Rheem Thermostat Wiring
We recently installed a Rheem RPRL036Jez Heat Pump (2 stage) (abbreviated as HP for later discussion), RPRLHM3621JA Air Handler (AH) with a 5KW auxiliary electric heat strip, and Rheem's TST304UNMS Thermostat (Th), and the wiring is a bit of an issue. The contractor and the tech suport at the distributor and I all have different opinions as to the wiring of the W2 terminal on the Thermostat and the Air Handler.
The spec sheet shows (Th)WE connected to (AH)W1 and (HP)D, these being the Emergency Heat connections, and the HP defrost cycle; then (Th)W2 is to be connected to (AH)W2, for third stage auxiliary heat (the heat strip). The contractor installed an 8-wire harness, connected B/B, Y/Y1, Y2/Y2, G/G, RH+RC/R, C/C, WE/W1 and connected the 8th wire to the (Th)L terminal for the Heat Pump malfunction indicator, leaving no wire available for (Th)W2; he then jumpered (Th)WE to (Th)W2, left (AH)W2 disconnected, claiming (AH)W2 served no purpose. Operationally, the thermostat works fine in AC mode; when calling for heat, Stage 1 works (solid lit indicator); upping the temp on the Thermostat 3 degrees energizes Stage 2 and the “+2”indicator blinks, but the Thermostat gives an error message "call for service"; I'm not even sure if Stage 3 ever engages.
One tech support person at the distributor feels W2 should be separately connected as per the spec sheet for the equipment, another agrees with the contractor that W2 is unnecessary, and Rheem won't let me talk to a factory rep at all. Another forum response indicated that if (Th)W2/(AH)W2 are not wired together, then if (Th)WE/(Th)W2 are jumpered at TH, then (AH)W2/(AH)W1 should also be connected together at the Air Handler terminal.
We cannot give out that info due to the site rules.
Even if I could give you the info your post is so confusing I can't tell heads from tails.
Karst means cave. So, I search for caves.
seems as someone (maybe everyone involved) needs a bit of training
It`s better to be silent and thought the fool; than speak and remove all doubt.
What site rules prevent answering my question?
The explanation of my problem may be complicated but I believe a careful reading of the terms I use in detailing the current wiring setup will make it less confusing to anyone understanding today's 8- and 10- wire thermostats.
You would think the Rheem professionals would have a handle on their own equipment; their installation manual even had one of the dip switch settings on the Air Handler reversed in a diagram, contradicting the text immediately below the diagram. It took a homeowner to point this out to them...
answering your question would put diy info in a public forum. Maybe you won't use the info for DIY but since anybody can read this post....
Karst means cave. So, I search for caves.
I like pictures better anyhow. All those words just confuse me.
Perhaps you should have read the instructions before calling.
No Heat No Cool You need Action Fast
Originally Posted by twilli3967
Well he should have got the video explanation in the Rheem instructions, I guess he
probably just threw it away thinking he could figure it out himself.
“Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards". - Vernon Law
"Never let success go to your head, and never let failure go to your heart". - Unknown
OK... I get the message... actually, it was pretty funny, Three Stooges... that is exactly how I felt with the contractor here and the Rheem distributor's tech guy on the phone with him. Yet, putting it all in pespective, I'm still holding the bag...
I am not trying to replace the contractor with a DIY solution; I spent a lot of money on what I perceived was a top of the line system, and I just want it to work the way it should... and it isn't. Why? Because the contractor doesn't want to rerun a 10-wire harness through the walls again? Because the W2 wires aren't properly connected? Because no one in his shop ever installed this system before? I wish I knew. I just know that I have a crapload of expensive equipment that isn't doing what it should. Humor is good, but it ain't heating my house.
the only thing i can think of when i read your post is that 3 stooges song that twilly posted!
Originally Posted by RacerKosy
a qualified tech will have no problem figuring this out!
the fact that you have a malfunction light coming on indicates that a minimum of 1 problem should be addressed
i know how i would wire it, but as stated we cant discuss that in a public forum!
Thanks for the reply Airmechanical.
My contractor has been in business for decades; he is a Rheem authorized dealer; I presume he's a qualified tech. Please note, the techs at Rheem's distributor for this region don't even agree on the wiring!
I think 9 wires are needed for proper functioning of all the features of this system, but what do I know...
My e-mail is <REMOVED>... could you or anyone e-mail your thoughts on the correct wiring directly, without discussing it in this public forum?
I'm at the end of my rope, uh wire... with this problem.
Last edited by jrbenny; 02-17-2008 at 09:58 PM.
Reason: EMAIL ADDRESSES BELONG IN YOUR PROFILE
It is a top of the line system, but between larry, curley and moe... nevermind.
Tell your tech to jump w1/e to W2 at both ends and run one wire.
If your check engine light is coming on, it's either got a short between the L and something else, a miswire or there is a legitimate fault at the od unit when it kicks into 2nd stage.
If you had a larger heat package, you could reduce the amount of electric heat coming on when in defrost. Since you dont, dont worry about it.