Aprilaire Humidifier Mounted on Return is loud!

[roccol]

I had my Aprilaire Model 700 Humidifier Mounted on Return duct next to the furnace. Now I can her that sucker every time it is on. It is loud and annoying. The sounds just carries through the return duct all the way to my return grille. The return is about 20ft long. Rigid metal duct.

Besides having my humidifier moved back to the supply side, what are my options here?

[BaldLoonie]

Power hum doesn't do a lot on the return. Gotta have hot water going to it if you want to do anything. Otherwise, cool air and cool water doesn't humidity much. Also the little fan in the 700 is fighting your furnace blower for air. I sure don't know what would make it loud though.

[roccol]

I can hear it every time the valve kicks in. I can actually hear the initial water swoosh sound. As you stated, it doesn't even work very well. I am alwalys fighting with humidity in my house of wood. Maybe I should look into one of these TrueSteam units, are they quiet?

[beenthere]

Irs possible your return is slightly under sized, and transfers the noise better because of it.

Other then that, no reason for it to be louder on the return.

Don't know about the Honeywell steamers.

But the EWC AUto Flo steamers are quiet. And can be wired to add humidity weather or not the stat is calling for heat.

[roccol]

Irs possible your return is slightly under sized, and transfers the noise better because of it.

Other then that, no reason for it to be louder on the return.

Don't know about the Honeywell steamers.

But the EWC AUto Flo steamers are quiet. And can be wired to add humidity weather or not the stat is calling for heat.

It is possible. I am sure of it. But in this case it is not the cause. This thing just transmits the sound. I mean it makes no difference if I remove the huge media filter and leave that area open. The sound is the same. I'm fairly sure the blower speed needs to be lowered, but I don't think that is going to have much of an effect on on this humidifier.

"
Other then that, no reason for it to be louder on the return."

This is all new duct work. So I can not compare it to when it was on the supply side of the old duct work, though I never did recall hearing it through the vents. One thing is certain, this unit never really worked well for me. 30 - 35% humidity is the best I can ever hope for. I live in a older house.

[beenthere]

If you really want higher humidity in the house.

EWC Auto Flo steam humidifier. Install price is very salty, but they work!

[addamsmasher]

My guess is that you're return ductwork itsn't soundlined, that is, it doesn't have noise reducing insulation inside. I just ran into a call where I had a customer with the same complaint and I told him he needed to have his return ductwork soundlined. If you want to pay extra for annual maintenance then I agree with beenthere and go for the steam humidifier. However depending on how hard your water is you will need to descale your humidifier with a vinegar/water solution annually. Failure to do so will generate fault codes and pricey service calls.

[roccol]

You are correct it is not sound lined. I assume this would require disassembling the return duct, installing a liner and reassembling the return duct right? Sounds like a half of day of work and will be expensive to do so. I don't know why the HVAC guy did not offer it in the first place(upcharge). I do actually, he said he does not like using internal liners.

I have a water softening system in my house so scaling is not a big concern anymore. So I guess I am posed with the question of should I line my return duct, move the April Aire back to the Supply duct or purchase a new Honeywell steam humidifier and install on the supply side? Since my Aprilaire does not work at an acceptable level with cold water(never did on the supply side either). What do you think? Keep in mind I have all wood floors, lots of wainscoting and pine wood panels, etc. Thanks. My house is about 2800 sqft. The unit would be mounted on the first floor system which is about 2000 sqft. Thanks.

[Jay 41]

A/A 700 should be able to humidify up to 4,200 sq. ft. ,see www.aprilaire.com. As far as hearing "swoosh" of water, are you on a private well, or city water supply? Regarding only getting 30%-35% humidity, where is O.D. sensor located?, by drier vent or furnace ex., (something causing a false reading),. Also, what is your location?, I believe the auto-trac will not operate above 50-55 degrees, eventhough you may still be operating your furnace or H.P. Also power humidifier should be located on supply side w/hot water for maximum humidification, especially if your furnace is 90%+ efficient, and or house is new and tight, or funace is oversized, causing sort cycling. On that note, another way to get more humidity, is to wire the control to your EAC terminal instead of HUM terminal and run your fan continually.

[roccol]

A/A 700 should be able to humidify up to 4,200 sq. ft. ,see www.aprilaire.com. As far as hearing "swoosh" of water, are you on a private well, or city water supply?

City water. Correction Aprilaire model 760.

Regarding only getting 30%-35% humidity, where is O.D. sensor located?, by drier vent or furnace ex., (something causing a false reading),. Also, what is your location?

OD sensors are near outdoor condenser units. I am in Northern NJ. Sensonrs are on North/South part of house. No dryer vents.

I believe the auto-trac will not operate above 50-55 degrees, eventhough you may still be operating your furnace or H.P. Also power humidifier should be located on supply side w/hot water for maximum humidification, especially if your furnace is 90%+ efficient, and or house is new and tight, or funace is oversized, causing sort cycling. On that note, another way to get more humidity, is to wire the control to your EAC terminal instead of HUM terminal and run your fan continually.

It is 90% efficient a furnace. The house as mentioned previously is old and loose. Rooms that were remodeled are tight, but overall a lose drafty house.

So should I stick with what I have and just have it moved back to the supply side and add hot water? Or is there something for me to gain with a steam humidifier? I also fear that after moving the humidifier I will hear it on the supply side. I thought humidifiers worked best on returns.

Also can someone recommend the appropriate Honeywell TrueSteam Model. 2800 sqft house, old, drafty, lots of wood, Northern NJ. This is should I choose to have my humidifier replaced. Also will this work with a carrier Thermidistat?

Thanks for the help.

[Jay 41]

You said O.D. sensor is located by condensor unit(s),.Do you have more than 1 system in your house?

[beenthere]

I didn't look up your model Aprilaire. But the 700's 4100 sq ft house listing is for a tight house. You just said yours isn't.

A steam humidifier can add humidity weather your stat is calling for heat or not.
So I vote yes to the steam humidifier.

Again, I wouold recomend the EWC Auto Flo.
Every 8 hours, it flushes its self, to maintain its output.
The small one, the S2000 is listed at 16 gals a day.
The S2020, is 22 gals a day.
Both of them can add humidity to your house without the furnace being in a heat call.
The S2000, the smaller one, can add 5.48 lbs. of moisture to the air an hour.
The larger one, the S2020, can add 7.53 lbs. of moisture to the air an hour.

The Honeywell True Steam, comes in 3 sizes, 12, 9, and 6 gallon a day.
They can also add humidity without the furnace being in a heat call.
The largest True Steam can add 4.11 lbs. of moisture to the air an hour.

[beenthere]

Humifiers are sized to the infiltration rate of your house.
2800 sq ft, and drafty, doesn't tell us exactly what the infiltration rate is.

You need a contractor to come out to see if any of the True Steams can handle your house.

[roccol]

Thanks.