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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    55
    According to ARI, it is showing that the Btuh put out by the XL16i at 17 degrees is only 17,500 while while both the XL14i and XL15i are showing that the Btuhare in excess of 20,000 at 17 degrees. It showed my exact EER/SEER/HSPF ratings to be 11.40/15.25/8.75. Just for comparison sake, I looked at a couple of Carrier heat pumps and the 2 stage one puts out less Btuh than a single stage one although the 2 stage heat pump still manages to put out 20,000 BTU at 17 degrees. It almost looks like the single stage heat pumps have the capability to put out more BTU's at colder temperatures. Are these numbers on the ARI directory correct as the numbers that dan_sw_fl posted were higher?

    I went ahead at changed the cph numbers for both second and third stage and will let you know the results. It still seems almost unbelievable that we had considerably lower heating bills with the old heat pump during the dead of winter compared to this new unit. Good thing electric rates are relatively cheap here in Ohio at 6.7 cents otherwise I'd easily be having $500+ electric bills with the XL-16i.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,058
    Quote Originally Posted by s012adh View Post
    According to ARI, it is showing that the Btuh put out by the XL16i at 17 degrees is only 17,500 while while both the XL14i and XL15i are showing that the Btuhare in excess of 20,000 at 17 degrees. It showed my exact EER/SEER/HSPF ratings to be 11.40/15.25/8.75. Just for comparison sake, I looked at a couple of Carrier heat pumps and the 2 stage one puts out less Btuh than a single stage one although the 2 stage heat pump still manages to put out 20,000 BTU at 17 degrees. It almost looks like the single stage heat pumps have the capability to put out more BTU's at colder temperatures. Are these numbers on the ARI directory correct as the numbers that dan_sw_fl posted were higher?

    I went ahead at changed the cph numbers for both second and third stage and will let you know the results. It still seems almost unbelievable that we had considerably lower heating bills with the old heat pump during the dead of winter compared to this new unit. Good thing electric rates are relatively cheap here in Ohio at 6.7 cents otherwise I'd easily be having $500+ electric bills with the XL-16i.
    Post more equipment info, Tstat, refrigerant line size, length, location etc.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    55
    Here is the exact equipment I have:
    Air handler: 4TEE3F37B1000AA
    Heat pump: 4TWX6036B1000A
    Thermostat: TCONT802A532DAA

    The length of the line is 18'. The furnace is located in a crawl space that is pretty much closed off from the outside air. The latest static measurements the person took was the supply was +.21, the return was -.23 and the totals was .44. Let me know if you need any more information. Thanks!

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,058
    Quote Originally Posted by s012adh View Post
    Here is the exact equipment I have:
    Air handler: 4TEE3F37B1000AA
    Heat pump: 4TWX6036B1000A
    Thermostat: TCONT802A532DAA

    The length of the line is 18'. The furnace is located in a crawl space that is pretty much closed off from the outside air. The latest static measurements the person took was the supply was +.21, the return was -.23 and the totals was .44. Let me know if you need any more information. Thanks!
    Do you know what your dip switches are set to?

    What size aux. strip?

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    55
    It's a 19.2 kw aux strip. I am not sure of what the dip switches are set to...I would have to go into the crawl space and check. Any specific ones I need to look at or just all of them?

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    132

    temperature sluff

    there is a condition i have always heard of as called temperature sluff. spelling may be incorrect but basically it works like this. it gets cold and your heat pump is struggling to keep up, then drops into a defrost or basically turns back into an air conditioner. to keep the balance point between ac and electric strips about the same the strips need to be big enough to offset three tons of ac. you have turned off a bank? which i assume you mean 5 kw of the ten kw you need to offset 3 tons of ac. so as the night progresses and a defrost is needed ,you run three tons of ac and half the strips you need so the temp drops or sluffs off a few degrees each defrost. then you enter a cycle where you heat twenty minutes ,defrost 15 and sluff off 3 or four degrees so when you come out of defrost , its time to heat again and reheat that cold evap coil you just chilled in defrost. you wind up with virtually no off cycle and more strip useage and a high bill. that being said i suspect the charge very well may be low. the boys in tyler have sure proven they can make a leaky evap coil.. getting that other heat strip working will help prevent temp sluff. also when real backup second stage is needed it will have the extra heat to handle the real cold weather. good luck.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,058
    Quote Originally Posted by s012adh View Post
    It's a 19.2 kw aux strip. I am not sure of what the dip switches are set to...I would have to go into the crawl space and check. Any specific ones I need to look at or just all of them?
    Post some pics of the board and wiring with dip switches it will be a row of 8.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    55
    Which panel is the dip switches behind? When I'm looking at it, I see a big panel on the right side with the cover to the breakers. Then to the left of it, there's a couple of smaller panels. I didn't want to just start taking off panels so I figured I would ask first.

    Also, is it common for there to be a humming noise coming from the air handler when the air isn't even running?

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    5,304
    Do you use the program mode on the t-stat, or you set it and forget it?

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    55
    I just set it at 68 and leave it there all of the time.

    One thing I forgot to ask earlier...If the heat pump is not completely level, can that cause any efficiency problems?

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    We have seen new top of line variable speed indoor units ,rasise the kw ,due to 3M filters,being restrictive and loading up very fast.What type filter do you have?

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    55
    There is no filter in the actual furnace. Instead the installer changed out the grilles at our return vents and put the filters in there so that we didn't have to worry about going into the crawl space to change the filter. The filters they provided are marked with a stamp of Glasfloss industries.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    Have they been changed,are they pleated ,sizes of filters??

    Do you run the indoor fan continiously?

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