Problem with Olsen oil burning furnace

[jasonairmaster]

I installed a New Olsen oil burning furnace in a customers house. Probably the only oil furnace in the state of georgia. The problem on the installed furnace it goes out on lockout at least once a day. Every time I go back there is air in the lines.So I bleed the lines @ the pump to get the air out and it works until the next day. I have checked for leaks @ the oil lines changed the oil filter and it keeps on happening. the oil tank is in the ground outside of the house and the oil lines are 3/8 copper. I am wondering can there be rust in the tank because the oil tank is full. please help

[heatinghot]

i'll try too help:

One pipe or two pipe oil pump?
Change the gaskets on the oil pump and check all ports on the pump for tightness. It sounds like you are getting air bound some where.
Use flare connection on the oil lines not compression fittings.
Check the inline oil filter and change the gaskets as well.

Sometimes you need to change all the gaskets and the problems stop, but you don't know which gasket it was.

[jasonairmaster]

Ok before I replace the compression fitting on the furnace and there is only one and its on the pull line. yes it is a two pipe deal. When i unhooked the line before the oil filter no oil came out and I tried to pull the oil out but none came out and then I blew threw it. after I blew threw it oil came out. The tank company has done a test on the oil and they said it was good the tank just got filled a couple months ago.

[big johnson]

You need to check vacuum at the pump and pressure at the jet line. It sounds like you don't install many oil systems. If that's the case, you're better off subbing it out. It'll save you a lot of time and headache.

[Moose]

Your fuel line fittings MUST be flared if you are using copper tube. If when you blew the line out, you got oil, you may need to clean the tank.

[jasonairmaster]

yeah you maybe right the tank has been there for 35 years and I am going to change the fitting to flare

[heatinghot]

Big johnson is correct if you could get some one familiar with oil out to give you a hand it would be helpful. you may need some tools for the oil burner that would not be worth buying for just one job.

When you took the filter off and tried to pull oil thru, were you using a jigger pump, or how did you try to get the oil flowing?

How did you blow back on the line?

If you have some restriction in the supply line it could be taken out or blown back to the tank with a jigger pump. Once the line is completely clear you should be OK (as long as there is no air leaks). Restriction could be sludge or like you said rust.

It would be good to get a vacum reading and pressure reading at the pump so you know what is going on in the line.

If you have good nozzle pressure you most likely have good oil supply.
High vacuum could be restriction in supply line.
Not getting some vacuum could be air. Also sometimes the oil is gravity fed to the pump (depending on the tank location and elevation of burner and tank) so you really don't get much vacuum.

How long does the burner run when you are there and everything is fine? Does it cycle on and off like it is suppose to when you reach temp or furnace limit. Or does it lock out when it tries to restart? DO you lock out during in the middle of the burner firing?

lot of questions but i am trying to help as it sounds like oil is not to popular down there.

[big johnson]

The only way to know for sure if it's a fuel problem, is to test your pressures. I've seen underground tanks that are 50 years old and are still in tact and functioning. What were your cumbustion readings, smoke readings, etc. Are the elcetrodes adjusted correctly? Did you check the Z dimension when you put the burner in? There's a ton of stuff that can cause the problem you're having.

[beenthere]

Did you remember to put the bypass plug in the new oil pump?

Must be along line, if your bleeding a 2 pipe system.

If you have the bypass plug installed, and can't find any air leaks in your connections, or the oil filter connections. You could have a bad pump seal.

[skippedover]

This is not normally a difficult problem to resolve if you go about it systematically.

1. Replace any and all compression fittings with good, solid flare fittings.
2. Make certain that all threaded connections are properly sealed with pipe dope.
3. Install a tee between the oil pump and the thermal valve at the pump.
4. In the branch of the tee, install a vacuum gauge.
5. Start the burner and CLOSE the thermal valve at the tee. The oil pump should be able to pull a minimum of 20-inches of vacuum. If it can't you've got a pump problem. If it can, then proceed. Open the thermal valve completely.
6. Close the oil valve where the suction line come into the basement (there should be one there). Watch the vacuum gauge at the pump. It should be able to pull about 18-inches of vacuum. If it can't, then you've got an air leak between the oil pump thermal valve and the valve you just closed. If you can, then you don't have any air leaks between the oil pump and the wall supply valve.
7. If not already installed, then install a check valve in the suction line, arrow pointing in the direction of flow.
8. If you're still having an air problem, then install a TigerLoop and you'll be done. That involves diconnecting the return line to the tank and capping or plugging it, as you won't be using it anymore. You'll still 2-pipe the oil pump but the return line will go back to the TigerLoop.

Items 1 through 6 above are just good practice anyway to minimize any air leaks. Item 7 is always recommended when there's a significant pull from an underground tank. Item 8 has become pretty standard with those of us who deal with oil regularly and have and type of 'lift' situation between the tank and the oil pump.

As a final note, when operating the burner, the vacuum should not normally exceed 8-inches of vacuum steadily. If it does, then you need to install (unless it's already there) a 2-stage oil pump. Good luck.

[firecontrol]

If you got some buddies in the air conditioning business (either residential or automotive) ask them if they have an electronic sight glass. If they do, ask them how to use it and tell them you're looking for air bubbles in a copper oil line.
Trust me... it works and sheds tons of light on an air problem in an oil system.

[model m-man]

Just out of curiosity, what is a TigerLoop? I've never heard of it before. Is it something cc dickson's might carry?