ReplyThe troubleshooting guide says to check if the high limit switch is open.
Professional Member
Replaced thermopyle and millivolt gas valve. The thermostat, limit switch, and wiring test good. Wiring is correct, per wiring diagram and identical working fryer beside it. Hold valve in for up to a few minutes, pilot won't stay lit. It goes out as soon as stop holding in valve. Pilot looks good while holding it in. Voltage from thermopyle at valve goes up to .7+ volts after about a minute. Identical working fryer next to it shows around .5 volts at valve and works with no problems. The valve and thermopyle are brand new. Is my new gas valve possibly bad? How can I check this?
The fryer is a Pitco Frialator model 35C+s serial G05CB008410. Its been converted to natural. The gas valve is a 60125201-C
Help!
The more you know, the more you realize how much you don't know.
Professional Member*
The troubleshooting guide says to check if the high limit switch is open.
With your chrome heart shining in the sun, long may you run.
Professional Member
Hi limit switch is closed and the wires going to it test good for continuity.
The more you know, the more you realize how much you don't know.
Professional Member
All I can suggest is to return there - with another NEW valve in hand, then double-check that wiring again per the diagram. Also do some comparative resistance tests on the valves (no wires attached). If your wiring is correct, wire crimps are good, hi-limit is good - then it's possible that your new valve IS bad.
I once put myself through all that on a Vulcan fryer (also a Honeywell valve I think), only to find out I'd installed some wires reversed somewhere (I can't remember which ones) and THAT was my problem all along.
That's especially aggravating since those circuits are so simple.
Regular Guest
If everything you say is correct , then i say a bad valve . Double check everything again though.Originally Posted by JumpSteady
Is there a time you could go there when there not operating ? if so , you said theres an identicial fryer beside it , then swap part out from it to try.
Professional Member*
There are only 4 parts there: the valve, the thermopile, the high limit, and the ECO lead wire (the leads and the fitting that slips between the thermopile and the magnet on the valve -- I think pitco calls it the high limit wire). I would look more closely at that fitting and the limit switch since you replaced the other two.
Edit:
Nevermind about the fitting - looks like that one uses a honeywell valve? I'm used to seeing the RS valves on Pitco.
Professional Member*
Check or replace all electrical connections, dirty or poor connections on a MV system will cause this. Test the valve with a flashlight battery.
ckartson
I didn't write the book I just read it!
Professional Member
I don't know if you have Honeywell's older, four terminal valve or their newer, three terminal one:
https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US...=VS820M1309/U#
In either case...here's a FWIW. Page 3 are wiring diagrams. Page 6 is troubleshooting:
https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...0s/95-6994.pdf
Sometimes even the simple stuff can have us on a wild goose chase. Been there. Done that.
Professional Member
Thanks for the support everyone. I'm gonna go over the wiring one more time, maybe replace the wires b4 I pull the valve and see if I can return it for another valve.
Regular Guest
>Voltage from thermopyle at valve goes up to .7+ volts after about a minute
There's your problem- it shows there is no load on the thermopile, as you see on your other fryer showing the expected 500 mv.
Jump/remove/eliminate the high limit, temporarily of course, test again. Isolate safety solenoid from everything, measure continuity to ground, should be very low, def not open, compare with other fryer next to it. If the safety solenoid has proper continuity, it's ok, as far a loading up the thermopile (passing gas is not relevant at this point).
Have to ask: are you sure the replaced gas valve is millivolt operator, not 24/120?
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