Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 13 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    26

    Evap? producing too much water?!

    Last time I asked a question here, it was for my downstairs unit. Now, my upstairs unit is causing me grief.

    The unit shuts itself off automatically because of the overflow detector found inside the drain pipe. I believe that the pipe is draining correctly, but I might be wrong. In addition, the unit seems to be producing more condensation/water than it should (otherwise why would it be shutting off after 1 minute).

    I had a tech here just last Tuesday. My pressures were good (40? I think) at the condenser. The temp drops were approx 22. This applies to both units.

    Any ideas about what is happening here? I guess the evap coil could have failed since Tuesday, but I doubt it.

    5-yo Trane XR12 5-ton.

    Any help and/or insights are greatly welcomed.

    I will likely have to call the tech again, but it helps to know what might be going on.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    34
    I don't know but 5 tons is huge! Haha. What is your footage? Just curious.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    26
    2600 up
    2600 down

    Yes, it's huge, but we got a fantastic deal on the house a few years back and we have enough children to fill it...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    108
    Would definitely want to confirm drains indeed are clear and flowing. Depending on drain trap configuration the air turbulence at the coil drain outlet could be splashing condensation and creating a 'false-fail' effect. A loose duct could allow new moisture into space, adding to water removal. Poor airflow can increase condensation, but not enough to fill the secondary drain.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Houston Texas
    Posts
    6,308
    Simple enough for whatever reason you have a clogged drainline. Have a tech out and have the lines flushed and if need be have the sewer vent lines snaked out by a plumber. Have this attended to ASAP before it floods your ceiling and cost you a great deal of money and frustration.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    26
    Thanks for the reply. I poured a bit of clorox down the drain portion, as is annually recommended. At this point, all appears to be OK. I have a plumber's snake, but apparently am not very adept

    Just before the trap, there is an opening in the pvc line, apparently for some form of venting. I can feel water going - down the drain pipe. Can I assume this is normal?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,350
    Can you provide a picture of the drain setup? If it's clean and you're still having issues, then I would turn to the actual drainage system setup. What kind of system do you have?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    66,824
    Just before teh trap?
    There should be a cap on it, if its between the trap and unit.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Lexington, NC
    Posts
    5,122
    Yes, this is normal if the drain is on the positive side of the airflow system. I think that you may need to check to see if the unit is level. Take the door off and see if water is standing in or overflowing on one side of the evap coil. Keep that clorox off of the aluminum coil.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Houston Texas
    Posts
    6,308
    Boiler do you have electric heat or gas heat.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    26
    Thanks for all the replies. I will look at some of these tomorrow.

    I have gas heat.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    17
    already stated check that your drain line is clear.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    26
    A previous tech (a couple of years ago) must have removed the caps, as I found them on top of the units. I put the caps back in place. Totally makes sense how the caps are required to aid condensation flow out of the units.

    One other question. As noted, the post-evap drains both have traps and, at some point downstream, actually tee together. Near the tee, there is another opening in the PVC. This is behind BOTH traps. Should that one be capped? Does it matter; are there pitfalls; etc?

    Thanks again.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event