Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 61 to 68 of 68

Thread: New Carrier Unit; Nothing but Problems

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    18951
    Posts
    1,593
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by pkinger76 View Post
    You need to install ductless split air conditioner, they are lot easy to install and energy efficient, whisper quiet operation.

    To view few of these, visit <deleted>
    Did you read the site rules? I think that 2 posts with links to your web site might possibly come under rule #4. "Advertising of Web Sites and Products is not accepted on this site - so don't do it. It will be deleted. If you would like to purchase advertising space, please contact."
    Last edited by jrbenny; 03-03-2008 at 06:38 AM.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Dixie
    Posts
    40
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by bobb25 View Post
    Did you read the site rules? I think that 2 posts with links to your web site might possibly come under rule #4. "Advertising of Web Sites and Products is not accepted on this site - so don't do it. It will be deleted. If you would like to purchase advertising space, please contact HVAC.Talk@gmail.com"
    Ductless splits are NOT a great idea for home applications. For one they are hanging on the wall or the ceiling, they have filtration issues and if the condensate pump backs up (if one is even installed) it damagings the living area.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Dixie
    Posts
    40
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by vet View Post
    I lived in Houston from 1980 to 2005 and I also worked as an A/C Tech for those years, heat pumps are not usually used since for the most part you may only get a month of cold weather and not in a row. A 3.5-ton is about right for that size house; most people don’t realize how hot and humid it really is there. Spring starts in March till April then its summer until November, then its fall and a mild winter until Feb, if you go with a smaller system your unit would most likely run most of the time. If anything ,you need to over size just a little and invest in a good dehumidifier, look for those that have never lived there. Its 6 am. And you walk out side and the heat just takes your breath away, you walk 20 ft. to your van and your sweating bullets' the sun hasn’t even came out yet. I put a 3.5 ton on my 1100 sq. ft house and a Lennox dehumidifier and it cooled and cycled just fine, you do realize they have the highest rate of electricity down there? Our bills would run from 80.00 to 300.00 a month with all electric house. Maybe you have a draft problem, stat location to direct sun etc, I don’t think it’s your unit but have some one look at some other reasons as well.
    I agree that the condensing unit might be the right size. Adding a good dehumidifier is a great idea because it reduces the required capacity of the condensing unit. By removing the humidity from the air you can raise your thermostat set point temperature from say 75 to say 78 and still be very compfortable without being clammy. I disagree completely that one should oversize a condensing unit however. This violates rule #1 in engineering and will lead to the compressor cycling on and off and an elevation in humidity level. Remember, the thermostat is a sensible temperature detector only and once the T-stat senses that the room temperature is with in 1 degree of set point it will signal the condensing unit to shut off. The T-stat does not measure humidity. For proper dehumidification the condensing unit must be on longer to dry out the air. Temperature is satisified much quicker than dehumidification. This is an often overlooked thermodynamic condition, especially in school designs. I am sure everyone reading this blog has been in a room that is cold and clammy...a direct result of the condensing unit shutting off before it has a chance to dehumidify the air. Solution is a dehumidifier, a better solution is hotgas bypass, best solution is an APR valve ($$). But never oversize a condensing unit in increases cycle time and wear and tear on the compressor leading to premature compressor failure ($$$$$).
    Amen.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Houston Texas
    Posts
    6,374
    Post Likes
    Quote Originally Posted by navair86 View Post
    I agree that the condensing unit might be the right size. Adding a good dehumidifier is a great idea because it reduces the required capacity of the condensing unit. By removing the humidity from the air you can raise your thermostat set point temperature from say 75 to say 78 and still be very compfortable without being clammy. I disagree completely that one should oversize a condensing unit however. This violates rule #1 in engineering and will lead to the compressor cycling on and off and an elevation in humidity level. Remember, the thermostat is a sensible temperature detector only and once the T-stat senses that the room temperature is with in 1 degree of set point it will signal the condensing unit to shut off. The T-stat does not measure humidity. For proper dehumidification the condensing unit must be on longer to dry out the air. Temperature is satisified much quicker than dehumidification. This is an often overlooked thermodynamic condition, especially in school designs. I am sure everyone reading this blog has been in a room that is cold and clammy...a direct result of the condensing unit shutting off before it has a chance to dehumidify the air. Solution is a dehumidifier, a better solution is hotgas bypass, best solution is an APR valve ($$). But never oversize a condensing unit in increases cycle time and wear and tear on the compressor leading to premature compressor failure ($$$$$).
    Amen.
    While I agree with youyr statement in general there are designs that will contradict what you have said. That however is for another post in the pro's section.

    It also really does not relate to this thread because she has not used the A/C on this system yet. It was installed in November and her energy use issues have to do with a straight elcetric heat unit.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    80,602
    Post Likes
    [=bobb25;1779772]Did you read the site rules? I think that 2 posts with links to your web site might possibly come under rule #4. "Advertising of Web Sites and Products is not accepted on this site - so don't do it. It will be deleted. If you would like to purchase advertising space, please contact HVAC.Talk@gmail.com"[/QUOTE]

    You didn't have to repost his link.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Hell Hole Swamp
    Posts
    4,255
    Post Likes
    Look at his username compared to the web address

    spammer!

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    20
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    well now it is cold again (41) and the heat is back on (78). Classical, i will be calling you. i just need an honest opinion on whether it is me & DH(cold-natured) or if the system isn't right or something wasn't done right. I had someone come out over the weekend and caulk, weatherstrip, etc.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    20
    Post Likes
    Thread Starter
    classical,
    i just want to say thank you for checking things out for me. and thanks for the suggestions from everyone. my dh and i are both cold natured and i am sure that has something to do with it plus a few things like tile, etc., i just wanted to know that the unit was running correctly and what we could do to make things more comforable. i will be taking the advice you gave me and i will update.

    Thanks Again!

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Log-in

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •