaks,open the door between the home and garage just a crack,with the system on ,if air moves in or out you have large duct leaks.

    Air moving in indicates suppy air leaks,air moving out indicates return duct leaks.A candle is a good tool here,significant leakage can blow it out.

    Unfortunately if the supply and return lweaks are equal,no air will move in or out.

    So it also follows that,if the supply leaked 50 cfms and the return 100 cfms,the door would only indicate 50 cfms of return lakage,not that all 50 cfms would be following the cracked door.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,769
    Quote Originally Posted by dj3901783 View Post
    ]dj3901783999 at hotmail dot com
    No email addys or email links allowed in post. Edit yours out.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    25
    Thanks for all of the replys and suggestions.

  12. #12
    started a new thread...
    Last edited by johndoe74; 07-05-2008 at 10:49 PM. Reason: started a new thread

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,516
    Quote Originally Posted by johndoe74 View Post
    I have a similar problem, I live in AZ and one of my Goodman 3.5 ton SEER 12 units (only 2-year-old) is having trouble cooling the rooms below 80F in daytime after running for at least 3 hours straight (outside temp 100 to 110F). The differences between ambient temp and cool air coming out of the vent vary from 11F to 18F. My attic has R30 insulation.

    When the tech came, here are some measurements he took:

    Sub cool: 11F / 10F
    Superheat: 5F / 5F
    Low side PSI: 75 / 77
    High Side PSI: 280 / 260
    Compressor: 22.1 - 18.3
    Condenser: 1.6 -1.1

    He told me those numbers look fine, and all he did is changing the piston from size 74 to 78 (according to him this will increase freon flow), and 'flush' the system.

    Anyway, those didn't help at all, and now I have to call them back and do more diagnostics. What else can I ask them to look into?
    first not meaning to be rude but start your own tread so any info is for your problem only
    thanks


    now to the OP
    call and ask for a service call and not a pm. Let them know you want you coils cleaned mainly the outside condenser coil. With the sand and or pollen it doesnt take muck the plug this coil and you will loose cooling.

    you want readings pressure and temp. Super heat and subcooling not just it is running fine that doesnt cut it.

    you want the system checked for leaks in ducts


    this may cost more but not as much as all the maintence calls have that havent fixed your problem

    if it cooled your house last year at 110 then it should do it this year
    if it didnt then no matter it wont again

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