3m Warning

[jeepgrady]

Well, FIRECONTROL states that the consumer should install the same type of filter that the contractor originally put in, or the warranty could be voided, then I would consider it to be a contradiction to the advise of buying the best filter there is.

[gary_g]

O.K., so as an average homeowner, I'm stuck behind a rock and a hard place. It's either the POS fiberglass jobs (now, they seem to be half a filter), or the MERV 8 pleated jobs.

Been trying to find info on the web re: pressure drop, but it seems to be lacking.

What would you recommend in a 1" filter?

AM

I use NaturalAire Standard Pleated Filters (MERV 8) made by Flanders. Not too restrictive for a 1" filter. $7 for a 3-pack at HD. I change the filter monthly.

Take care.

[adrianf]

Well, FIRECONTROL states that the consumer should install the same type of filter that the contractor originally put in, or the warranty could be voided, then I would consider it to be a contradiction to the advise of buying the best filter there is.

I see your point but there are a few BIG qualifiers regarding the best and suitabilty to task or misapplication of the best. What I think FIREHOUSE ment was that if the system is designed with the pressure drop of the filter installed that without knowing the current TESP that the safe aka wise thing to do is just stick with whats there.

[dash]

Better filtration is great for the equipment and indoor air quality.

That said most duct systems were not designed to handle the static(resistance to air flow),of better filters,many duct systems are undersized to start with,before adding better filters.

We find duct remediation is needed on about 50% of all our Aeroseal Duct Sealing jobs, see www.aeroseal.com ,if you aren't familar with the process.

Same for replacemnet jobs,and 95% of the time we add better filters.

A simple static pressure test,along with the manufacturers fan data,is all it takes to tell if better filters can be added,without duct changes.

[Mr Bill]

I had heard about aeroseal a few months back, it appears to work on the same principle as radiator slop leak you pour in stop leak and it finds the leak during circulation and plugs it. Is there a complete video of this somewhere that explains the procedure in more detail? and is there any potential hazards to this at all breathing the vapors, etc? and will it work on flex just as effectively as metal? and how do you know when the duct system is beyond the help of aeroseal? Is there any special certification needed to use this product. Or can all these question be answered at the web site? I could see were this could be beneficial in Houston, we have lots of duct systems with leaks both flex and metal.
Thanks

[dash]

There's a lot on www.aeroseal.com

Not sure if Houston area requies a Franchise or can be purchased directly thru distribution.Seems Carrier is in the process of changing to go thru distribution.Pricey to get into either way,so anyone starting out must be comitted to making it work in there area.Took us two years to really get it going.

Their training says no issues with fumes,oddly it smells like Elmers Glue,likely no absolute proof,testing,etc..Very liittle finds it's way into the home,with attic duct systems.I'm told that it fogs the basement,when sealing panned returns in the north.

Seals flex in about the same time as metal,from what we have seen.

It really like Fix-A -Flat for your tires,seals as air escapes thru the "leak"

Can seal up to a 5/8" gap by however long it might be.Bigger the gap,the longer the sealing time.

[Mr Bill]

It really like Fix-A -Flat for your tires,seals as air escapes thru the "leak"

Can seal up to a 5/8" gap by however long it might be.Bigger the gap,the longer the sealing time.

Yes fix-a-flat thats a better example, wow 5/8" gap that pretty good,
two years to get it going? well if your patients paid off I am sure it was worth it. Man I don't know I guess you would have to be really committed to take this on, I will talk to my salesman he is always open for something that is proven effective that he can make a dollar on and if he likes the idea he can follow up on it.
Thanks

[mark beiser]

Yes fix-a-flat thats a better example, wow 5/8" gap that pretty good,
two years to get it going? well if your patients paid off I am sure it was worth it. Man I don't know I guess you would have to be really committed to take this on, I will talk to my salesman he is always open for something that is proven effective that he can make a dollar on and if he likes the idea he can follow up on it.
Thanks

It is very impressive stuff. 10 years ago it costs around $60k, not including a truck, to get a franchise, equipment and some training, and you paid a royalty on every job you did. No clue how it works now.

It isn't the kind of thing that will pay off very well if you just use it in house on your own jobs, unless you are a huge contractor.
A lot of contractors that do Aeroseal jobs have a truck specifically for it that just says Aeroseal, no phone numbers or anything, and the people that do the jobs have shirts that just say Aeroseal.
We can sub out the sealing to a local Aeroseal contractor, and they invoice us instead of the customer.

It isn't a magic bullet, you will still have to manually seal big leaks, especially any building cavities that are used for return, etc.

[ampulman]

No more than 2 cfm per square inch to keep the velocity down so the filter has half a chance. Idealy .75 sq in per cfm.

I'm locked in on sq in (16 x25 = 400). Unfortunately, my current a/c is 4 ton, i.e., 1600 CFM; heating (guess) is somewhat less. Both are oversized. By your recommendation, my filter is undersized (should have twice as much surface area.

The only way I can get more surface area is to use a pleated filter, which is not recommended. As I'm hoping to replace my system soon, I'm looking into having a media filter (more surface area).

Since both heating and cooling will be downsized per manual j, and duct system will probably have little change, hopefully, pressure drop will not be a problem.

In the mean time, if you could recommend filter brands and sources, it would be appreciated.

AM

[ebierley]

I'm locked in on sq in (16 x25 = 400). Unfortunately, my current a/c is 4 ton, i.e., 1600 CFM; heating (guess) is somewhat less. Both are oversized. By your recommendation, my filter is undersized (should have twice as much surface area.

The only way I can get more surface area is to use a pleated filter, which is not recommended. As I'm hoping to replace my system soon, I'm looking into having a media filter (more surface area).

Since both heating and cooling will be downsized per manual j, and duct system will probably have little change, hopefully, pressure drop will not be a problem.

In the mean time, if you could recommend filter brands and sources, it would be appreciated.

AM

I like the Precisionaire by flanders that you can get a Home Depot. Just make sure you check them monthly and change them as needed.

[dash]

It is very impressive stuff. 10 years ago it costs around $60k, not including a truck, to get a franchise, equipment and some training, and you paid a royalty on every job you did. No clue how it works now.

It isn't the kind of thing that will pay off very well if you just use it in house on your own jobs, unless you are a huge contractor.
A lot of contractors that do Aeroseal jobs have a truck specifically for it that just says Aeroseal, no phone numbers or anything, and the people that do the jobs have shirts that just say Aeroseal.
We can sub out the sealing to a local Aeroseal contractor, and they invoice us instead of the customer.

It isn't a magic bullet, you will still have to manually seal big leaks, especially any building cavities that are used for return, etc.

Actually we find it seals building cavities,like wall returns very well.Maybe you have another example.

[dash]

I'm locked in on sq in (16 x25 = 400). Unfortunately, my current a/c is 4 ton, i.e., 1600 CFM; heating (guess) is somewhat less. Both are oversized. By your recommendation, my filter is undersized (should have twice as much surface area.

The only way I can get more surface area is to use a pleated filter, which is not recommended. As I'm hoping to replace my system soon, I'm looking into having a media filter (more surface area).

Since both heating and cooling will be downsized per manual j, and duct system will probably have little change, hopefully, pressure drop will not be a problem.

In the mean time, if you could recommend filter brands and sources, it would be appreciated.

AM

Any merv 8 or 10 4" plus pleated filter,or if you want better,Trane,Carrier or Lennox,filtration products.

[mark beiser]

Actually we find it seals building cavities,like wall returns very well.Maybe you have another example.

They must build them better in your neck of the woods.