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Thread: Dye Leak Test

  1. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    546
    I don't like the crap! in my gauges!!!!
    rick

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    23

    Thumbs up

    You never perform a service call that you don't put LEAK LOCK on the flare cap or any thing else you open up. Stops most thread related leaks.

  3. #29
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,371
    I was lucky enough to catch it in defrost just recently and found what appeared to be some green-colored liquid at the bottom of the inside of the unit (near compressor and refrigerant tubes). Everything seems to be pretty wet. It runs quieter (this makes sense as the freon lubricates the compressor and parts). The tech is coming back tonight to finish things up (I hope). Thanks everyone.

    I will talk to him about the shraeder valves and the possibility of residual dye (I wasn't there when he found them to be leaking (BOTH of them, one of which he replaced). I think it's ridiculous because every time he's come out they have been leaking I think.

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Hell Hole Swamp
    Posts
    4,180
    Claiming the shraeder valves are leaking is a cop out, most if not all of them will leak a small amount, thats why there are caps on them, a good set of caps solves that problem, you almost certainly have a leak elsewhere.

    You need a new service tech, as I posted before, one with the proper tools to do the job

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    12,175
    Quote Originally Posted by Flare Nut View Post
    You never perform a service call that you don't put LEAK LOCK on the flare cap or any thing else you open up. Stops most thread related leaks.
    O-rings work wonders.
    Perhaps you should have read the instructions before calling.

  6. #32
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,371
    It was really evident where the leak was. Dye was all over the place around the muffler on the high side, so that's why it was leaking so fast. I'll be using emergency heat again for a while until the part gets ordered and replaced. I like the fact that the company is working toward a solution, though. The service agreement has been great to have so far. So I know proper procedure, would he just pump down the system, replace the muffler and rebraze, and replace the filter drier? He said he would replace the filter drier when I asked him about it, so that's good I think.

  7. #33
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,371
    Oh yeah, and what does it mean if there's a frosty/icy build-up on the bottom half of my accumulator (at least when I saw it earlier)? Is this a sign the outdoor unit was leaking out the freon?

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Grottoes VA
    Posts
    5,856
    Quote Originally Posted by RyanHughes View Post
    Oh yeah, and what does it mean if there's a frosty/icy build-up on the bottom half of my accumulator (at least when I saw it earlier)? Is this a sign the outdoor unit was leaking out the freon?
    The accumulator stores liquid refrigerant until it can boil off and be absorbed back into the system. The white line in the accumulator is the level of liquid.
    Karst means cave. So, I search for caves.

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    I'm on the road to Shambala
    Posts
    249
    I use dye as a last resort when I can't find the leak any other way and I can't shut down the unit and do an isolation test.

    More than once with dye the leak has seemed to stop for some time (if you had to charge it several times) then you get a call and it needs charged again.

    I tell the customer that we have to check it at nite and the may be a overtime charge.

    The dye can be a PITA but you can find leaks with it. It's just not my first choice.
    Scooter

    UA Local 630
    West Palm Beach, Florida
    RSES
    FL. Class A License

    www.enterpriseaire.com

  10. #36
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,371
    Thanks.

    Question for pros:

    If you were to replace a muffler and rebraze to fix a leak, what would your procedure be afterward to ensure everything is running correctly? Recharge, replace filter drier, pressure test, etc.

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