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Thread: humidity

  1. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    dalton ga
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    39

    Humidity

    yes i know humidity. im not tring to be funny or a know all. im not. i just know what i know

  2. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    dalton ga
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    39
    Quote Originally Posted by KirtusJon View Post
    ??? When an a/c condenser shuts down and the fan is in auto, is there moisture on the coil or in drain pan??? If so, when the fan is on and condeser off, the moisture will start to evaperate back in to the air because of the air coming back to unit will be higher in temp than the air that left the moisture when it left the coil. And what does my name have to do with anything here? If you don't agree with me thats fine. It does not effect me in anyway.
    you are right.i am sorry. what i say is just a opinion? i know i am not always right...

  3. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    dalton ga
    Posts
    39

    Humidity

    we are talking about more than i thing. i am so sorry for combing to many things...

  4. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    dalton ga
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    39
    Quote Originally Posted by Rookie2dafield View Post
    Are you trying to get pro member ship with all these post in one thread
    Sq. Footage has little to do with tonage in humid climates.

    you can not tell if his AC is oversized by info he has stated. there could be a number of issues.
    i am sorry. i was only trying to help

  5. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    dalton ga
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    Quote Originally Posted by KirtusJon View Post
    I am further south of you, and sell the Nordyne 410a VS 14 seer or higher. I very rarely sell 13 seer units anymore. You are right about the dehumidistat to the control board. That 45% humidity is sweet!!! They think you are a hero.
    i sell tempstar eq. and nordyne. ie tappen, gibson, maytag, frigidare, ect...air quest, heil,comf, maker.....eq. is as good as it is installed. i will not be on this site anymore. i am only tryin to help.. but i just get ----you dont know what your talking about.--- im sorry, but i do. im only trying to help.. but no more!!!

  6. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Central, FL
    Posts
    871

    Ahu Model # Please

    You have a Carrier which is great, I need the ahu (indoor unit) model number.
    If you do have a Variable speed motor, then you need to add a thermidistat which will need a extra wire to run to the DEHUM terminal at the top of the board. This will give you superb dehumidification control, you will notice a great diffrence.
    WARNING:IF YOU DON'T KNOW THEN DON'T DO, SO THOSE WHO KNOW WHAT YOU DIDN'T KNOW DON'T END UP UNDOING WHAT YOU DID SO IT COULD GET DONE RIGHT!

  7. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    153
    Quote Originally Posted by NGHTYRTE View Post
    i sell tempstar eq. and nordyne. ie tappen, gibson, maytag, frigidare, ect...air quest, heil,comf, maker.....eq. is as good as it is installed. i will not be on this site anymore. i am only tryin to help.. but i just get ----you dont know what your talking about.--- im sorry, but i do. im only trying to help.. but no more!!!


    Was reponding to Ac Doc on VS air handlers. You should not leave this site just because we do not agree on something. The whole point of this form is to LEARN to GET or GIVE ADVICE/OPINIONS It should not be personal. I hope you reconsider leaving this site and you are welcome to disagree with me anytime.
    Too Few Pro Tech's & Too Many Parts Changer's.

  8. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Central, FL
    Posts
    871
    Quote Originally Posted by NGHTYRTE View Post
    i sell tempstar eq. and nordyne. ie tappen, gibson, maytag, frigidare, ect...air quest, heil,comf, maker.....eq. is as good as it is installed. i will not be on this site anymore. i am only tryin to help.. but i just get ----you dont know what your talking about.--- im sorry, but i do. im only trying to help.. but no more!!!
    Don't sweat it, we are all here to share are views,knowledge, & technical opinions. Stick around we can all learn a lot from each other, don't mind the guys giving you a hard time in here they mean well,even if they behave like pricks sometimes!.
    WARNING:IF YOU DON'T KNOW THEN DON'T DO, SO THOSE WHO KNOW WHAT YOU DIDN'T KNOW DON'T END UP UNDOING WHAT YOU DID SO IT COULD GET DONE RIGHT!

  9. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
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    67,584
    Quote Originally Posted by NGHTYRTE View Post
    i am sorry. i was only trying to help
    You keep forgeting that the moisture on the coil will re evaporator when the blower is on continuos run.
    Also, if the ductwork is installed in non conditioned space and leaks, OD high humidity air is pulled in quicker.

    Since you don't believe us. Ask a Tappan or ICP engineer.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  10. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
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    6,231
    Quote Originally Posted by AcDOCnTRAINIG View Post
    You have a Carrier which is great, I need the ahu (indoor unit) model number.
    If you do have a Variable speed motor, then you need to add a thermidistat which will need a extra wire to run to the DEHUM terminal at the top of the board. This will give you superb dehumidification control, you will notice a great diffrence.
    How does the unit give superb humidity control when there no cooling load and I need fresh air ventilation? 75 cfm of fresh and 4 occupant (no sensible and 4 lbs. per hour latent load). Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  11. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
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    11,271
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    How does the unit give superb humidity control when there no cooling load and I need fresh air ventilation? 75 cfm of fresh and 4 occupant (no sensible and 4 lbs. per hour latent load). Regards TB
    I understand your concern, TB. A few things to consider:

    • As you well state, there are days in green grass climates where the sensible load on a structure is reduced, but the latent is not. A home seeing a high latent load on these days is likely a house with considerable infiltration, therefore assuring by default a degree of air change per hour needed for fresh air dilution.
    • Internal heat generation within an occupied house during mild but humid days can be considerable, especially if the structure has acceptable insulation levels and thermal pane windows/doors (but is still a leaky structure due to other common leak points not yet addressed). This can be enough with mild outdoor ambients for the thermostat to initiate a cooling call.
    • Slowing the indoor blower speed shifts the latent/sensible ratio of the cooling coil. This can lead to increased dehumidification, due to the evaporator apparatus dew point (ADP) running further below return air dew point than it would if the blower speed was higher. Although there's also a greater difference in temperature between the return air and the ADP, which might indicate an increase in sensible capacity, the overall sensible capacity for the structure is less because the airflow is reduced. Air exchange in each room is reduced, but the air emerging from the supply grills has lower grains of moisture per pound, resulting in lower interior humidity levels over time.
    • A thermally tight structure will tend to run lower indoor humidity levels, unless ingress/egress traffic is considerable, interior humidity generation is significant (cooking, cleaning, laundry, etc.) whereby the indoor humidity levels may actually run higher. Internal humidity generation often carries sensible heat with it, for the primary source of this moisture is hot water and steam.
    • Modern quality digital thermostats often present tighter temperature control than the old mercury/bimetal stats ever could. Between deadband, cycles per hour, etc. my own VisionPro will cycle the a/c on days when outdoor ambients are above 75 degrees, which is the setpoint I maintain when the home is occupied. The system has no trouble maintaining ~50% RH. I have tightened up the house considerably, but it still leaks enough to assure a measure of fresh air changes per hour.
    There's many things to consider when assessing the latent and sensible load dynamics of a structure. Many new, tight homes would probably be best with whole house dehumidification systems with fresh air intake. Older, looser homes might do acceptably well with central a/c with dehumidifcation strategies and a fresh air intake ducted to the return employed (which would pressurize the home while the a/c operated, reducing infiltration). All homes would fare better if they were more thermally efficient. Our trend to date has been to apply more power and energy to the same problem, without reducing the impact of the problem; leaky, thermally inefficient building envelopes.

  12. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Central, FL
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    871
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    How does the unit give superb humidity control when there no cooling load and I need fresh air ventilation? 75 cfm of fresh and 4 occupant (no sensible and 4 lbs. per hour latent load). Regards TB
    I'm not sure if I understand your question but I will give it a shot, the thermidistat hook to the VSM control board will control the fan as well as condenser. If you set humidity to 50&#37; even if temp is satisfied, it will start compressor and run the VSM at very low speeds till it reaches set RH setting.
    Its very impresive feature that many tech don't know about, it really works great.

    For COMMERCIAL:
    Carrier has came up with a kit, hot gas reheat mode, it provides neutral air and subsequent dehumidification to the space. It has a hot gas bypass valve, with a reheat coil. The air flows threw the cold evap coil, then paas threw a second coil which re-heats the air futhermore removing more humidity from air. It works like a dream, only available now in pacakge unit, but i heard there is one on the works for a residential application.
    Last edited by AcDOCnTRAINING; 04-02-2008 at 02:35 PM.
    WARNING:IF YOU DON'T KNOW THEN DON'T DO, SO THOSE WHO KNOW WHAT YOU DIDN'T KNOW DON'T END UP UNDOING WHAT YOU DID SO IT COULD GET DONE RIGHT!

  13. #52
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Marco Island, Fl
    Posts
    729
    AC Doc,

    The themidistat will only allow the system to over cool up to 3 degrees.

    In low load conditions, it is better then nothing, but it does not compare to whole house de-humidification.

    I have a Themastor hooked into my Infinity system, and it works like a dream.

    Also,
    the operating cost to overcool/ use the a/c for dehumidification is far higher then a high efficiency de-humidifier.

    (Teddy, correct me if I am wrong) Thermastor has a 150 pt/day unit that draws under 7 amps at 120v. Thats pretty impressive.

    Also, the de-humidifiers allow for fresh air to be programmed and or turned on and off.

    With Thermidistat, I noticed some customers would complain of cold drafts when it was set for de-humidification.

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