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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by hearthman View Post
    "did not check the manifold pressures...which should be 8"... i dont know and i dont think i can check that.. what ive checked and adjusted the propane tanks outlet pressure regulator."

    If you don't know what you are doing, then please stop and let a pro work on it before you get hurt or hurt someone else. This is not a DIY site and you obviously do not know what you are doing with this fireplace, no offense.

    Hearthman


    Hearthman --- I don't think the picture you have with your posts is quite adequate for posts discussing the risks of equipment.


    In fact, you probably need three or four pictures. The first could be of a nice fire like the one you have. The second would show the fire flashing over into the room. The third would show the room engulfed and the fourth the whole house engulfed. An optional fifth could be of the charred timbers the next day.

    I continue to be amazed at the risks people take with unvented equipment. Of course, fire isn't the major problem there.



    Seattle Pioneer

  2. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by SeattlePioneer View Post
    Hearthman --- I don't think the picture you have with your posts is quite adequate for posts discussing the risks of equipment.


    In fact, you probably need three or four pictures. The first could be of a nice fire like the one you have. The second would show the fire flashing over into the room. The third would show the room engulfed and the fourth the whole house engulfed. An optional fifth could be of the charred timbers the next day.

    I continue to be amazed at the risks people take with unvented equipment. Of course, fire isn't the major problem there.



    Seattle Pioneer
    look fellowes... im done here, im not getting any answers... thanks for your help

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. Pa
    Posts
    6,166

    Exclamation Pogo was right

    How's this avatar, SP?

    Its funny how the "experts" who work in some semi-related field come here asking us how to fix things over the Internet, demonstrate their lack of understanding in the equipment, codes, standards, and troubleshooting then get mad at us when we cannot provide DIY advice, which is against site rules anyway.

    Vlad, if you understood servicing these units, you would not be tampering with the gas pressures set at the second stage regulator by the propane supplier. By tampering with those regulators, you just took on that liability. Other statements you have made or questions asked make it pretty clear you are not a technician who knows what he is doing. Therefore, you are putting yourself and others at risk. Just because you work around gas does not magically make you a qualified service technician. I work on hearth appliances but have the sense not to work on furnaces, boilers, or water heaters. I am not a licensed HVAC tech and have not taken training to work on these appliances. I study them so I have a better speaking knowledge and can often make referrals for an HVAC tech where I would not have been able to in years past. A man has to know his limitations. The heath industry has been one that seems to draw out a primal instinct in some people, mostly men, who think they can tinker and fix anything with just a little advice even though they never took professional training, worked on this equipment before or hold any certifications. The lucky ones get by with maybe some embarrassed looks or a few singed eyebrows. The others end up in rooms with cranky people wearing suites and carrying brief cases.

    If I was investigating your case here, I have proof documented online that you tampered with the first and second stage regulators and the appliance itself with no real idea what you were doing. You are putting at risk anyone who enters this building now. Should something go wrong and you failed to contract with a qualified technician to service it, you could potentially be found not only liable for the damages but, in the case with severe injury or death, guilty of gross negligence and reckless endangerment. So if it seems like we'r copping an attittude, I ask you to re-read this and think, a) you are not qualified to work on this appliance, b) you should shut it off until a qualified technician repairs it, and c) the site rules on this forum prohibit us from telling you how to fix it. Please lose the attitude and act responsibly.

    Vald, you are getting answers--you just don't like them.

    "we have met the enemy and he is us"-Pogo

    Hearthman

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    1,383
    Hearthman---


    Heh, heh! Yes, that photo plus your motto pretty much says it all.

  5. #18
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    Dec 2007
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    Interesting that i found this post. I also purchased the same fireplace from Lowes and have the same problem. Unit has a 3/8 inlet on unit. the installer installed a 3/8 line about 4' long from cut-off valve to unit inlet. Burner half lit. Installed a new regulator and am getting 14"wc. Still not working. Called manufactorer they said I need a 1/2" line to units 3/8 inlet. Had gas guy come back and do this. Still not working. Gas guy cleaned the burner orifices just in case there was a blockage. Same problem. Called manufactorer again, they say they have no idea why this is happening, and a supervisor will call me back. After two weeks no call. Called again and was told the same thing one week later, still no call. During this time I found if I remove the #4 log (left side short log) it lightes every time. Customer service said to remove the log. Instructions say do not operate wiithout all logs in place. I now have about $650.00 in a $300.00 fireplace. Can't use it, won't use it. Apparently defective. #4 log when in place has good clearance of burner. Piece of junk and still waiting for call and who is going to pay the bill for all this.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. Pa
    Posts
    6,166

    Question

    Can you provide the make and model number?

    Hearthman

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    anywhere I want to
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    Style selections
    mod#SSID280T
    ser#4038825
    customer service- Continental appliance inc
    Smyrna GA
    sold thru Lowes nationwide
    odd that lowes does not show these units on their websight

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    1,383
    Quote Originally Posted by mdnbiker View Post
    Interesting that i found this post. I also purchased the same fireplace from Lowes and have the same problem. Unit has a 3/8 inlet on unit. the installer installed a 3/8 line about 4' long from cut-off valve to unit inlet. Burner half lit. Installed a new regulator and am getting 14"wc. Still not working. Called manufactorer they said I need a 1/2" line to units 3/8 inlet. Had gas guy come back and do this. Still not working. Gas guy cleaned the burner orifices just in case there was a blockage. Same problem. Called manufactorer again, they say they have no idea why this is happening, and a supervisor will call me back. After two weeks no call. Called again and was told the same thing one week later, still no call. During this time I found if I remove the #4 log (left side short log) it lightes every time. Customer service said to remove the log. Instructions say do not operate wiithout all logs in place. I now have about $650.00 in a $300.00 fireplace. Can't use it, won't use it. Apparently defective. #4 log when in place has good clearance of burner. Piece of junk and still waiting for call and who is going to pay the bill for all this.


    I guess vlad didn't find our humor ---and warnings, to be of interest.


    In looking at the photos provided, there is a lobe of flame on the right but nothin apparent on the left side of the burner which is apparently running up hill to the back burner. Is that the case or is it simply an illusion of the photograph?


    Generally speaking, the flame should run around the burner going from burner port to burner port and light the entire burner within a second or two. Careful observation should reveal if there is an area of the burner which is being blocked by a log or simply failing to light.


    What are you observing?

  9. #22
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    Dec 2007
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    Flame moves from right side of burner front to left. About 1/3 to 1/2 way around the bend it stops. Sometimes it will go on around after a brief pause, but most of the time it just sits there. I can't say for how long cause I turn unit off after about 30 seconds. Burner does run slightly uphill as it makes bend and goes back to right. The log over the bend is at least 1 1/2" above the burner, but if removed the burner will light quickly about 95% of the time and with a slight pause the other times. I haven't looked at photos posted other than to see if the unit was the same as I have, but mine has multiple slits in burner about a eight inch section, center front and rear, with small orifices connecting the slit sections. Probably a standard configeration, wipping yellow flame front and rear, small blue flame at orifices.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. Pa
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    Cool

    ANSI stds require complete ignition of all burner ports within 4 seconds. If your unit does not meet this std., try contacting the mfr., who seems to have changed names several times. They appear to be trading as "HearthSense/ Procom" and are attending the HPBA EXPO in Atlanta. Try reaching them at 888-301-1115 or www.usaprocom.com . They also appear to have moved from Irvine, Ca to Placentia, Ca.

    Someone qualified needs to really go over these units. Gas pressures need to be checked at the appliance--not LP tank and they should be taken with just pilot and nothing else, burner lit, then any other appliances online. The unit needs to be closely inspected. For instance, if the primary air shutter is pinched, closed or compromised, that would explain why the gas is not trailing around the burner ports. The burner orifice, tube, etc. must be inspected and a direct manifold pressure taken downstream of the valve. There may be a blockage inside the valve. All these things require a skilled technician to check and record. Pics should be taken of the ignition sequence and sent to the mfr. along with model and serial #. Ultimately, they are responsible. If they do not respond appropriately, you can always refer the matter to the CPSC and UL or whomever was their test lab as they will be interested.

    HTH,
    Hearthman

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    1,383
    Quote Originally Posted by mdnbiker View Post
    Flame moves from right side of burner front to left. About 1/3 to 1/2 way around the bend it stops. Sometimes it will go on around after a brief pause, but most of the time it just sits there. I can't say for how long cause I turn unit off after about 30 seconds. Burner does run slightly uphill as it makes bend and goes back to right. The log over the bend is at least 1 1/2" above the burner, but if removed the burner will light quickly about 95% of the time and with a slight pause the other times. I haven't looked at photos posted other than to see if the unit was the same as I have, but mine has multiple slits in burner about a eight inch section, center front and rear, with small orifices connecting the slit sections. Probably a standard configeration, wipping yellow flame front and rear, small blue flame at orifices.

    The technical methids Hearthman is recommending would very likely isolate an exact cause for the problem.

    The usual reason for a flame to fail to light from port to port and stop the ignition sequence as described is that the burner is underfired somewhat, and perhaps doesn't have enough primary air because the primary air shutter is closed too much.

    But with unvented equipment, the risks of being wrong can have bad consequnces. Increasing the burner input might overfire the burner and cause carbon monoxide to be produced, for example.


    You really need a competent repairman to inspect and analyze the problem if you are going to use unvented equipment at all, which I recommend against.

    Just not worth the risks, in my opinion.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    anywhere I want to
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    I agree it is dangerous to use and have no intentions of using it. Most likely will remove and return. I had a tech from local lp retailer look as it with no success. Thats as fas as i am going with it. The cost is escalating out of control for this cheap unit.

  13. #26
    well... i actually i do have the same make and model... i havent sunk as much money, obviously.... im also thinking about returning it... let me know if any progress mdnbiker.... saniutza@yahoo.com

    i was just wondering if any of the technicians that looked at the fireplace tried to increase the gas valve flow to the burners?

    i've removed the 4th log and it operates very smoothly and lights right up...

    does anyone trully believe that taking the forth log out and trying to operate the fireplace its unsafe?

    and btw fellows i appologize, no one informed me that its against rules to provide dys information.... thanks

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