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  1. #1

    Residential HVAC Replacement With Trane Products/Installer

    Hello all,

    Ever since we purchased and moved into our current townhome in 2005, we were making plans to get rid of the 23 to 25 years old HVAC system in our home. The old compressor unit can barely keep the house cool during the summer months in NJ. As for the gas furnace, the carbon monoxide leak my good neighbor experienced haunted me night after night. Finally, after 2 1/2 years, we decided to go ahead with the work. First, we contacted 3 companies for estimates. The outfits we contacted were the utility company, a big box store, and a small local contractor. We only received 2 estimates. Apparently, the local contractor would not provide us with a quote unless we can make same day decision. Anyways, in the end, we went with the big box store. There are many reasons behind the decision (price, warranty, impression of the sales person, etc).

    The contractors from the big box store performed the installation yesterday. The furnace is Trane XV80 (2 stages with variable speed fan motor). The compressor unit is Trane XR13 (2.5 ton). I am not too sure about the indoor coil though. While I am absolutely no expert on HVAC system, I feel the installation (furnace) MIGHT BE a bit sloppy. And, I also have some concerns after the installation. But first, here are some photos.

    Here is the XV80.


    Here is the joint between the indoor coil and the furnace. (Notice the sealent)


    Here is a full view of the indoor coil. (Notice the burn mark & putty)


    Here is a full view of the compressor unit. The contractor quoted us with the XL15i. However, the unit might be too large to the liking of our HOA and next door neighbor. So, we decided to go with XR13 instead.


    Here is a view of the pipe & fuse box (?).


    Here are my questions..

    1. Right after the completion of the installation, I noticed that air leaks from the duct work joints, indoor coil, & even the furnace itself. I raised this concern with the contractor. He told me that air leak is common since the system is full of holes everywhere. He did apply more caulking here and there afterward. However, there are still plenty of air leak everywhere. So, should I be concern about this? Or, perhaps this is normal as stated by my contractor?

    2. If repair is necessary to address the air leak problem, is it ok for me to purchase some HVAC tape to do the job myself?

    3. What do you pro guys think about this installation?

    Anyways, sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance for your input.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    burlington county n.j.
    Posts
    9,743
    pictures taken to close to see a whole lot but from what i can see it does not look bad.

    any air leaks that concern you can be sealed with clear or silver silicone caulk, wont peel off like tape can.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    11,873
    I agree with ted .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,677
    looks like he sealed around the seams he replaced, if you want the rest of the system sealed it can be done for an extra fee(our company anyway) We have to seal all new connections we make, any other duct sealing requested we would add to our bid price.
    You can't fix stupid

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,677
    was the original unit sitting in front of the gas meter like this one, or is that an obstacle illusion?
    You can't fix stupid

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    11,873
    Quote Originally Posted by cmajerus View Post
    was the original unit sitting in front of the gas meter like this one, or is that an obstacle illusion?
    I'll bet it was. Looks like if you were to measure from the control box, to the meter,it would be right at 36".

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,597
    Scorches on wall and coil door= -10 pts.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    11,873
    Is it perfect...no, not exactly, few things in life are. Is it acceptable, yes, I think so. From what I can see, the mechanical integrity is there. OK we'll knock 10 points off for the scorch mark. It's happened to all of us at one time or another. Looking a little closer,I would move the disconnect switch from the coil area to a different location.
    Last edited by the dangling wrangler; 06-19-2008 at 07:50 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,371
    I looked up your match on ARI, and if your model numbers are what I think they are--TUD060R9V3 (furnace), H,TE47636 (coil), and 4TTR3030A1000A--then your system system is rated at 12.5 EER and 15.0 SEER (great numbers).

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    If the furnace is located in an unconditioned space, inspection failed due to single wall vent pipe.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    11,873
    Quote Originally Posted by mark beiser View Post
    If the furnace is located in an unconditioned space, inspection failed due to single wall vent pipe.
    Good eyes Mark,I totally missed that part. Wonder why somebody would cut corners on something so important?

  12. #12
    Many thanks for your input.

    Due to the lack of space issue, it's rather difficult to take a photo of the whole system with the duct work. Anyways, the photo below was taken before the work.

    The location of the furnace is in the basement. The temperature of the basement stays quite constant through out the year. Also, notice the duct tape on the shell of the indoor coil? For some reasons, I didn't notice any air leak with the old system.


    As for the compressor unit, it is somewhat larger than the one it replaced. However, the gas meter is still accessable & viewable as seen in the photo below. I guess we will have to see how the township react to it. I seriously hope they won't have any issue with the placement of the compressor.


    As for the model numbers, I found them after I digged through the paperworks. As stated before, I asked for this specific compressor & furnace combo. I didn't even know about the indoor coil until I saw the quote. Anyways, I hope this would be a solid and efficient combo. Well, I guess anything is better than our old 7 Seer, 64 AFUE, almost 25 years old system.

    Condenser: 2TTR3030A1
    Furnace: TUD080R9V3K
    Coil: TE47436C175B2922AP

    Anyways, I do understand nothing can be perfect. However, I just find it kind of strange that the brand new furnace & the indoor coil (not the original duct work) leak air from multiple spots when activated. The installer told me that air leak is unavoidable. I guess I just want to get a second opinion for his comment. Regardless, I'll head to my local big box store this weekend to pick up some sealant to reinforce the caulkings.

    At last, speaking of the vent pipe, is it suppose to be completely air tie to prevent the exhaust from entering the living space? I am not too certain about how the joint works. However, there are gaps on the joints. Is this something I should be worry about? Should I seal the gaps with something? Since I am planning to replace the 15yrs old water heater as well (maybe with a tankless version), should I wait till then? Anyways, many many thanks for all of your inputs.
    Last edited by Slackmeister; 06-20-2008 at 09:37 AM. Reason: photos

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    68,097
    Condenser still too close to the meter. Bet the condenser fan motor is not 36" from the meter.

    Look about average install.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

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