A/C won't go below 80*
Newb here...got a question. I am using the search function, but it is taking a while to go through those posts.
I have a Goodman 12 seer, 5 ton unit in a 2100 sq ft house with 9 ft. ceilings.
The house was built in 2000, so the unit is 8 years old. Being in Arizona, temps are in the 110's during the summer. For the last 7 summers, it has been fine. This year, the inside temp will not go below 80*. I can set the temp at 81, it will kick on at 82 - bring it down to 80 and kick off just fine. If I set it at 80, it will kick on at 81 and continually run because it won't go below 80.
I have tried a couple different thermostats, new filters and have had 3 different service companies out here to look at it. All 3 have said that the unit is working at maximum efficiency and there is nothing wrong with it.
There must be something different as the last 7 years was not an issue cooling the house to 77*.
get another opinion.
I would be willing to bet that you need to have it serviced.....Properly.
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Can you explain what properly is? Is there a certain term I should use when requesting service?
Originally Posted by iraqveteran
All have stated that a general checkup would be sufficient.
All three have done the following:
Checked the blower motor for dust/build-up.
Checked the coils for dust/build-up.
Measured pressure at the compressor.
Checked freon(?) levels.
Inspected return pressure.
I am sure I am missing something, but where?
Thanks for the reply.
You are missing the part where they actually clean the coils etc, not just check them. Given your symptoms I might also look for duct leaks.
Originally Posted by mbarizona
Don't call for pre-season "tune-up" specials. If the system truly cooled the house below 80* at 110* outside in the past you need to request a service call and understand it might take a couple hours to properly diagnose the issue.
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Tell them you want it cleaned and serviced.
Check ductwork for leaks, especially if they run in a hot attic.
Measure superheat and subcooling to determine if system is charged properly.
Turn off all exhaust fans .clothes dryer,etc.,then to find large duct leaks,open the door between the home and garage just a crack,with the system on ,if air moves in or out you have large duct leaks.
Air moving in indicates suppy air leaks,air moving out indicates return duct leaks.A candle is a good tool here,significant leakage can blow it out.
Unfortunately if the supply and return lweaks are equal,no air will move in or out.
So it also follows that,if the supply leaked 50 cfms and the return 100 cfms,the door would only indicate 50 cfms of return lakage,not that all 50 cfms would be following the cracked door.
I live in Phoenix, AZ so if you live you can e-mail me with the contractors you've had at your house and I can tell you if that's the problem. There's a lot of very poor residential companies in phoenix... I've gone behind them a lot.. actually an hour ago a company told the customer they cant fix his leak, took me 2 min. to braze or "weld" it shut again, hard to say what's really going on. I've seen companies not even inspect the air handler/furnace and tell them they need a new indoor coil... sooo ????
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Originally Posted by dj3901783
Thanks for all of the replys and suggestions.
Last edited by johndoe74; 07-05-2008 at 10:49 PM.
Reason: started a new thread