Aspen or Lennox OEM Coil?
A few posters on another thread brought up the idea of requesting the installer of my new hybrid system to change out the quoted ASPEN coil for a Lennox OEM one. The system is set to be installed at the end of the month.
Here are the ARI #'s of the two coils for comparison.
ASPEN C(A,C,D,E)60D44+TDR G60UHV* 47000 12.75 17.50 44000 8.65 10000
Lennox OEM CX34-49+TDR G60UHV-60C-110* 46500 12.50 16.85 44000 8.50 26200
How good are Lennox coils versus ASPEN ones? The ASPEN has better performance ratings.
I thought I would open it up for feedback from all that have ASPEN coils (Any brand A/C or Heat pump) Do it or not? The cost is zero.
The aspen coils have a metal pan, which I do not like, I prefer a plastic because the metal will rot out eventually. This is the only thing. They may have a better coating than has been used in the past though, but this may be something to ask about. The lennox uses a plastic pan. I believe aspen is the only a coil that still uses metal pans???
I have an Aspen coil coil on my Lennox HS-21 2-speed system and it works great. I have used Aspen coils for years with great results.
I am not using them right now because I really like the new Bryant coils. I beleive the Aspen coils use a stainless steel drain pans with a lifetime warranty or at least they did everal years back.
I would recommend you go with the Aspen over the Lennox.
How often does your OD temp get close to 17*.
Doesn't the Lennox have a better heat BTU at lower OD temps.
Keep in mind, that if it has a higher BTU output at lower temps. Even though it may not have as high of an efficiency rating, it won't need to bring on the expensive aux heat as soon. So it could save you more money.
ARI does not require the 17° rating so Aspen doesn't provide it. The 10,000 they give is meaningless.
Which means, no way to know which will give the lower balance point.
Originally Posted by BaldLoonie
Then ARI shouldn't publish the "10,000" btu data in their book since I (and I am sure many others) used it to make a supposedly "informed" decision.
How is one to know that the other numbers in the ARI book are real? Why not leave the low btu field blank versus put some indiscriminant number that ASPEN or ARI made up.
If you don't know the real low btu number, how do you decide what temp to switch over from HP to gas heat?
We've had a few issues with those coils and the metal pan. We're used to plastic pans molded to hold virtually no water. The Aspen pan holds a considerable amount and we've found we need to prop up the coil in back so it slopes toward the drain or in downflow, the air pushes some of this water out of the pan. Not an issue in upflow.