classical, i have your cell number will call you tomorrow. we have company right now and i wouldn't be able to hear. they did come over and reset breakers so at least it is working. But i will call you tomorrow.
Thank you so much for your help thus far!
Let us know the outcome of your trouble.
I'll cross my fingers for you.
the hvac guy adjusted the ducts (air flow) last night and at least now we are only having to run it on 72(but it isn't real cold now but my husband and i are also very cold natured). i spoke to classical and explained alot of things to him and he suggested a few things. i will probably be calling him to come check a few things out in a couple of weeks. I believe he is also going to post something regarding this.
I wish i would have found this site before i went with the company i did as far as installation, etc. but you can't turn back time, you learn something new everyday.
I will update regarding this. And I sincerely appreciate the suggestions/advice everyone has given me here.
I just really wanted to say thanks!
Hot & cold
I lived in Houston from 1980 to 2005 and I also worked as an A/C Tech for those years, heat pumps are not usually used since for the most part you may only get a month of cold weather and not in a row. A 3.5-ton is about right for that size house; most people don’t realize how hot and humid it really is there. Spring starts in March till April then its summer until November, then its fall and a mild winter until Feb, if you go with a smaller system your unit would most likely run most of the time. If anything ,you need to over size just a little and invest in a good dehumidifier, look for those that have never lived there. Its 6 am. And you walk out side and the heat just takes your breath away, you walk 20 ft. to your van and your sweating bullets' the sun hasn’t even came out yet. I put a 3.5 ton on my 1100 sq. ft house and a Lennox dehumidifier and it cooled and cycled just fine, you do realize they have the highest rate of electricity down there? Our bills would run from 80.00 to 300.00 a month with all electric house. Maybe you have a draft problem, stat location to direct sun etc, I don’t think it’s your unit but have some one look at some other reasons as well.
OK here is what we discovered when I talked to Tamarya.
The system is R-410A and they did not replace the line set and I assure knowing this company they did not flush or pull a satisfactory or proper vacuum.
They installed four new ducts flex and seal of the ducts had the dampers closed in addition one tech closed off the supply registers.
There is a 20"X30" return grill mounted in an interior hall floor level; insufficient for a 3.5-ton unit but shouldn't really effect the heat.
They installing company has been out numerous times since Nov. and at least one time they sealed up some air leaks.
They use subs for installs many times with untrained illegal helpers picked up on the street corner. One of the installers told her he would come back on his own time and replace all of her ductwork for less than the company would charge. We suspect he may have closed off several ducts in the attic to provide impetus for replacing the ductwork.
The next to last tech out took one of the strips out of the circuit to extend run time because the system was short cycling. They have considerable floor space that is tile and the main living area has a vaulted ceiling.
I suggested she run the ceiling fan in reverse on low to move the heated air to the floor.
She was given a one year satisfaction guarantee and has the possible option of having the system removed and her money refunded.
Right now she is going to see how things work and will have me come out when it is warmer and evaluate the system.
American Reaming Service yep my guess also.
“Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards". -Vernon Law-
"Never let success go to your head, and never let failure go to your heart". - Unknown
"To face tragedy is the greatest challenge; to overcome tragedy is the greatest success" -Ranal Currie-
Bad T-Stat/ wiring
Mercury bulb thermostat, and they didn't change (yellow) wire from Y-A to bring fan on with electric heat and didn't set heat anticipator either.
Originally Posted by TamayraS
Need to check with different company like classical and have him do his magic , and BAM! You will have heat and smaller electric bills. Better thing of saving for heat pump though the way electric cost are going.
'Life begins with the journey each day'
mini split air conditioners
You need to install ductless split air conditioner, they are lot easy to install and energy efficient, whisper quiet operation.
To view few of these, visit my spammed website.
Last edited by jrbenny; 03-03-2008 at 07:39 AM.
Did you read the site rules? I think that 2 posts with links to your web site might possibly come under rule #4. "Advertising of Web Sites and Products is not accepted on this site - so don't do it. It will be deleted. If you would like to purchase advertising space, please contact."
Originally Posted by pkinger76
Last edited by jrbenny; 03-03-2008 at 07:38 AM.
Ductless splits are NOT a great idea for home applications. For one they are hanging on the wall or the ceiling, they have filtration issues and if the condensate pump backs up (if one is even installed) it damagings the living area.
Originally Posted by bobb25
I agree that the condensing unit might be the right size. Adding a good dehumidifier is a great idea because it reduces the required capacity of the condensing unit. By removing the humidity from the air you can raise your thermostat set point temperature from say 75 to say 78 and still be very compfortable without being clammy. I disagree completely that one should oversize a condensing unit however. This violates rule #1 in engineering and will lead to the compressor cycling on and off and an elevation in humidity level. Remember, the thermostat is a sensible temperature detector only and once the T-stat senses that the room temperature is with in 1 degree of set point it will signal the condensing unit to shut off. The T-stat does not measure humidity. For proper dehumidification the condensing unit must be on longer to dry out the air. Temperature is satisified much quicker than dehumidification. This is an often overlooked thermodynamic condition, especially in school designs. I am sure everyone reading this blog has been in a room that is cold and clammy...a direct result of the condensing unit shutting off before it has a chance to dehumidify the air. Solution is a dehumidifier, a better solution is hotgas bypass, best solution is an APR valve ($$). But never oversize a condensing unit in increases cycle time and wear and tear on the compressor leading to premature compressor failure ($$$$$).
Originally Posted by vet
While I agree with youyr statement in general there are designs that will contradict what you have said. That however is for another post in the pro's section.
Originally Posted by navair86
It also really does not relate to this thread because she has not used the A/C on this system yet. It was installed in November and her energy use issues have to do with a straight elcetric heat unit.
[=bobb25;1779772]Did you read the site rules? I think that 2 posts with links to your web site might possibly come under rule #4. "Advertising of Web Sites and Products is not accepted on this site - so don't do it. It will be deleted. If you would like to purchase advertising space, please contact HVAC.Talk@gmail.com"[/QUOTE]
You didn't have to repost his link.