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Thread: Why did they install a "Hard Start Kit"

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by arpa View Post
    For the past 15 years or more, here in SE FL, to be able to get the residential rebate/incentive, you must install a hard start on any system 3 to 5 tons, and they check it to make sure it is there.

    Remind me of the stuff you go through the next time I have a hankering to leave Michigan!

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by arpa View Post
    For the past 15 years or more, here in SE FL, to be able to get the residential rebate/incentive, you must install a hard start on any system 3 to 5 tons, and they check it to make sure it is there.
    Are you having electrical issues with low voltage and/or spikes in your area arpa? Just wondering why they would make that requirement.

    I for one am real quick to toss a hard start capacitor into a unit. I've used up to three tandem hard start capacitors to unstick compressors. Only had one real major issue when one compressor blew a hole out of the side of the can....oops
    Training is important!
    Practical Training is a must!

  3. #23
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    spikes, surges, voltage problems, brown outs, it's a way of life here..
    On commercial equipment, 3 phase is a very real problem with always loosing a leg....

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoBoTeq View Post
    Are you having electrical issues with low voltage and/or spikes in your area arpa? Just wondering why they would make that requirement.

    I for one am real quick to toss a hard start capacitor into a unit. I've used up to three tandem hard start capacitors to unstick compressors. Only had one real major issue when one compressor blew a hole out of the side of the can....oops
    It is required to help stave off dimming light complaints because they run minimun wire from xformer to home.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoBoTeq View Post
    Are you having electrical issues with low voltage and/or spikes in your area arpa? Just wondering why they would make that requirement.

    I for one am real quick to toss a hard start capacitor into a unit. I've used up to three tandem hard start capacitors to unstick compressors. Only had one real major issue when one compressor blew a hole out of the side of the can....oops
    Not to get off topic, but any of you guys still using the "annie" or other form of booster box? I've got an off the wall brand, but same purpose, started and saved a many of stuck compressors, especially in big window shakers....Go on and laugh..

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by machery View Post
    Not to get off topic, but any of you guys still using the "annie" or other form of booster box? I've got an off the wall brand, but same purpose, started and saved a many of stuck compressors, especially in big window shakers....Go on and laugh..

    "annie" still rides in my truck.......


    use it all the time on refrig units to confirm compressor is good or bad before replacing start components.


    usually break loose a couple stuck compressors each spring then throw on a superboost.

  7. #27
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    here is a little long lost info on hardstart kits. every manufacturing company offers them if you look on the wiring diagrams but they offer it as an option, leaving it up to the person to who installed it to decide if it needs to be put on.

    this is what i was told and i will pass it on to those who want it. an efficient compressor should not draw over 50% of its LRA rating. when it does it should have a start device installed. now there are many different devices out there such a ptc thermistors, "start boost" and a start capacitor with seprate potential relay both sized propely for the size and starting characteristics of the compressor. ie sized for the proper back emf of the compressor. also with my experience it is best to have a 10 amp feild installed fuse in series with the start capacitor. so when the relay or capacitor goes bad you blow a fuse instead of blowing up leaving that sweet smell of quick cheap fix from another service co.

    dont get me wrong in most cases the "start boosts" will do the job in most cases but wait and see the fire works when the relay sitcks and burns a buch of wires. a guy i work with loves them and ive already had to replace 3 warranty ones and lots of rewiring. all only lasted less then a month. and yes some of the units were approacing 10 years old and theres also a lot of other varibles to consider.

    but my experince with multi capable parts is that instead of being great at one application they are ok for most applications but not every application. if you would like more specifics on how to size a potental relay i will teach all who is willing to learn. just when i make over to the pro's. cya there sometime soon!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by machery View Post
    Not to get off topic, but any of you guys still using the "annie" or other form of booster box? I've got an off the wall brand, but same purpose, started and saved a many of stuck compressors, especially in big window shakers....Go on and laugh..
    The Annie is fine for stuck compressors where there are no other issues, but most issues with whole house cooling equipment is due to flucuating electrical currents.
    Training is important!
    Practical Training is a must!

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoBoTeq View Post
    Are you having electrical issues with low voltage and/or spikes in your area arpa? Just wondering why they would make that requirement.

    I for one am real quick to toss a hard start capacitor into a unit. I've used up to three tandem hard start capacitors to unstick compressors. Only had one real major issue when one compressor blew a hole out of the side of the can....oops
    lol did you have to get out the spare unifom from the truck. havent had that happen yet but one time when i had two 161-193 start caps wired in series the cardboard relief flexed pretty good.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by lost_art View Post
    lol did you have to get out the spare unifom from the truck. havent had that happen yet but one time when i had two 161-193 start caps wired in series the cardboard relief flexed pretty good.
    I didn't even have time to be scared enough to soil myself. I saw the side of the compressor starting to glow and I dove through bushes that were between me and the safety of the lawn. That sucker made one major mess when it blew.
    Training is important!
    Practical Training is a must!

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoBoTeq View Post
    The Annie is fine for stuck compressors where there are no other issues, but most issues with whole house cooling equipment is due to flucuating electrical currents.
    Oh yeah. When I come upon a stuck or locked compressor, If the capacitor is good, I'll add a hard start, if that doesn't get it going, "annie" pays a visit. If she breaks it loose, then, I'll Start again with the factory capacitor till it starts on it's own, or with a hard start, or it's done. If "annie doesn't start it, it's done. This is all providing the voltage is within the nameplate rating.

  12. #32
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by RoBoTeq View Post
    I didn't even have time to be scared enough to soil myself. I saw the side of the compressor starting to glow and I dove through bushes that were between me and the safety of the lawn. That sucker made one major mess when it blew.
    man i wish i could have been there that would have been a great learning experience!!! seriously we got to trade war stories when i turn pro!!!

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