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  1. #14
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    Tends to allow the retention head to get hotter, and the nozzle to over heat. Fouls the nozzle a little quicker.
    The spark tends to let the flame be a little further from the head, less heat on the nozzle.

    It does it more as the passage ways of the Miller restrict.

    Before the Beckett became standard. R8185 Intermitant primaries took out more nozzles then dirty oil did.
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  2. #15
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    It's good that you get your heater checked every year. The majority of the mobile home owners who call me never do anything to their heater until it breaks. On an annual checkup, I don't replace the air filter or electrodes unless needed.

    A lot of Becketts come with an F-0 end cone, rated for 0.40 to 0.75 gph. Water heater makers also use that end cone. If a Beckett with an F-0 has problems, I replace it with an F-3, rated for 0.75 to 1.00 gph. If it's a 0.60 gph nozzle, I just adjust the air shutter. It has to do with how the burner handles the flame. IMO, a Beckett loses some flame retention capabilities with an F-0 end cone. If you aren't having problems, leave the F-0 on. Oil heater manufacturers (not only Miller), use nozzles and burners that give them the best efficiency for government ratings, and not for field use.

    I see no reason to change the primary or ignition transformer if you aren't having problems. Neither will make a noticeable difference in your oil or electric consumption or make the heater last longer.

    I work on Coleman mobile home heaters, and was once an "authorized Coleman" repair company. They are a piece of junk (sorry Twilli).

    Around here, almost all mobile home oil lines are off the top. Some are two pipe, and some are one pipe. Do you have a two pipe setup with a return going back into the top of the tank? I never installed a Tiger Loop system, but have removed several. There are other, much better ways of solving oil delivery problems.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    406

    for bobb25 about oil tank set up

    mine is a pancake tank meaning it lays down insted of standing up like most home tanks do.
    it has 4 solid iron legs with pedistals set on a concreate pad to keep it stable.
    it has one pipe that the filter connects to then the oil line that feeds the furance attaches to that thats it one line from tank to pump.
    this is how most of the tanks in my park are but a few of the older ones have the 2 line set up.
    what are the advantages of this?
    thanks

  4. #17
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    Easier on the pump. Easier to prime. Sometimes will prime itself.

  5. #18
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    If the return line freezes(jells), it can also blow out the pump seal.
    What a bite that is.
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  6. #19
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    Never had that happen without the supply line jelling, in which case nothing moved. I can see blowing seals if the return was too close to the bottom and water in the tank froze.

  7. #20
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    Usually, if that happened, water could be found in the return.

    But some times, it would jell enough to build just enough pressure to blow the seal. (10psi)
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  8. #21
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    I've seen water freeze in a supply line, but never in a return line.

  9. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobb25 View Post
    I've seen water freeze in a supply line, but never in a return line.
    Your lucky then.
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  10. #23
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    406

    for bobb25

    ok next qustion i was told i could cut down my power usage by replaceing the standard burner motor with the new PCS mini moter the newer burners come with .
    what are the pros and cons of this and is it worth it ?
    would like any and all info about this you techs can provide.
    thanks
    and thanks for the help so far i want to keep this unit in tip top shape.
    was offerd a coleman evoution but isaid no thanks ill take a miller .
    what i meant is one service tech tried to talk me in to takeing out my miller and putting in a coleman and i didnt like what i saw from the unit in the truck .
    was not any whares as solid built as my cmf 80.
    on a nother note do any of you techs know if i can install a power vent propaine or oil burning water heater in my manufacutred home or is this illeagal to do so?
    i want to get rid of my power hog in the closet

  11. #24
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    Won't save you enough to pay for the motor.
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  12. #25
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    What is the amp draw of both motors? Find that out, and do the math. 0.60 gph x gallons you use will tell you how many hours your heater runs in a year. Depends on your electric rate, but with the cost of the motor and possibly labor, it may take a while to get a return on your investment.

    You need to get a water heater that's approved for a mobile/modular home. Here again, do the math. Several online energy calculators. Penn State has a good one.

  13. #26
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    PA
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    Its about a half amp difference draw.

    600 gals oil divided by .6 GPH = 1000 hours burner run time = 60KW a year savings times .15 cents per KW = $9.00 savings a year.

    Based on 15 cents per KWH, it will save 90 cents per 100 hours of burner run time.
    LOng long time to get a return if just replacing motor to save on electric bill.
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