the model you gave, 060= 60,000 btu=5ton
Sorry - yesterday was the deadline for all complaints.
I went out this morning and actually checked the unit itself instead of the manual. The model # was 4a7a4048b1000aa. So it's a 4 ton correct due to the 48 meaning 48,000 btu's which equals a 4 ton system. I don't know if they just had they just gave me that manual on accident or what. Is it at all possible that they designed the house to keep the temp cooler? I have it a 76 degrees. This morning I have had two 1 minute run times, one 2 minute run time and one 3 minute run time. Times off have been 22,9, and 12 minutes. I know they are going to say the system is fine. I just don't think so. What can they do to help for longer run times? I have a 1 year warranty with the builder and I just want it to run like it should. My humidity has been 63-65% this morning. Temp outside is 79 with RH high at 83%. Any suggestions on what to do?
Yes, its a 4 ton.
Post the mod number of the ID unit. If its a VS blower, they may be able to slow it down.
If your on good terms with any of your neighbors with the same house design, and same size system, see if they have the same problems.
Write a letter to your builder. Keep a copy for yourself.
If you send a photo copy of your temp and humidity log with it, it will help.
At 79OD and a set point of 76 ID, I wouldn't expect it to have long run cycles. But longer then 2 minutes though.
I can't see a one or two minute run time affecting the thermostat so quickly, unless there is cold supply air being blown toward the thermostat. The unit isn't even hitting its stride with just one minute run time. How can the thermostat be reading a one degree drop in just one minute?
I would want the cycles per hour setting of the thermostat looked at as well as the possibility cold supply air is being blown toward the thermostat, or the hole in the wall behind the thermostat where the wires were poked through the drywall was not sealed before the thermostat was installed.
I agree the one minute run time is to quick. I have the fan on continously would it be better if it was turned off do you think? Thanks
Set the fan to auto, It will help keep your humidity down.
Thanks I also turned off my cooling droop function. Not cooling drop but cooling droop. I have been getting a little longer run times so far each one for the past 2 hours have been 11 minutes with about 14-16 minute off times. Does this sound like a better cycle. Outside temp is baout 85 with cloudy conditions. Thanks Again everyone
Yes, those are better times.
I know you guys might not think I have a life but i'm doing nothing today but checking my cycle times. It's about 90 degrees outside right now and still partly cloudy and i'm up to about 15 minute run time 10-11 min off time. I also set the fan to auto and that seemed to help. At night time after dark what should I expect for run times? Would 5-8 minutes be ok or is that to low? Hy humidity is down to 54% now.
Shophound is on target, one minute is indicative of cold SA getting to the t-stat.
If you use dehumidifiers, that will result in even shorter cycles because a heavy latent load helps reduce the load so sensible temp doesn't drop as fast.
If your AH sets over a chamber, look for leaks behind the sheetrock coming down those walls into the chamber. Seen far too many Returning attic air that I had to fix.
However, outdoor or attic Return air leaks would load the AC & resilt in longer runtimes.
More insulation, radiant heat barriers & other things could help ncrease the off time before the next cycle.
Every t-stat should have an adjustable setpoint differential of several degrees. It should have half degree differential settings for fine tunning. There are a couple on the market. (Some have cycles per hour settings)
Always, before changing AC or heat pump equipment, do everything that is cost-effectivde to reduce the heat-gain heat-loss.
You will be able to use less tonnage & have much better control over humidity loaded air infiltration, etc.
Runtimes can be controlled & off cycle times will be increased, a win/win.
I say always have a 20" Wind Machine 3300 handy for air ciculation during the longer AC off times! (Far superior to other floor fans, at close to the same price.)
I have two of those fans, NO I don't sell them, but they will increase your comfort. Wal Mart has them here in SW WI.
I have not installed my little half-ton window unit yet this year 88-F Heat Index | windows open; it is 82-F & 78% relative humidity in here, with one set on low speed, I set here at the PC & am comforable.
Mold - possible; I burt my fingers of left hand & with carpal tunnel in both hands can't mess with the unit yet.
I have voice sofware that types for me, SLOW but did this mostly with right hand.
Last edited by udarrell; 06-07-2008 at 02:44 PM.
Reason: Clarify latent verses sensible load
In WI today, we have 81^F dew points. My a/c has not operated yet this year. My fan is "on". My basement is keeping my house 74^F. I had to fire-up my whole house dehumidifier after my basement hit +70%RH.
Day later, my basement is down to 50%RH, 69^F.
Extra a/c capacity is nice for those real hot days and having extra people in the house. Extra capacity is great for using t-stat set-up when the home is unoccupied. You will be able to cool the home down shortly before you return. This whole over-sized a/c discussion is over-stated.
A smaller a/c will always short cycle during evening and moderate heat. You are getting way to excited. Your fan should be in the "auto" fan mode. During windy weather with high outdoor dew points, your indoor humidity will be higher because more fresh air is entering your home. 55-60% RH for short periods is not a problem. Regardless the size of your a/c, you will not be able keep your home <50%RH without a whole house dehumdifier during evenings and wet cool weather. Check 90 pint per day dehus like Santa Fe/Ultra-Aire/Honeywell. They will keep your home <50%RH without any a/c operation. Chek my other posts for discussion. Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
I have a couple of questions. What is the AH. Is that the stat on the wall? Also what is a chamber is that the return inside the house? Also when you guys are talking about return airleaks in the attic. I need to go up there and check for leaks? I'm very new to all of this. Thank You guys for being patient and helping me out. As far as my stat is does not have a diffrence setting. For example if I have it set for 76 it will kick on when it hits 77 and kick off at 75. It will not allow me to adjust those numbers. I was wanting to buy a stat that would let me adjust it coming on at 78 and kicking off at 75 giving me a 3 degree diffrence. Do you guys know of any that will do that? Thanks
Ok guys I have check this thing the whole day. Siince I turned my fan to auto and turned off my cooling droop. The run times have been really consistent with 13-15 on with 11-12 off. My humididty was 53-54% most of the day. It has been really humid here today and the temp got up to 92 degrees. However it has been really windy as well with partyly cloudy skies. How do the run times sound now? What should I expect after dark? Under 10 minute run times with higher off times? Also could lowering my fan speed help? If you guys think so I will call my installer on monday and see if he can do that. Thanks Again for the help from all of you and this forum.