Heat Pump - Nothing But Problems - Page 2
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  1. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,368
    The capacitor was replaced on the last call after it was found to be bad. The fan seems to run normally, but it will continue to run when the compressor does not run. The fan turns off when it is in defrost mode. Earlier, the heat pump turned on then shortly later cycled on and off and continued running. I'm not sure, but it's been having very strange behavior ever since it's gotten cold out it seems. Over the summer it worked great. I'd like to change out the whole system with a matched one that's quieter and more efficient, but if it's not 100% needed and I can have this heat pump repaired, I don't think I can do it. The heat pump is from 2004 and the air handler is from this summer. I can't take the temperature of the air coming out of the ducts now since I gave the technician his thermostat that he left here the call before back, but from what I feel it is not at all as warm as it should be.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    6,285
    You said this is a PH10 correct? When it cuts out do you hear aloud switch. The PH10'sI work on make a very audible click when the low pressure kicks out if that's what you think it is.


    Normally it going out on low pressure it won't come back on unless the switch is bad and getting stuck. If it's low on ref. it could be cutting out on thermal overload. Again it wouldn't normally start right back up until it cooled off. Is water steaming off the top of the compressor rapidly when it cuts out? You shouldn't be going out on high pressure unless your fan isn't moving enough air, filters clogged or coil is clogged. You have a bigger inside coil than would be recommended (13 SEER correct?) It should easily be able to reject the heat as long as you have the correct airflow.

    It could be a loose connection or low voltage. Do you have a cycle protector on it if you know? I'm leaning towards something electrical causing it to cycle and then shutoff for the given period that is of course if it isn't a leak.
    Last edited by BigJon3475; 12-02-2007 at 10:00 PM.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,368
    PH10JA042-C I think (off the top of my head). I don't ever recall hearing an audible click. I am questioning if the bad capacitor really caused all this since it is happening again with a new capacitor (not to say the bad capacitor didn't contribute to the issue). I have confidence in the company I use and the technician, but I feel like calling them back for yet a second callback after they were just here Friday is a bit annoying. I'll take a look at what it's doing tomorrow and see. Question: does all of this sound like a bad compressor, low freon charge, or something out? If any of you guys have a notion of what the problem may be, please let me know. The compressor makes a horrible noise when it runs... like a somewhat high-pitched grinding. The Payne is loud as it is, but this sticks out. By the way, when the contractor did his final check on his gauges, I was standing there. I saw somewhere from 50 to 60 on the low side and somewhere from 150 to 200 on the high side if memory serves me right. Also, he mentioned an 8 degree superheat reading on the service sheet. Does any of this impact your thinking? Somehow the house is staying 70 (with the heat pump running a lot) without the use of auxiliary heat to help. I'm guessing this is just luck from the system sometimes blowing warm enough air to maintain 70.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Beautiful, Philadelphia, the City of Brotherly Love!
    Posts
    1,089

    You must be made of money, you think a 3 year old heat pump and a new blower need

    be replaced already?

    What was the reason for your original call to the service company?
    A bad run capacitor could be possible as the 370 volt caps seem to have a very short life, but that was changed on the second call.
    The freon leak was caused by the tech. You stated a bad shraeder, this would not have caused a leak if the service cap had been installed properly. Assuming the cap was installed properly, there was no leak mentioned at that call, yes?.

    Noise is caused by liquid slugging, or overloading of compressor. I would look to that new air handler as the possible cause of the problem. What is the temperature change before and after the coil? Is the airflow out of the ducts normal? Have the tech measure the pressure drop over the coil.

    Payne units are bottom of the line, they have no sound proofing, do not confuse the sound of winter operation with the sound of summer operation, they will be different.

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