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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    2,504

    Trane Voyager Series

    Alright.....

    I need the lowdown on these new Trane Voyager Gaspacks.

    2 compressors, 2 stage gas heat, and a freakin reversing valve.......


    Who here has got some literature on these systems. Mainly and first off, I want to know the purpose of the reversing vavle thats staring at me. Why is it there and what does it do?

    I'm sure I'll come up with more questions later.

    I don't have any model/serial numbers at the moment. I will need to go back through my invoices to find it. Try to have em up here soon if anyone needs em.

    Its a 10 ton unit.
    I fully support the military and the War on Terrorism.


    If you don't know, then don't do. If you don't know and still do, then be prepared to pay someone else a lot to undo what you did and then do it right.

    If you do know, then do. But do it right. Otherwise, you may not be doing it long.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    2,876
    A dual fuel Voyager????
    I need a new signature.....

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    2,504
    Quote Originally Posted by I_bend_metal View Post
    A dual fuel Voyager????
    I don't think so.

    If I heard our other tech right.....it was running in cool and then the valve switched. I don't know. Maybe a way to control supply temp? Maybe a high pressure relief? I don't know.

    Thats what I want to know. We're having issues with the unit. And I'm bettin I'm up to bat next.
    I fully support the military and the War on Terrorism.


    If you don't know, then don't do. If you don't know and still do, then be prepared to pay someone else a lot to undo what you did and then do it right.

    If you do know, then do. But do it right. Otherwise, you may not be doing it long.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    517
    Dehumidification, reheat

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Mixing oil and fire with a big spoon.
    Posts
    4,529
    Quote Originally Posted by ej45 View Post
    Dehumidification, reheat
    yup. difficult to know which without the model numbers though.

    good luck.
    "If you pull one more stunt like you just pulled with Tommy, you won't have to get on a plane because I will personally kick your ass from here to Korea!" - Best of the Best

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    1,967
    Look close at that "reversing valve". If one of the refrigerant lines is real small (less 1/4") it is a unit with reheat for dehumidification. Look for an extra coil behind the evaporator coil that isn't as large as the evaporator to confirm reheat.

    If the RV "switched" in cooling mode, I'm pretty sure it is a reheat unit. It just turned on or off the reheat coil.
    If "I have always done it this way" is a good reason to do it again, how many times do I have to do something wrong - before it becomes right?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wichita, Ks
    Posts
    23
    I have work some these rtu itis dehumidification reheat, my co installed some on schools here. watch the check valve they will leak by.and over heat the rooms.
    kantech
    local 441

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    2,504
    Quote Originally Posted by cxagent View Post
    Look close at that "reversing valve". If one of the refrigerant lines is real small (less 1/4") it is a unit with reheat for dehumidification. Look for an extra coil behind the evaporator coil that isn't as large as the evaporator to confirm reheat.

    If the RV "switched" in cooling mode, I'm pretty sure it is a reheat unit. It just turned on or off the reheat coil.
    Ok. your right. There is a smaller third coil kinda surrounding the blower if ya know what I mean.

    so now my next question is what controls the reheat? How does this reheat cycle control the humidity? How can I be sure that this feature is properly working? What are the proper diagnostic methods to check a system with this?

    Also, what happens to pressures, SH, and SC when the system energizes the reheat valve?


    Remember this is all on a restaurant. So there. I don't know if that will affect the outcome of the responses.

    Thanks for any info. I'm sure I'm not the only one out there that has questions about these things. And I'm sure there will be more to come.
    I fully support the military and the War on Terrorism.


    If you don't know, then don't do. If you don't know and still do, then be prepared to pay someone else a lot to undo what you did and then do it right.

    If you do know, then do. But do it right. Otherwise, you may not be doing it long.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    1,967
    The reheat is enabled when the humidity in the space exceeds the humidity set point. The set point is a small blue potentiometer on one of the circuit boards.

    I don't think I have ever had to check the refrigerant on one of these units yet. I would assume the head pressure would be lower and subcooling would be a little higher in reheat mode. I would expect other parameters to be the same. I would raise the set point so the reheat shuts off and check the charge normally. Then you can force it into reheat mode by lowering the RH setpoint and see what the pressures do. It should go thru the reheat cycle if you jump the test terminals on the LVTB. I bet Trane has some info in the IOM manual.

    It control the humidity by keeping the evaporator coil cold so it keeps removing moisture from the supply air. The reheat coil warms the supply air back up so the space isn't too cold even with the cooling still on.
    If "I have always done it this way" is a good reason to do it again, how many times do I have to do something wrong - before it becomes right?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    2,504
    ok......

    so by removing charge from the main coil, it thus makes a colder coil to remove more moisture.

    also, the reheat coil is adding DRY heated air and keep the supply temp up and not too cold. This causes longer run times to remove moisture and also keeps the temp differnce at a minimum so the customers don't have 45* air blowing on them while they eat.

    Am I kinda on the right track? Now I see where I may be having another issue...


    So with a reheat coil, what would be the minimum requirements for the drain line? its gotta be able to handle all the extra water, right? I ask cause we got one that isn't quite draining right. And its the one that runs the most.
    I fully support the military and the War on Terrorism.


    If you don't know, then don't do. If you don't know and still do, then be prepared to pay someone else a lot to undo what you did and then do it right.

    If you do know, then do. But do it right. Otherwise, you may not be doing it long.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    1,967
    Quote Originally Posted by iraqveteran View Post
    ok......

    so by removing charge from the main coil, it thus makes a colder coil to remove more moisture.

    also, the reheat coil is adding DRY heated air and keep the supply temp up and not too cold. This causes longer run times to remove moisture and also keeps the temp differnce at a minimum so the customers don't have 45* air blowing on them while they eat.

    Am I kinda on the right track? Now I see where I may be having another issue...


    So with a reheat coil, what would be the minimum requirements for the drain line? its gotta be able to handle all the extra water, right? I ask cause we got one that isn't quite draining right. And its the one that runs the most.
    I think you are getting the right idea on most of this but not all.

    The reheat coil does not add or remove refrigerant as the unit is operating. It doesn't make the evaporator coil any colder than it would be without the reheat. Reheat ONLY keeps the unit running in A/C mode so the evaporator is continuing to remove the same amount of water it would without the reheat coil. If it helps, you could think that the reheat coil is like a small gas furnace just downstream of the evaporator. But nobody has to pay for a natural gas bill to operate this furnace.

    I may have confused you by saying the head pressure would be lower and sub cooling would be higher. My logic is the reheat coil is effectively a larger condenser coil. And since that part of the "condenser coil" is cooled by the cold air leaving the evaporator it should be a very effective condenser.

    As far as the 'extra' water - there isn't any 'extra'. It can only produce the same amount of condensate it would have produced when the A/C was running. The difference is the A/C keeps running without over cooling the space.
    If "I have always done it this way" is a good reason to do it again, how many times do I have to do something wrong - before it becomes right?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    12
    I have had some dealings with these units as well. I believe I have an IOM somewhere. Give me some time to find it.

    Ther is no real "extra" condensate, it sweats the same

    But, long story short, you are correct on the.........

    Dang cxagent, you type faster than I do....LOL

    so basically "yeah, what he said."

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    1,967
    I bet I don't type any faster - I just started earlier.
    If "I have always done it this way" is a good reason to do it again, how many times do I have to do something wrong - before it becomes right?

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