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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    241
    Depends what you need filter for....

    My wife claimed that it would not be worth money and my time, to rip 1" cabinet and replace with 4" one (F200E1037 was thinking of upgrading to 300 EAC). That until week later. She was really surprised how little dust we had in the house with MERV13 filter. Filter gets replaced twice a year.

    Fiber kept coil clean, but house full of dust.

  2. #15
    bumping this and watching this looks intresting.

    My 2 cents and this is just on a owner level is that as long as you buy the cheap ones and keep an eye on them every 30 days then its probably ok, that also depends on the enviroment too. I use the cheap fiberglass ones I check mine every 30 days its never horrible.

    I have a dog, no kids, non smoker. I just change mine every 30-35 days no matter what.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Pigeon Forge, TN
    Posts
    295

    fiberglass

    I use the fiberglass filters they work fine.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BAYOU LAND
    Posts
    697
    Quote Originally Posted by farupnorth View Post
    I recommend the 1" pleated (middle of the road) filter changed every 2-3 months. The fiberglass ones you are using allow most dust, dirt and pollen to pass through and collect on the blower and motor. This will cause the blower to get out of balance and wear out the motor bearings or will insulate the motor windings causing them to over heat. I usually show customers that use fiberglass filters just how much it costs for me to relpace the blower motor after it burns out!
    i like to use a good pleated filter all year, except during the heat of the summer,i will go to the cheap ones
    during those 110 days,airflow is every thing
    of coarse i do clean my own coils

  5. #18
    I just looked and mine are MERV 11. It says to change them every 90 days but I do it more like 60 or even quicker in the summer when the air is on most of the time. The Tech who works on my furnace tells me I have the cleanest one in town. I have always been highly filter conscious as it sure protects expensive components.

  6. #19
    I've had my Bryant 90I for 2 months. I had a problem with the filter cab not allowing for the larger filters. So I started with a 3M 1" 600 Rated filter. I got a filter alert pretty fast. I switched to a cheap 30 day fiberglass. This allows all the dust in the world to blow around my house. Burbur carpets, dogs and a lot of in and out of the house! The fiberglass filter has my static sitting and a nice level at high and low stage for my undersized returns. 1.7 low and 6.8 on high.
    Some mods were done to the filter cab and I was able to put in a 4 inch MERV 12 Honeywell filter. My pressure is now 2.0 on low and 6.9 on high. Not a bad trade off. It says the filter is good for 1 year but I use to change a 90 day filter every 30 days. Maybe I'll get 6 months out of this one?
    If you can fit a 4 inch filter, it's the way to go!

  7. #20
    My filter basket would hold a 4" filter. I will get one and try it

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    39
    Pleaded filters reduce airflow to much at high CFMs for air conditioning. I can see them bow-in and hear them drop sometimes in the filter box (house has three) when the fan goes off. I suppose a VS motor will keep the airflow up but suck in a lot more junk from any leaks. I also find the pleated filters are noisy in AC with whistling sounds for that reason and clog faster, which is why they have twice the area. They pick up a lot of floating stuff that probalby does not matter unless one is overly concerned with allergies.

    With a furnace with lower CFMs the pressure drop across a pleated filter will be less.

    I've used fiberglass for years for cooling and the evaporator shows no signs of needing a cleaning when it's checked.

    Most of the AC techs. I've run into say to stay with fiberglass for cooling for all of the above reasons.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    sevierville TN.
    Posts
    177
    I modified my return gril and put foam tape around frame for a seal and use 40% 2" pleated, greater filteration less restriction due to larger surface area. In the spring I will be replaceing all my duct work, I have ductboard now and it was designed by an Idiot. My new system will be ballanced and include a whole house filter.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    91
    just currious but when the system is in cooling mode and the cooling coils are wet, doesn't this attract any dirt that gets into the system? Or, does this make it more self cleaning and filtering at the same time?

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Dallas TX
    Posts
    192
    Dear RoBoTeq, we have one section of town where the filter grills are at floor level. It works like a vacuum cleaner for everyone walking down the hall. Perhaps our high humidity drains the static charge, but I have found too much junk in too many evaporator coils.
    If your customer service area does not include such designs, I envy you.
    Now as to the "stink pretties", I do agree they should go the way of colored toilet water, out of the house. Or at least throw them out before they stack up an inch deep!

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Dallas TX
    Posts
    192
    I have noticed light dust rinses away. But some days may have too much fungus and start to grow if the rinse is not fast enough. That is related to why I don't service beer stores any more!

  13. #26
    I have seen several homes with fiberglass filters and some with others. I would not use fiberglass filters if you gave them to me.

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