Replyhttp://www.tjernlund.com/commercialInforcer.htm
maybe a cool building is making air fall down the chimney right now also
Regular Guest
What do you think the best solution for this is? I dont want to arbitrarily instal a make up air kit that dumps outside air into the boiler room. I would like to find a set up that connects directly to the boiler to control the ambient room temp. and corrects the draft issue.
Do you know if anyone makes such a unit to mount to a Viessmann boiler?
Professional Member
http://www.tjernlund.com/commercialInforcer.htm
maybe a cool building is making air fall down the chimney right now also
Regular Guest
Thanks for the reply, but this is in a residential aplication, and I dont want to flood the room, but rather feed the boiler directly.Originally Posted by Carnak
Professional Member
condensing boiler piece of cake, but yours goes up a chimney
here is the residential model, you set it to bring in how much air you need, it tempers the cold air with room air
http://www.tjernlund.com/combustionairintake.htm
it brings in air when the boiler fires and is off when the boiler is not firing
Professional Member
Hoyme out of Canmore Alberta makes a automatic vent damper that opens on a call for heat from the boiler. Once the damper is open, it triggers a end switch that allows the gas valve on the boiler to open. This system prevents cold outside air comming into the boiler room unless the boiler is on.
Professional Member*
The first thing you should do is contact a Viessmann contractor and have them research whether the company has an authorized "fix" for your problem. Manufacturers frown (will sometimes void the warranty) when an aftermarket appliance is added directly to their product.
As we don't have a radon problem in my area I haven't seen first hand what they do to deal with it, but I would think that pulling the entire structure into a negative would solve one problem while creating others as in your case.
Use the biggest hammer you like, pounding a square peg into a round hole does not equal a proper fit.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
Interesting. Creating a second problem to cover up the symtoms of the first problem.
AOP Committee/Professional Member*
Usuallly radon mitigation is subslab suction. If it is depressurizing the house, I would send them a certified letter return receipt and asking them what do THEY plan to do about the problem THEY caused. Most likely, all they have to do is find the leaks and seal the slab better. However, it does point out how sensitive this heater is so you will still need to determine the house depressurization limits through a Worst Case Depressurization Test and combustion analysis.
As previously noted, MUA kits attached directly to a unit may void the warranty just as placing the unit in a negative pressure zone will. If they do not have a listed MUA kit, then you must provide MUA into the CAZ as prescribed in the codes then repeat your testing to verify it works.
HTH,
Hearthman
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
Professional Member*
Turn off the radon mitigation system. The carbon monoxide from a back drafting appliance will KILL you way before you will ever need to worry about radon. Install a CO detector and get the venting/draft corrected ASAP.
Regular Guest
Call the radon mitigation co and find out what they say. From what I recall, the fans used in radon mitigation are not very powerful, especially compared with kitchen hood fans. The radon system is supposed to relieve pressure under the foundation slab, so unless your slab is very leaky, I find it hard to believe that you would get a bunch of negative pressure from just the radon fan. Typical installation of the radon system calls for sealing up most cracks, and sealing sump covers, etc to minimize this effect. Also, if they don't seal the sump covers, and larger cracks,the radon system will not work as well.
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