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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Post Likes
    one other approach
    Keep all the moisture outside.

    Wall construction - from inside to out
    5/8" sheetrock
    2x6 stud wall
    sheathing (I like the hurriquake nails)
    peel and stick roofing membrane (instead of house wrap)
    2" thick polyiso foam (in 4x8 sheets) gives R12.9 continuous
    3/4" PT plywood strips screwed through foam and sheathing into studs for drainage plane - requires 4" SS screws.
    siding - hardiplank or whatever. applied with SS screws to the PT plywood.

    The peel and stick roofing membrane is self healing and will keep all exterior moisture outside. The inside stays at room temperature / humidity. The wall dries from the peel and stick roofing membrane out.

    Since your house is on piers, the polyiso foam should never be subject to termites. If there is a possibility, look into Termidor.

    Ray Moore, a builder in Austin Texas uses this approach for air-tight houses with VERY low AC bills.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    May 2008
    North Texas
    Post Likes
    The rain screen approach is the way to go in high rainfall areas.

    Water will find a way in. It doesn't hurt to have a backup in place when it does.

    I want to make clear that I am not advocating a vapor barrier on the interior plane. Latex paint is semi-perm, and therefore controls the rate of moisture exchange. Given that most homes will have sheetrock and interior latex paint, it becomes a constraint.

    Anyway, for those who like data, here's a study on walls at Gulfport MS:
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