Am Standard Knockouts-What the???

[viceman]

Here is step by step by step instructions

1. Find edge opposite tab.

2. Put flat tip of 6-way on edge opposite tab.

3. Pound 6-way with palm.

4. When pain in palm becomes unbearable, curse.

5. Start pounding 6-way with chanel locks.

6. Keep pounding until surrounding sheetmetal becomes distorted.
(note: be sure to keep knockout intact.)

7. Curse

8. Dig through 5 gallon bucket for Uni Bit.

9. insert bit into cordless drill.

10. Center bit on knock out and start drilling.

11. Re-center bit and try again.

12. Re-center bit and try again.

13. Dig through bucket fot 1/4" drill bit.

14. Replace dull Uni-Bit with less dull 1/4" drill bit.

15. Drill pilot hole with 1/4" drill bit.

16. Replace drill bit with Uni-Bit.

17. Begin drilling out knock out until battery dies half way through.

18. Walk outside to condensor where your tooless helper has taken the other battery.

19. Yell at worthless helper. (optional but highly recomended).

20. Finish drilling out knockout.

21. Pick searing metal shavings out of back of hand.

22. Put ruined 6-way back in bucket. Reserve for future torture.

Very simple. I have been using this method for years.

[BagsOfFlex]

Here is step by step by step instructions

1. Find edge opposite tab.

2. Put flat tip of 6-way on edge opposite tab.

3. Pound 6-way with palm.

4. When pain in palm becomes unbearable, curse.

5. Start pounding 6-way with chanel locks.

6. Keep pounding until surrounding sheetmetal becomes distorted.
(note: be sure to keep knockout intact.)

7. Curse

8. Dig through 5 gallon bucket for Uni Bit.

9. insert bit into cordless drill.

10. Center bit on knock out and start drilling.

11. Re-center bit and try again.

12. Re-center bit and try again.

13. Dig through bucket fot 1/4" drill bit.

14. Replace dull Uni-Bit with less dull 1/4" drill bit.

15. Drill pilot hole with 1/4" drill bit.

16. Replace drill bit with Uni-Bit.

17. Begin drilling out knock out until battery dies half way through.

18. Walk outside to condensor where your tooless helper has taken the other battery.

19. Yell at worthless helper. (optional but highly recomended).

20. Finish drilling out knockout.

21. Pick searing metal shavings out of back of hand.

22. Put ruined 6-way back in bucket. Reserve for future torture.

Very simple. I have been using this method for years.

That's good stuff right there. I've been in your shoes.

[ACFIXR]

I asked a factory rep once about the knockouts and his reply was; they are required by (ASTME?) to require a certain amount of force for removal. The following is a smart ass comment intended to generate some humor ..............Maybe their reasoning is that If you can't cleanly remove a knockout you shouldn't be installing any equipment.This would be a great test for new install hires!

[Random]

The knockouts in the bottom of the York sunlines I installed a ways back were the worst I've seen. I beat the first one out, drilled the rest.

[billygoat22]

Trane's a/hs used to have the embossed k/os, then they went to the opposite end spectrum w/ k/os that fell out if you pushed them too hard.

now the new a/hs have a recess in the plastic that only accepts some romex connectors.

I've use both unibits and punches for the k/o holes on equipment.

[EugeneTheJeep]

Maybe the dies that the manufacturers are using to punch them out are worn?

[joemach]

I think this problem is prevalent throughout the industry. I assume it is some code. Never checked on that.

I wish they didn't put the knockouts in at all. I have resigned myself to using my 1/2" or 3/4" hole drill or unibit. The dimples they make actually get in my way.

Before I install the air handler or furnace I figure where I need the hole and pre-drill before I put it in the attic.

It is not so bad once you realize that it is what it is and accept the fact that your drill does have a purpose.

[timjimbob]

I wonder about the mentality of Trane engineers that have the CU plastic bottom pans secured to the pallets. You need a wood chisel to cut theese loose. I already have a problem with three different types of screws holding their AHU together, all 5/16" hex head.

[billygoat22]

I just cut tabs w/sawzall or lift edge pallet slightly and stomp on board by tab, pulls staple out.

[timjimbob]

Need to keep a sawzall on the truck

[ACFIXR]

I just cut tabs w/sawzall or lift edge pallet slightly and stomp on board by tab, pulls staple out.

x2

[VTP99]

I just cut tabs w/sawzall or lift edge pallet slightly and stomp on board by tab, pulls staple out.

I leave the tabs then screw them to the pad.

[r-290]

Yes all the tabs are a bugger. After like the second install and, you have not started knocking them out before hand (10 times easier) there not much more we can do but have you try to get them out just one more time after the unit is in place. The school of hard knocks is a great teacher.

I had one that after a few good whacks was not moving, and I use large punch too. I just got the uni bit out and made my own hole. Sometimes I mess up and knock out both sides. last think you want is trying to get them out after installing the furnace in a closet

[ACFIXR]

Moral of the stories: don't use the knockouts, drill your own hole.
Carry plenty of romex connectors and washers.

[Snapperhead]

Thats a badass bit

[lions_lair]

I leave the tabs then screw them to the pad.

^^this^^

[woodbury]

When they set up the press to punch the knockouts they go conservative for their own protection because if they set them too aggressive then they risk completely punching out a knockout which will get rejected on assembly inspection and cause the punch operator to be reprimanded.