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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    I have worked on a system that had issues in 1st stage because it was incorrectly wired to have only 50% airflow, so I wouldn't recommend it.

    I do have one customer that has an XL16i that does dehumidification on demand in both stages though.
    It took some funky dip switch settings, and a couple of relays spliced into the 16 pin harness to the motor module though.

    For a given max airflow setting, there are 16 available airflows in 5% increments from 25% through 100%. The trick is figuring out how to manipulate the inputs to the motor module to take advantage of them all.
    Best left to someone who has a full understanding of how the controls work. I wouldn't try to go down that rout with someone who has a hard time getting it wired the way the instructions specify.

    Someone that was really sharp with electronics could even build something to interpret the thermostat inputs and directly control the blower with a PWM signal to get the desired airflow for each stage and mode of operation.
    I'm not that sharp, so I stick to dip switch settings and relays, and only that one time for a special customer.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by mark beiser View Post
    I have worked on a system that had issues in 1st stage because it was incorrectly wired to have only 50% airflow, so I wouldn't recommend it.
    The difference, perhaps, is that I'm only proposing 50% during calls for dehumidification. It would normally run at 80%. Still, point noted

    I do have one customer that has an XL16i that does dehumidification on demand in both stages though.
    It took some funky dip switch settings, and a couple of relays spliced into the 16 pin harness to the motor module though.

    For a given max airflow setting, there are 16 available airflows in 5% increments from 25% through 100%. The trick is figuring out how to manipulate the inputs to the motor module to take advantage of them all.
    Best left to someone who has a full understanding of how the controls work. I wouldn't try to go down that rout with someone who has a hard time getting it wired the way the instructions specify.
    I agree, I wouldn't dream of asking my contractor to contemplate such a thing. That is definitely not his cup of tea.

    Given my electronics & computer background, it *is* the kind of project I would enjoy -- for anything other than HVAC. I like home-brew projects, but not when mistakes can have such serious consequences. The farthest I might ever go is setting up a computer with some optoisolated inputs to log the behavior of my system, just to see what that IAQ stat is *really* up to. But that's "read-only", if you know what I mean.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by second opinion View Post
    Any pic's ?
    I'll take some and try to figure out how to post 'em. Any quick pointers?

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    47
    Never mind, photobucket is simple. Here are some pictures. I didn't take any outside 'cause it's very cold and windy right now.






  5. #18
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    DC Metro Area (MD)
    Posts
    3,369
    Nice-looking install. Are the refrigerant lines new?

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas,NV
    Posts
    744
    Some of the install looks o.k. I hate foil tape, and the homemade supports for the intake and exhaust dont look very appealing.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by RyanHughes View Post
    Nice-looking install. Are the refrigerant lines new?
    Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by sammy37 View Post
    Some of the install looks o.k. I hate foil tape, and the homemade supports for the intake and exhaust dont look very appealing.
    I'm assuming you mean aesthetically. Functionally, his purpose was to reduce vibration, and it seems to do that pretty well.

    What do people typically use instead of foil tape? Mastic?

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    47

    Condensate question

    While we're looking at pictures, you may notice that two wires from the condensate pump that are intended to interrupt operation if the pump fails are not connected.

    He told me he'd wire it up either way, but that for an unfinished basement like mine where potential damage from water is minimal, he preferred to have the system keep heating the house (and dump water on the concrete), rather than cutting off the heat. At the time, I told him to do whatever he thought best.

    I'm wondering what folks here think.

    I also have a larger question about the way my condensate system works. That pump takes water from coil, furnace, and humidifier, and dumps it into a pipe that slopes down around the perimeter of my basement, ending up in a sump hole. Then there's a sump pump in the bottom of that hole that periodically pumps water *up* into another, larger pipe, which ends up outside at ground level.

    How do people here feel about that system? Both pumps currently work, of course. In the winter, with the humidifier running, they're both very necessary. Should I be concerned about the fact that there are two points of failure?

    Should I start a new topic for this?

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,058
    You shouldn't have any vibration from the pvc. The aluminum tape is fine if installed correctly. Clean surface,pressed tight,straight etc.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,058
    That set up is actually a good one. Most sump pumps fail from lack of excercize. I would still wire the safety switch. Make sure the termination outside is clear to drain when pumped.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
    Posts
    11,347

    *

    Quote Originally Posted by dbb1 View Post
    While we're looking at pictures, you may notice that two wires from the condensate pump that are intended to interrupt operation if the pump fails are not connected.He told me he'd wire it up either way, but that for an unfinished basement like mine where potential damage from water is minimal, he preferred to have the system keep heating the house (and dump water on the concrete), rather than cutting off the heat. At the time, I told him to do whatever he thought best.

    he should of (atleast) broke the control circuit to the condenser with the condensate overflow safety switch

    you would still have the furnace for heat if the condensate pump failed!



    .

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by Airmechanical View Post
    he should of (atleast) broke the control circuit to the condenser with the condensate overflow safety switch

    you would still have the furnace for heat if the condensate pump failed!
    I see. Rather than shutting off the whole system, just shut off the heat pump (and the humidifier, since that produces the most water). Then you only have to worry about condensate from the furnace itself, which is presumably minimal compared to the others.

    Have I understood you correctly? Would this be easy for him to wire up? It isn't obvious to me how he'd interrupt both the HP and the humidifier, without using additional relays.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas,NV
    Posts
    744
    I guess I shouldnt have been so harsh about the foil tape, I just dont like it because alot of times it gets used by hacks to cover up ill fitting connections. I worked for a company once that must have owned stock in a foil tape company! There sheet metal work was crappy and all of the imperfections were covered with foil tape. I have not used it since. Second opinion is correct, at least the foil tape on yours was used in a decent manner.

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