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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    in
    Posts
    36
    try this company they have a little info on there site about fafco heat pumps.
    Mirasol Fafco Solar
    State of Fl. Lic. # CFC 025586
    508 E. Colonial Lane - Nokomis, FL. 34275
    Phone (941) 484-0130 Fax (941) 483-3297
    State License# CVC56687

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    S.E. Missouri
    Posts
    258
    I remember the Peregrine Sea-aire unit. Does this unit look anything like Thermopride's air conditioner condensor? Just curious.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Near Philly
    Posts
    98
    you might try a pool forum site; perhaps someone has had similar problem with a cure. Good luck!

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    89
    http://www.poolheatpumps.com/index.htm

    Maybe these guys can help. They've got a florida number and an email form to request parts for odd pool heatpumps.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    13
    Coker - thank you for the research. The heat pump they sell is not a FAFCO, it looks to be a Solarium. If you look at their wording, it's a big ambiguous, but it appears they just use the FAFCO name.

    Fortunately, I think I may have found a solution. While taking beenthere's advice, I disconnected the board to bring into an electronics shop. On the face of board (previously hidden) there was a part number that I was able to track down! It turns out, it's a fairly common board made by Viconics, part HP727 (I include that in case someone finds themself on this forum in the future, looking for the same info).

    Prior to ordering the board, I thought about seeing whether an electronics repair shop could fix it as you suggested (really great idea, btw, thank you). This got me to thinking...

    There is nothing involved in this circuit leading to the relay for the connector. It's just the 24v incoming being passed through the relay. Therefore, if I'm getting the 24v signal on the other side, but I am not getting any level of current, then does that not suggest one or both relays are fried?

    While it seems obvious that this is the solution (since the 24V comes right off the transformer, so it has to be the solution, I would think) -- I still can't get my mind around why I would be able to register any voltage. With a relay, it should be all-or-nothing, I thought?

    Now -- before someone says they can't help becuse it's DIY, understand I'm taking this to a repair shop. I would just like to speak intelligently about it when I get there, because most repair shops are not going to have the ability to hookup everything, and therefore they'll just turn me down. However, if I can find some evidence that it's the relay (and combat their argument when they say "it's not the relay because it's getting the voltage") then I'm hoping to find a shop that will work on it.

    Thank you in advance!!

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Tucson AZ
    Posts
    166

    High resistance

    Sounds like you have a poor connection (high resistance) between where the 28v enters the circuit board and the contactor coil itself. This would explain why the coil voltage measures only 21v when the input to the board is 28v, and why the contactor does not operate.

    The missing 7v will be appearing across the bad connection and can be traced with your voltmeter- that is if in fact you do have a bad connection.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    13
    The 21V measurement was just me, evidently. Every time the HVAC tech measured it, it was the same as the output. I think I may not have been making good contact.

    But on the point of the relays and the voltage passing through:

    This is a PC board, dipped in Epoxy, and the side where the 28v runs (direct from the input to the relays) is on the hidden side of the board where nothing could have interfered. I've inspected it and it's perfect. There is absolutely nothing between the souce-input and the relay that is an issue.

    So how could it be that I can measure 28v on the other side of the relay, yet there is no real amount of current passing through? Is it just impossible -- that the relays could not be the problem? Or if it is possible, what do I tell the repair shop as to why I think it *can* be the relays? I spoke to two repair shops and both turned it down because they could not work on the item -- if I could explain "I just need a relay replaced" or tell them with some intelligence why it's able to get voltage but still bad (neither believed me, which is why I'm posing the question) then I'd hope I'd have better luck.

    Thank you!

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    13
    No ideas?

    Any idea how I would I test on my own, I was thinking about applying the 12v to the relay to get it to switch, then passing the 28v through it -- my problem is that I don't know how I test whether it's limiting/restrciting current?

    Could I just test it for resistance? I figured that would not represent whether it could carry current, because an ohmeter is just testing resistance at a small current. So I wasn't sure how I'd test to see whether current is really passing.

    By the way, the relays are P/N: KLT1C12DC12 -- here is a thread from a guy having a similar problem: http://www.electronicfied.com/sci.el...oard_3987.html

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    68,064
    To tell you would be DIY instructions.
    Sorry.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Piedmont Triad, NC
    Posts
    76
    I = V/R

    Current = Volts / Resistance

    If you have 2 values you can get the other.

    Sounds like the pilot relay is bad to me.

    I would definitely run all new wires.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    13
    Wrench, thank you. I have run new wires for this component, and they pass current fine, as does the PC board -- the only things standing in-front of the relay. I'm still at a loss as to how the relay can be passing 28v but bad, which is why I want to test it further.

    beenthere -- I don't want to DIY repair it, I'm just trying to gain some intelligence so I can convince an electronics repair place to work on it. In South Florida, it appears we only hav AV repair places, and they don't appear to want to work on something like this. If you don't want to help me, that's certainly your perogative, but I'm not hurting anyone and I could just as easily have signed-on from a different perspective and received the information without a hassle. BTW -- As a software developer, I get on forums like this and help dozens of people every month. I can't imagine how unfortunate it would be if I refused to help people trying to fix, or in this case, simply diagnose their own computers, because they were not in the profession.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Piedmont Triad, NC
    Posts
    76
    wpb the difference is people can get killed working with electricity and mechanical systems. If I were you I would ask the tech to bypass the board to see if the pilot relay works. If it does work after the bypass order a new board for him to replace. You said you have the number on the board.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    GEORGIA
    Posts
    1,532
    Why are you so hell bent on repairing this thing? There are many aftermarket sites that offer this part.



    Of course they discourage DIY projects....

    "Value our Differences"

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