Last year we put in a new 3 zone radiant floor heating system, most of the work we did ourselves with the exception of the Bock 40BSCE water heater and oil tank. Of course when we started this oil was at $2.45 a gallon. The estimated heating requirement's need for our house was 73,000BTU's/Hour. We cool with two 10,000 BTU A/C units on each end of the house, one end it's a little to much while the other its just not enough by a small margin.
Our house is a 1800sq ft. split level ranch in Massachusetts. In the summer the cooling is only done on the first floor since the bottom floor only gets up to 71-72 when it's 98 degrees outside while the slab beneath our floor doesn't go past 63 degrees. In the winter the heating system has no problem with keeping the house warm at 73 degrees, the slab beneath the concrete floor doesn't drop below 50 degrees. Note; we didn't use the bottom half of the house so the temperature was kept lower during the second half of the winter since we were rebuilding the downstairs and not using it except for doing laundry.
This year will be our second full year in our new home. First year we used the electric baseboard heaters that were installed when they built the house in 1986. Second year and first full winter we used our new oil heating system. This year we will be using it again but will be greatly improving the insulation in the attic from a R-38 to a R-60 and sealing up around the windows and light fixtures in the house. Bought a thermal infrared temperature gauge and used it through out the house to find areas that needed to be addressed this summer. Last year we spray foamed the whole bottom half of our house during our reconstruction.
In the bottom half of the house we laid down a foam board insulation then added our radiant tubing and re-bar then added 3 inches of concrete on top of our concrete floor. Note; the temperature gauge is located beneath the 3 inches of concrete.
I see that in some soil locations that grout is added to the tubing to increase the heat transfer from the ground to the liquid in the tubing. I was wondering if our setup would be better since we are using 4 inches of concrete instead of grout to help assist in the temperature transformation.
We were wondering if it was at all possible to add geothermal to our house by using the Radiant tubing that we have installed in our concrete floor? We have a four manifold system with four loops of 300' each and was wondering if we could use three of them (900') to heat up the new geothermal system while connecting the other loop to one of the other zones (I know the 10% rule) and using it to help assist in warming up the concrete in turn helping to warm up the water temperature in the other loops so the system wouldn't have to work as long to heat up to the correct temperature.