Southbend r2 steamer

[gowitheflo]

I normally so domestic appliances but have been getting calls from area restaurants. I would like to get more into commercial equipment. I've been able to get information on most of the equipment. Southbend is supposed to be sending a tech. manual for this unit but I haven't seen it.

The customer said that the steamer is filling and draining at the same time. The drain valve is closing. It looks like there is a float inside that shuts the water off. If this is the case how does it do this? Any ideas as to what the problem could be. A summary on the operation of this unit would be helpful.

Thanks ,Gerald

[smurphy]

Sounds like it needs a cleaning, is there a lot of scale build up. You may need to descale it. take the dump valve apart and clean it to.

[gowitheflo]

Yea ,there is a lot of scale build up. I'll try cleaning it.

Thanks ,Gerald

[ravenrepairllc]

If you goto Southbends website you can look up units by serial number and there are tech manuals on line secondly this unit has a condensate valve that is on with the timer so it can can drain and fill at the same time if the timer is on

[jorogas]

If you goto Southbends website you can look up units by serial number and there are tech manuals on line secondly this unit has a condensate valve that is on with the timer so it can can drain and fill at the same time if the timer is on

The condensate valve shoots cold water into the drain otherwise the steam pressure will block up the drain. When your condensate\quench valve isnt working you will have major steam leaking around door gasket.

[jetjock50]

Does this one have the sightglass for checking the water level. If it is continually filling the sight glass full (or boiler)and overfilling, check the float switch to see if it is sending power to the water solenoid, if it not, then you have a sticking water solenoid. If, it is then you have a defective or dirty float assembly . You can try cleaning the float , or replace if needed. Also, the unit does mix cold water with the steam condensate as stated by others to cool the run off into the drains when the unit is on.

[ar4s1]

You didn't mention what type of material the drain line was constructed of. My CFESA training taught me that PVC drains, even outside a steamer is a big no-no. Even with the quench the PVC can warm up and sag causing a trap. Always use copper. If copper was used, make sure that the installer didn't inadvertantly run the line with a low point (trap) somewhere in the middle of the run or use too many direction changes. I once had a call where a guy had run his drain around a wall instead of through it which was possible. If the drain has an air gap make sure it's sufficient enough to create a venturi effect.

[H-Tech]

the float inside the metal tube is low water shutoff and the one on right brings heat on and shuts down water if limed up bad and not free sliding up and down unit won't function properly

[hillbilly in tenn]

i have several of these units in my schools. i had one doing this and it was one of the relays. just another thought, but it sounds like scale build up may be your problem.