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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,513
    cut it flare both end and use a flare coupler
    this will work but it is tempory in most cases
    good luck

  2. #15
    Ok, I realize now I just need to get my post count up and apply for the Pro forums, apologies to the moderators.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    burlington county n.j.
    Posts
    9,709
    i have repaired 2 of them with flare couplings with 100% succes rate.

    try welding the old aluminum it will probably become weaker.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    Quote Originally Posted by the dangling wrangler View Post
    At one time , Trane offered a repair kit for this . I don't know of anybody that had any luck with them .
    They still do, it works very well if the instructions are followed.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    11,847
    Quote Originally Posted by mark beiser View Post
    They still do, it works very well if the instructions are followed.
    I , personally haven't used them . So , you're probably correct . It does help to read those pesky instructions .

  6. #19
    Is the Trane repair kit some type of an epoxy?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    in a house, Appomattox, Va.
    Posts
    3,255
    I've used one and it worked quite nicely.

    Was on a 20+ yr old GE. NO charge when I got there. Sat for severalweeks until they could get the money.

    Put acid away, filter dryer and put the fitting in there. Far as I know, its still running yr later.

    THis one the suction line to compressor wore through the bottom tube in condensor- fun to get at.
    Col 3:23


    questions asked, answers received, ignorance abated

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,513
    i use the repair kit once and a flare coupler is a lot simpler imo

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    11,847
    Quote Originally Posted by tinknocker service tech View Post
    i use the repair kit once and a flare coupler is a lot simpler imo
    If I remember correctly , don't you still need a torch for that kit ? Yes , a flare would be easier .

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    N.Y.C.
    Posts
    27
    i stand corrected, i should have asked where the crack was. if its not on a bend, then i guess flares should work, however, i would not feel 100% comfortable with the reliability.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    11,847
    Quote Originally Posted by fmla View Post
    i stand corrected, i should have asked where the crack was. if its not on a bend, then i guess flares should work, however, i would not feel 100% comfortable with the reliability.
    Why ?

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,513
    Quote Originally Posted by the dangling wrangler View Post
    If I remember correctly , don't you still need a torch for that kit ? Yes , a flare would be easier .
    yea it is a flare on one end and a swag on the other that you braze to the coper and flare to the aluminum

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    Quote Originally Posted by sebastian haff View Post
    Is the Trane repair kit some type of an epoxy?
    No, it is an extra deep insertion compression union made out of fairly high grade aluminum.

    For cracks in the tubing, just the compression union is used.
    The kit also has a stub of hard copper that is used if repairing a leak at one of the transition joints. Cut the transition joint out, braze the stub of hard copper to the copper tubing in the unit, then use the compression union to join the aluminum tubing and copper stub.

    There is also some gray putty wrap stuff in the kit that you are supposed to wrap around the compression union to keep water off of it.

    The instructions detail how to prepare the aluminum tubing, and correctly tighten the compression union.

    I wouldn't advise using a flare union as someone else advised. The tubing in spine fin coils is rifled, so if you flare it, the sealing surface won't be smooth.
    A normal plumbing compression union would make a greatly inferior seal than the union in the kit from Trane, a hydraulic parts supplier may have something comparable to it though.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

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