Does this system have dehumidification controls?....
Yes, the new system has humidity control. In my mind, that is the only plausible explanation for higher energy use since the system may be running longer to control humidity. I have no idea if it is running longer. I have the humidity set at 40%. Even so, the energy usage spikes are weird.
I have not changed any duct work other that what the install company did at the furnace to adjust for the smaller furnace size. My dryer is gas. My giant electric hog of a hot tub was turned off at the same time as the heat pump install on May 30.
While I was not expecting a significant savings, I did expect to see 10-15% in lower electric utility bills, not 20% higher. Again, all other electricity uses in the house are the same between May and June. The only variable is the hot tub no longer drawing power and the outside temp/humidity being higher.
Yes, the new system has humidity control. In my mind, that is the only plausible explanation for higher energy use since the system may be running longer to control humidity. I have no idea if it is running longer. I have the humidity set at 40%. Even so, the energy usage spikes are weird.
higher.
Humidity control-dehumidistat or humiditrol? Fan "on" or "off"? Humidity control should approx. 50%RH. Lower is impossible under many conditions and use alot of electricity trying. Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
Honeywell IAQ is the t-stat. I have it set to achieve 40% humidity (dehumidify) and it is on "Auto". Temp is set to 73* during the day and 76* at night. It easily achieves the 40% humidity. It has even gotten below that some times (38%).
I can have them increase the CFM. It was set slightly below the factory set point. Would that help reduce run times? I know humidity would be harder to control.
Usually better off with the blower set closer to 400 CFM per ton and letting the IAQ slow the blower if the humidity gets high.
Most likely, your old system didn't keep your humidity anywhere near 40%RH. And now keeping it that low, you are increasing the run time the A/C has to keep the humidity that low. There by raising your electric usage.
If you set your humidity to 45%, and the blwer to 400 CFM per ton, you'll see a drop in electric usage
If you want to maintain a 40%RH. Either check into sealing your homes envelope better, or settle with having a high electric bill.
Originally Posted by andserco
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