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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    temecula, ca.
    Posts
    9

    Ruud mod install pic

    PVC doesn't look good to me. Manual says pipe must be vertical for 18" before any elbows are put on and that it must be 3" from the coupling at the furnace.
    They'll be back anyways as furnace wouldn't fire. He traced it back to green wire on the harness going to the ingniter board. Funny thing, it was tripping one of the low voltage fuses.
    Any thoughts?
    thanks
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    34,617
    Shouldn't have the 2x3 reducer in a horizontal run, will trap moisture. Should be in the vertical right off the furnace. We've never had a problem with an elbow right at the outlet of the furnace. Like in this case, if you went 18", could have an issue with enough rise on your horizontal run to outside. Sometimes you have no choice. Doesn't look like the greatest workmanship to me.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,805
    Could be neater.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    1,369
    Looks like a hack job.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas,NV
    Posts
    749
    Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but why does is look like the intake and the exhaust pipe in the pic on the right tie together into a Y? There must be something else I am missing here.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    201
    Concentric vent or some other way to spell it. Works well use them all the time.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,805
    Because its a concentric vent. Its 2 pipes, one inside the other.

    The exhaust travels through a pipe in the middle, and the fresh air is pulled around that pipe.
    One penetration though the wall.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas,NV
    Posts
    749
    Thanks guys for explaining that one, I just did some quick reaserch on that and found a cutaway picture of one. I dont see to many furnaces here over 80%, and the few 90+ models that I have seen, always have the two pipe setup through the roof.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    68,805
    A concentric through the roof works nice too.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    80
    Correct me if I'm wrong or if Rheem has changed their installation specs. but isn't the combustion air supposed to have a condensation and p-trap in it? Used to when I installed them. But its been a few years.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    1,744
    Don't see a drip leg on the gas either.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    media,pa
    Posts
    80
    rheem does not use that method,the pipes need to slop back to the unit.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    temecula, ca.
    Posts
    9
    he came back this morning. tried swapping out both boards and it still blew the same low voltage fuse. traced it to the supply air sensor. the whole unit including the plenum is grounded when unplugged from the power outlet. so, he put rubber insulation where the sensor touches the plenum. stopped the fuse blowing. furnace fired right up. clouds of smoke in the house. luckily the heat wave is over. all the windows are open now.
    He's coming back tomorrow to fix the PVC, fix a few minor air leaks in the ducting, write down all the system and charge settings and program the thermostat.
    Anything i should ask or look out for?
    thanks

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