Wait a second -- there are aftermarket sites that offer the Viconics replacement board?! If that is the case, I'll buy it -- I didn't find any such sites or an inexpensive location to buy it. More importantly, it seemed like it was simply a matter of taking it to an electronics repair store, as advised earlier, and I could just get the relays replaced and that would be easier / less expensive.
I'm not "hell-bent" on anything, I'm just trying to get it running. It seemed like the idea of a electronics repair shop was a good idea, but I have to figure out a way to convince them to take it -- none of them seem to want to have anything to do with it, but I feel that if I can get enough information to determine whether it's the relays, I could convince them just to replace the relays.
You have to admit -- if it's passing the voltage, but not the current, it sounds like it would be an easy fix for the repair service, if I could just get one to take it.
wrench -- there is no pilot relay (it's elec). There is a compressor "connector" which is triggered by 28v which is passed when the two KLT1C12DC12 are triggered. The connector works fine, and the 28v is sent to the relay fine. The KLT1C12DC12 is the part that appears to be bad, but I'm still confused on how it could pass voltage but not any level of current, because it doesn't seem like it's possible with a relay to go semi-bad, it would be all or nothing.
Post a picture of this things workings.
Could it be possible that the dual-tap transformer (12v/24v) that was a 40VAC that you replaced was a bias transformer? Meaning it had both an ac and dc output?
Originally Posted by wpb
You can't get pro membership as soon as you sign up.
So you would still have been given vague answers.
Telling you how to test the board is step by step DIY.
As a software developer, You should have a lot of contacts with people that can work on electronics. And all of them should know how to test that board and relays.
I already gave you one option.
Originally Posted by wpb
Here's another...google is your friend.
They show specs, a full manual and a list of authorized distributors to buy the part from.
Repairing the board sounds easy. But you're just as likely to be fixing the symptom of the actual problem.
Don't get me wrong beenthere because I am new to this board. But you keep saying you can't help with DIY and I understand this is in the rules. Rule 2. Do-It-Yourselfers - not here. I also read in the site rules that you cannot advertise web sites Rule 4. Advertising of Web Sites and Products which you clearly do in your signature. What gives?
Yes I do.
Did you check out that web site.
Its an HVAC TALK forum member map.
One of the mods also has it in his sig.
If they, or the admin, thought it was inappropriate, they would have removed it from my sig by now.
I did check it out. Looks interesting. Did not stay long enough to figure it out.
I guess i need to add my mug to the map!!!!!
Posting here, is like doing a service call.
Sometimes conclusions are made, before everthing is checked out.
Now get your mug on there.
Unable to safe captcha-image.
Am I doing something wrong?
I didn't put my mug on it.
Just my location.
I have no idea where the connection is between software developers and electronics people, but I don't know a single electronics repair person or circuit designer -- not through college or in any job I've worked. When looking for a repair shop, I asked a few developer friends of mine, and they had no ideas either. According to you, we're evidently not the norm -- I apologize.
In my travels here, I'm realizing that I must not have the level of connections I should, that I'm pretty much an idiot (or at least not intlelligent enough to banter though these politics), that I'm hell-bent simply because I'm asking for some advice, among just about every other implication that would lead me to be undeserving of any form of assistance without being beat by the locals.
It's nice to see that people are willing to invest the time it takes to write a reply complaining about my post.
Anyway.. Wrech, excellent suggestion, thank you. It was AC on both sides, just the standard split halfway through the coil both sharing the same common.
Quote: But you're just as likely to be fixing the symptom of the actual problem.
That is also a good point, thank you CFB. I did have that link (I referred to it earlier and mentioned I could buy from them) but when you mentioned aftermarket sites, I thought you meant Internet retailers carried the part.
You have to sign up first right? I was not about to put my picture on it.
Maybe this one...