Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 14 to 26 of 31
  1. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    11,347

    *

    i agree valve down the water first!

    make sure reversing valve is shifting properly!

    also slow down the blower during heat cycles, which will bring up head/suction pressure while heating

    if that dont work, recover freon, replace metering devices, check water loop for scale!

    and there wont be much left for the refrigeration circuit!

    oh ya, dont let the customer intimidate you, remember it has never worked correctly!

    the buck stops with you if you play your cards right, then when you get it working the way its supposed to

    thats when you name your price!



    .

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    out in the country
    Posts
    633
    I was just rereading all the post, there is more info in your original post, the system never worked right, 11 yrs, split system.

    Most of the split system, ground source manufacturers do no build matched air handlers, they required a high eff. air handler with a TXV, I have seen many times, mismatched systems that you have to remove some of the refrigerant in the heat mode for it to operate.

    However I do not think that is you only problem, you may have multilpe problems, Seems to me your going to find that it is something that has a common problem with heat or cool. I still think your on the right track floating restriction, or moisture, possible wrong metering device at both ends.

    Go back and verfiy correct metering devices, always question other techs practices and abilities, not trying to slam other techs, everybody makes mistakes. just want you to cover all the bases.

    Like you said simple water source heatpump, don't over think it, most techs think they are more difficult, there just a little different, as alway good installation practices play a key role, clean, dry system, correct parts, never assume.

    good luck iso
    I never let schooling interfere with my education... Mark Twain

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,513
    ok you think water isnt the cause. it does need to be slowed down
    there is also the problem since this is a well system of iron build up inside the coil not alowing for heat transfer. I would start with cleaning the tubing with descaler or iron out.

    have to get beter temp differance in the water in and out

  4. #17
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Monmouth Junction-NJ-USA
    Posts
    5,996
    I hate to sound like I'm asking a dumb question------butttttt, are there 2 water inlet pressure regulating vavles on the system. I saw no mention of it. Just curious........
    If you really know how it works, you have an execellent chance of fixin' er up!

    Tomorrow is promised to no one...

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    2,266
    Quote Originally Posted by rayr View Post
    I hate to sound like I'm asking a dumb question------butttttt, are there 2 water inlet pressure regulating vavles on the system. I saw no mention of it. Just curious........
    Excellent question. There is only one 24v electric solinoid valve and one 1/4 turn pvc ball valve in the loop. We cannot vary the flow based on the mode.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    2,266
    It's wasn't the water flow or scale or anything to do with the water coil. It has to do with the desuperheater. If you guys want I'll give it up. Or you can keep trying.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,513
    ok give it up

  8. #21
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Monmouth Junction-NJ-USA
    Posts
    5,996
    Wait a minute. Any water source heat pump I have installed or serviced has 2 penn water regulating valves on it. One for head pressure (cooling) and one for suction pressure (heating). This is what controls the water flow. Am I missing something here??????
    If you really know how it works, you have an execellent chance of fixin' er up!

    Tomorrow is promised to no one...

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    86
    I’m not sure from your post if you’ve already solved this mystery. Perhaps you have and the facts presented are sufficient to solve the problem. However NOT being on site means we have no way to test our theories.

    Here are some of the key facts from what I see.

    1) ‘Never worked right from day one.’ That seems to rule out scaling, iron, bacteriologic, or any other contamination of the system IF it was properly flushed.

    2) ‘The system has the correct charge as per nameplate.’

    3) EWT 50ºF, LWT 49ºF.

    4) Cooling/heating system operates normally for 10 min.

    5) 2HP @ 70psi into 1 1/2” pipe.

    I would like to know more about the system than the info provided.

    • Make/Model #?
    • I would like to know more details about this ‘remote desuperheater’ and the DHW system. Is there a HW buffer tank?

    • I would like to know more about how and where the well water is discharged. Returning water to the same well could cool the water off so much as to shut the HP off on it’s low pressure/temperature safety control.

    • What’s the distance between the supply and discharge wells?
    • Are there any Dole valves included in this installation?
    • Was there a start-up log on site?
    • What are the Reynolds numbers for this system?

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    48
    Did the original installer leave out the check valve at the TXV location?
    Class of 70

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    2,266
    Quote Originally Posted by rayr View Post
    Wait a minute. Any water source heat pump I have installed or serviced has 2 penn water regulating valves on it. One for head pressure (cooling) and one for suction pressure (heating). This is what controls the water flow. Am I missing something here??????
    You're dead on right but the installers only installed one solinoid, one balancing valve, however this was not the cause of the problem.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    2,266
    Quote Originally Posted by tuckerin View Post
    Did the original installer leave out the check valve at the TXV location?
    oh man that's a great guess but no.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    2,266
    Quote Originally Posted by fsq4cw View Post
    I’m not sure from your post if you’ve already solved this mystery. Perhaps you have and the facts presented are sufficient to solve the problem. However NOT being on site means we have no way to test our theories.

    Here are some of the key facts from what I see.

    1) ‘Never worked right from day one.’ That seems to rule out scaling, iron, bacteriologic, or any other contamination of the system IF it was properly flushed.

    2) ‘The system has the correct charge as per nameplate.’

    3) EWT 50ºF, LWT 49ºF.

    4) Cooling/heating system operates normally for 10 min.

    5) 2HP @ 70psi into 1 1/2” pipe.

    I would like to know more about the system than the info provided.

    • Make/Model #?
    • I would like to know more details about this ‘remote desuperheater’ and the DHW system. Is there a HW buffer tank?

    • I would like to know more about how and where the well water is discharged. Returning water to the same well could cool the water off so much as to shut the HP off on it’s low pressure/temperature safety control.

    • What’s the distance between the supply and discharge wells?
    • Are there any Dole valves included in this installation?
    • Was there a start-up log on site?
    • What are the Reynolds numbers for this system?

    Yes I did figure this out the same day. Obviously a huge advantage being on site.

    The remote desuperheater is nothing more than a remote mounted hot gas to water heat exchanger. The exchanger is 10 feet away from the compressor. Please check the cave drawing The desuperheater is also mounted about 6 feet above the compressor elevation. There are two service valves at the tees that serve the desuperheater (forgot to draw them) No buffer tank. One 1/4 turn pvc ball valve on the discharge line. The water discharge is some kind of pit filled with gravel. The old man wasn't really clear about the discharge method. There was no pond or creek around. He did say that the discharge was well away from the water source well. My source water temp never fell below 50 deg. No start up log. I cannot determine the GPM so no renolds numbers but I can tell you that the flow has to be turbulent.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event