ReplyLOL, When I first looked at this I was thinking that it was normal B Vent painted with that white stuff that salesman was selling on the other thread..
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"The hood acts as a power vent, right?"
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LOL, When I first looked at this I was thinking that it was normal B Vent painted with that white stuff that salesman was selling on the other thread..
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WTF am I looking at!~! jebus
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well lest they put a earthquake strap on it should be gtg
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first, that hood venter box is just a chase. i'd bet the hwt vent pipe parallels the venter hood pipe. to be actually vented by the hood it has to terminate under it.
did you actually see the end of the hwt vent pipe or are you assuming?
Nest is POO!!
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Aassuming
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(Not assuming)
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almost looks like 2 kids have their heads jammed between the wall and tank ???
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wow is that even legal..
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The T&P drain pipe is also not up to code. It's supposed to go straight down from the T&P and terminate between 3-6 inches from the floor.
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in Maine it passes provided all piping is the same size or bigger then the t&p valve fitting size
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It's supposed to go straight down from the T&P and terminate between 3-6 inches from the floor.
not in this case because it could cause severe injury to someone if it blew off as they were passing by or was in the room using the stove.
its on most all makers install manuals .
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6-12 inches off the ground here in canad
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First things I noticed was water heater in kitchen next to stove, nice touch, WTF, pile of clothes and cardboard next to water heater and then what appears to be PVC as vent pipe going to who knows where.
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WH must be in a metal pan to legal drainage or a wet alarm in pan with drain capped. The TPR discharge must terminate in a conspicuous place within 6" of the floor or a suitable drain with an air gap. Cannot reduce in diameter, go uphill, have valves, threaded end, etc. The OP has tossed this out without providing some decent information as to what the vent connector pipe is, what happens inside that chase, and how it terminates above the roof. FYI, IF that was B-vent and went through a listed wall firestop, it could conceivably legally vent this way if it connected to properly sized and installed B-vent and all that was blocked off from the range top with a 30" clearance above the range. The code does not require a range or oven to be exhausted. It can legally discharge 800ppm CO per ANSI. The vent connector would, however, have to be properly supported at that elbow in two planes and if that is paint, no it is not legal. The clothing is a fire hazard. This is butt ugly and stupid.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
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The venting is single-wall, it does use the hood as a chase but stops in the attic. And yes, it is painted.Originally Posted by hearthman
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They should have added a tee so they could have a pot filler for the stove right at the T&P valve!
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As I look, it looks like regular single wall metal pipe that's been painted. If so it fails on the termination alone. TP drop likely went straight down originally but people kept kicking it so they moved it. Copper flex on water line is a fail. The clothes and cardboard aren't a fire hazard, this tank isn't a flame safety burner so no bottom air intake. It's messy but it wouldn't ever catch fire.
"We always fix it right the second time".
All posts are strictly my opinions and not those of my employer. I cannot make statements on behalf of my employer.
All advice posted by me is for educational purposes only, HVAC repairs should only be conducted by trained & qualified people.
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Not in California, according to my Cali. plumber friends. I thought it was hack work, too, but it is required by their code.
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Doug, where do you think the air comes in with non-FVIR water heaters? Every one I've ever seen takes in air from the base, too. The difference is with a FVIR, there is a flame arrestor wire gauze covering the intake and some have a fusible link that drops a block-off plate in the event of sustained backdraft or flashback. I can't tell you how many WH's I've seen with flames spilling out of their bases as the gas ignites. Add to that a stated clearance to combustibles and mfrs. instructions not to block air intakes. If this was LP, it could really be more of a hazard should the WH suffer from a delayed ignition. If you have an aftermarket insulation blanket that has fallen down to the floor, run combustion analysis and you'll be shocked at the numbers. Also, by blocking the free flow of room air around the base of the tank you change the heat signature, which can lead to hot spots which can cause premature failure. I've seen it.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
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