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  1. #1

    installing air intake vent in basement

    I would like to install an air intake vent in the basement.
    Attached is a picture of the furnace and the air intake vent attached.

    How would I go about attaching one?

    The furnace room is being closed off and I am not refinishing that room.

    There is framing in the front that I could possibly carry it to.





    Thank you

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    somewhere between heaven and hell
    Posts
    957
    Can you go same route as exhaust? Do you have finish basement if so you need to find route closest to out side. Do you have gas hot water heater and if so is it in same place as furnace? If so if you live in Minnesota you must bring fresh air into furnace room also it is code here. Check with your HVAC contractor and city for city codes.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    19

    Confused

    Are you asking about intake for the furnace of return air for the space ?????

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,841
    ABS vent pipe??? Hmmm. LAARS recalled all the ABS vents they had on their HWG boilers. Anyway, the way that furnace is being walled in can only spell trouble. It appears that noone will be able to replace that furnace in the future, which is probably not that far down the road. If access was available on all or at least 3 sides when the furnace was installed, you can bet there are screws holdling the plenum on that no one will be able to reach once the sheetrock goes up. Is your home really that small that you have to put the studs all but right against the furnace? Where has common sense gone?

    With the insulation you've got already in place in the basement I can guarantee you you've created a confined combustion space, if it didn't already exist. If you're piping a fresh air intake directly into the furnace becasue it's a 2-pipe optional unit and the oringinal installers didn't install the fresh air pipe, then run directly from the outdoors to the indoor connection at the furnace but do NOT use PVC glue to attach the pipe to the furnace. However, if you're bringing fresh air into the SPACE, then you need to follow the National Gas Code regarding fresh air for confined spaces. That involves multiple air vents in specific locations and of a specific size. I'd recommend you seek out a knowledgable professional to keep you safe.
    If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.

    If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    somewhere between heaven and hell
    Posts
    957
    So what was the recall for on ABS? Reason being there is a company here who installs Lennox and that is all they use. Just wanting to know what recall was for so I know what to look for.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,841
    Wasn't handling the heat. They had multiple failures of the exhaust between the burner outlet and the exterior of the boiler jacket, where the installers attach the external vent. They always specified Schedule 40 PVC up to 200,000 Btu's and Schedule 80 CPVC for the 250,000 Btu input units. That was always a curiosity for me as the ABS has a much lower melting point than SCH. 80 CPVC. Now they've recalled all the ABS and replaced it with Sch. 80 CPVC, which is at the other end of the spectrum now because you can still use Sch. 40 PVC (no foam core on exhaust) 200,000 and below after the jacket. The CB/HWG is a condensing gas boiler.
    If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.

    If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!

  7. #7
    You can't see all the picture but the furnace is not closed in. There is a large opening on one end approx. 4 feet, for service of the furnace and a door opening on the other end for servicing or removal of the hot water tank.

    I do know that you need to have air for the furnace to run.

    So there is plenty of openings for that.
    What I am wondering is can I add the return air vents, like the ones that I have throughout my first floor and my second floor. On the first floor they are low to the ground and on my second floor there is a large one close to the ceiling.
    I thought that if i put one in the basement it would have better ventilation and air circulation.


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    752
    you first need to address combustion air requirements for the equipment. are you bring in outside air to address this ? louvered door or solid doors to mechanical room? As long as you have supplys in the basement putting a low return in the basement wall would work.You dont need much supply and return in basement due to being below the ground level. load calc will tell you this. I see the furnace is gas piped up BUT no chimney??? I would bring a return down the side wall to the right of the furnace door on the side and tape in off the return above. above duct is return and supply? or you could tap off the side of the return drop next to the filter and come out left of door but this way would be noisy being so close to the furnace and creat problem for filter.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    12,189
    This is not a DIY project. You need to find a contractor for this one.

    Thread closed.
    Perhaps you should have read the instructions before calling.

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