Does this sound right?
Im in a new house and i went outside and the condenser was a 48 (4 ton) and the a-coil was a 60 (5 ton). but saturday i ran into a problem it was like 90 out and i was trying to get it to 68 , and it was freezing up so i let it melt and set it to about 74 and it made temp, sunday it was fine. then today it jumped up to like 94 and i had them set to to 74(upstairs and downstairs) the downstairs was fine, but the upstairs got all the way to 80, which was making it freeze up again . My brother has his S1 (CT Heating,Piping & Cooling contractor license) but he was going to pennslyvania, so he couldnt get to me, i have a good idead when it comes to hvac, but i just dont know refrigerant stuff, so i called a buddy and he came over he said i was running at 130 and i was low, so he put in some r-22, hasnt froze since but upstairs got hot so it took awhile to make temp.
Now i know alot of people think because they have a/c that when it is 98 degerees out the feel they need to set their house to 58 degrees, they never know about the 20 degree differential.
But im just wonder is it usally normal to have a 5 ton a-coil and a 4 ton condensor
You are going to cold
You should never try and cool a house pass 71 to 72 because of the temperature differential called delta tee. If you set to low the coil will start to freeze and could contribute to low charge. How big is your house and why do you want it so cold. Not healthy, as for bigger coil not a problem as long as you don't over do it.
Do it right the first time.
Yea, its normal to have a larger rated indoor coil then teh outdoor unit is.
Have your brother fix the leak when he gets back.
there was no leak, it just needed a charge. ya i dont set it past 72. i knew it shouldnt freeze up if it was set to the proper temp diff that or it needed a charge, and i realized that it was set to 68 because when it gets to be late may i flip the t-stats to cool and forgot that i had them set for 68 for heat. but when checked the t-stat when it was freezing up, thats when i saw the 68. but then when i had set it to 73 then next day i knew i needed a charge.
when i use work in my dad's hvac business office (bookeeper/dispacth/estimates) we would get these people that called up when it was 95+ out and they would say my a/c isnt getting down to ( and it ranged from 55-65 degrees) and i would tell the equipment is not going to make your house a refrigerator its gonna take out the hot air and repleace it with cooler air but the systems cant make up a 30-40 degree diff, i told them to set them in the low 70's and then walk outside and walk back in, and you will feel the difference
Last edited by djcarrick84; 06-10-2008 at 01:58 PM.
Is this a new installation, that the installer didn't start up the unit and charge it right.
Then you dhould have gotten that contractor out to finnish his work.
If its an existing installation, and worked ok last year for the previous owner, but needed gas this year. Then it has a leak.
existing home. i dont think it is a leak, because i do know some installers wont charge it to begin with, because they want you to call them so they can bill you for the service call. and some wont charge it because they think if the air handler and condensor are close to each other they think there is enough freon in the condensor that they dont need to charge it when they put it in
and i think the previous owner only lived in it a few months and then moved back to california so who knows how they ran it or if they ran it, maybe it was freezing up on them ,maybe they didnt set it to temp that would make it freeze if it needed to be charged. i just dont know. but i know so far today there hasnt been any problems since it was charged yesterday and it is just as hot
Last edited by djcarrick84; 06-10-2008 at 05:01 PM.
Might have a leak
You might have a leak. did the service guy tell you how much refrigerant he put in. He should have done leak test. Usaully units are pre charged for 15 feet of line set and will work up 20' without any freezing occuring. If the shrader valves have plastic caps they should use lock tite on them due to contraction in winter time and sometimes refregerant leaks out of unit over winter.
Do it right the first time.
umm .... if the shrader is leaking ... I suggest replacing it . Those caps are to keep trash out , not to keep gas in .
Originally Posted by 21degrees
The only time you dont replace a leaky shrader is - when its late and time to head home , you're tired , hungry , and need a beer really bad
Doesn't have to be a leak big enough to leave it leak out enough to be effected in 1 day.
It most likely has a leak, and living in denial won't change that. Your saving money by not paying for a leak check.
Would have thought your brother would check it for free.
It does sound like you have a leak. The first step is admitting it!
that refrigerant had to go somewhere. it is a little odd having miss matched condensor coil and evap coil but it happens. Check the service valves right where the suction line and liquid line are attatched to the outdoor unit, if that outdoor unit was replaced or originally installed when the installer brazed it in he could of fried the packing gaskets therfore slowly leakin gas out of the caps
what is your reasoning behind your comments, whats the evap temp when supply is 54* and return is 70*
Originally Posted by 21degrees
1. i keep mine at 70* when i am home, 76* when i go to work
when its really hot outside after i cut the grass occasionally i will crank it to 68*
2. exactly what is not healthy about "SO COLD" (70 degrees)
Dont you listen to the news ? ?
Your Pump is gonna work harder , using energy , causing all kinds of ozone depletion , causing more global warming , which will stop plant growth in 10 - 30 years , then we starve , turning us into cannibals , and we eat each other until nobody is left .
That wont be healthy whatsoever