Currently they don't have an ECM upgrade for 120 volt applications.
Trane dealer came out today. I've known him for a good while. He suggested a Trane 2 speed scroll HP outdoor unit 4 ton with either my old Lennox Pulse or a new 90 Trane indoor unit. Will price it several ways.
1. Can I put a varible speed fan motor in the old Pulse? I forgot to ask him that.
2. He suggested Trane's air cleaner unit. Are there others I should investigate that are better?
3. He said the HP would fit in the space where my existing A/C unit is>no problem there. What would the electrical requirements generally be for a 4 ton HP unit?
4. He advised changing the line set lines with the newer refridgerent,which won't be a problem
5. He said my ductwork was done very well and probably way better than you would get today. I asked about cleaning the old ductwork and he said they had a duct cleaning machine.
6. What T-stat would be the best for the Trane unit?
Hybrid Heat ~ Carrier
Carrier 2~stage propane for back-up
Pure Air Filter system
Infinity 17.0 Heat Pump
Rebate would be 1200.00 on this system from Carrier and 24 months same as cash ..
"Everyday above ground, is a good day".
"But everyday that you have made a difference in someones life, may insure you stay above ground a little longer".<aircooled>
Echo, thought I would throw my two cents worth in since I am in Ga. as well
Built a house a little over a year ago 2400sqft ranch on full basement. We had a heat pump installed going with the Carrier Infinity system. This is just like if not the same system as the Bryant Evolution. One word describes it AMAZING. Never did I think that paying top dollar for a system would pay off so fast. The thermostat control is only the start for a system that when zoned measures the static air pressure in the duct and adjust the variable speed of the blower for the demand that is needed. Combine that with a two speed outdoor unit which rubs on low most of the time and you have a very efficient unit.
Your the same place as me. Inside temps 75 summer (removes so much humidity anything less is to cool) 70 in winter.
average $$$$ a month for 2007 $203.00 a month with mu highest being 282.00 in July. Remember the over 100 degree days. This is with two adults and two teens. My highest in winter was $214.00 Thats as much as Natural Gas alone in the winter.
I'll check with a Carrier dealer as well. The Bryant dealer around here I don't like. They throw the systems in, and are sloppy installers at that. I'd have to locate one of them a little further away.
Gohigh is your whole basement heated, with the same unit? Can you give me the specifics on your equipment? Air filtration as well.
My house is very well insulated,built as a passive solar. South side is the longest side(70ft) with bedrooms,living room on that side. 2 foot overhangs on the south wall. The south wall is 16 inches thick in the basement wall and 12 inches thick in the living room, and all bedroom, with stone on the wall. Laundry, kitchen, baths,on north side. It doesn't take too much heat to keep warm. The humidity in the summer is the killer as you well know. I need efficient A/C.Thanks for the replies and comments, David
Well I have the Carrier 5 ton Heat Pump. I have been actually trying to find out how it should have been sized as I am not sure if it was not over sized. We are looking into finishing another room and utilizing this system in it if it will take care of it. I think it will and more.
Our house is a ranch on a full basement that has not had any rooms finished.
The house faces east with 75' being east and 75' west. We also have 19 windows and two glass doors. The east and west sides both have a country porch which provide a lot of shade on some of those windows.
Me and my wife were the contractor so we made all the decision and made sure to pay a lot of attention to the HVAC and insulation. Having said that I did make them show me a sizing report at the time we selected the company.
The air handler is the FE4AND0060 with 4" pleated filter box. UV filter lights and a bypass humidifier. The entire system is all metal duct work insulated very well.
It's interesting though, when we were pricing the system the contractor was trying to steer me toward a zoning system. I declined based on budgeting because it would have added $4000.00 to the high price already. The duct work looks to actually be laid out in a four zone home-run scenario. The bottom of my floor looks like a commercial installation.
I will say we purchased this in June 2006 at that time it was 40% more than the next estimate. A lot of that was metal ducting vs flex hose I am sure.
I got the prices from the Trane/Amana dealer. He gave me a lot of different options(15 ways to go). Top one was 3 ton XL16i with Trane XV 95. His price includes digital thermostat,pad(which I don't need), new line set, high and low voltage wiring( which I wouldn't need) duct hookups, condensation removal(there's a drain by the old unit), sales tax & labor. He doesn't mention what thermostat, Trane "clean effects" extra,10 year extended labor warranty extra, ultra violet duct mounted germicidal filter extra. Just states Trane matching evaporator coil, all of the options are R-410A refriderant.
1. At what point as far as HP model XL16i,XL15i, XR 14, XR 13 would a variable speed furnace not matter much?
2. What I'm getting at is, if I decide to keep my old Pulse furnace with single speed blower(and heat exchanger tests ok again) would be the best HP unit to get?When would I be wasting money?
3. I need the best de-humidification and cooling option for my location. Heat on for only 4 months a year. So would I need a varible speed blower to achieve necessary de-humidification?
4. Using a Trane XR 90 on propane. Does this unit still vent thru PVC piping? Would it be efficient enough as my backup? Would I be better off with a cheaper unit and strip heat? Electric panel is right next the unit, so strip heat wiring would be 15 feet long. What is the cheapest unit with varible speed fan that I could use if all electric?
5. Do I need to know exactly what thermostat and evaporator coil as in the numbers for the specific product?
If your keeping your single speed blower, the XR13 is your best bang for the buck.
Don't think about using the 16i on a single speed blower.
15i usually has a better heat output then the 16i's
Any thing above a 13 SEER, (IMO) should have a VS blower if humidity is a concern.
The XR90 vents with PVC, and yes it can be converted to LP.
Weather LP or electric is a better aux heat, depends on your rates for both.
Usually electric is cheaper.
Thanks beenthere, so to get higher efficiency HP I will need to change the Pulse out bottom line. Is the XR90 a reliable unit?What unit would I need if I was going to use strip heat? hOw would it compare in price to the gas unit?
I have electric and gas water heaters hooked up right now. I use the one thats most beneficial at the time. Right now if I go all electric Ga Power will give me a $550 rebate on a Rheem Marathon, so that would be nice.
What is the deal with the Ultra violet duct mounted light? What does that accomplish exactly? I've never had a humidifier before, they always seemed nasty to me(legionaires disease in the making). Do you need one of those in the South? I guess next I will try the Bryant/Carrier dealer for an estimate.
For the most part. If you get a duel fuel system, you won't have the option of using electric strip heaters.
You would want an XV90. You need the VS blower for 2 stage HP.
UV light is to kill bacteria. How well it works is still somewhat up in the air.
If you didn't need a humidifier before, you shouldn't need one now.
Flo through humidifiers don't have as much risk of bacteria growth as the old sump ones did.
Five Star is a Florida thing.
Originally Posted by AcDOCnTRAINIG
CFAD ,Carrier Factory Authorized Dealer ,would be the name in GA.