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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21

    Humidifier Configurations

    After my last post regarding not getting enough humidification in my old leaky house from a newly installed Aprilaire 600 (and reading other posts), I am going to call my installer and ask that the wiring be changed so that the humidifer can run when the fan is blowing on "continuous" or on "fan on."

    An additional configuration question. My controls are set for Manual, but I read in one of the posts that configuring the unit for Automatice may increase the humidification up to 40%. Is this true? If so, I'll have this done as well, but I'm curious if this has beem people's experiences, because it probably won't be cheap to make this change.

    Last question. My house is not only a bit leaky (though we've insulated and put on new storms) but the venting is quite old so probabley not optimally set up and the returns are very insufficient; I'm wondering if this has an impact on getting adequate whole house humidification?
    We all have respiratory issues that the dry air affects, so I'm trying to get it right.
    THANKS

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Zelienople, Pa
    Posts
    2,965
    You should've bought a steam humidifier if there were health issues involved.
    How tall are you Private???!!!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,677
    Quote Originally Posted by smeltings View Post
    After my last post regarding not getting enough humidification in my old leaky house from a newly installed Aprilaire 600 (and reading other posts), I am going to call my installer and ask that the wiring be changed so that the humidifer can run when the fan is blowing on "continuous" or on "fan on."

    An additional configuration question. My controls are set for Manual, but I read in one of the posts that configuring the unit for Automatice may increase the humidification up to 40%. Is this true? If so, I'll have this done as well, but I'm curious if this has beem people's experiences, because it probably won't be cheap to make this change.

    Last question. My house is not only a bit leaky (though we've insulated and put on new storms) but the venting is quite old so probabley not optimally set up and the returns are very insufficient; I'm wondering if this has an impact on getting adequate whole house humidification?
    We all have respiratory issues that the dry air affects, so I'm trying to get it right.
    THANKS
    To switch to automatic, they will need to be able to get a wire to an outside wall for a sensor, if this is not possible you are stuck with the manual jumper.
    You can't fix stupid

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    7,680
    Quote Originally Posted by smeltings View Post
    After my last post regarding not getting enough humidification in my old leaky house from a newly installed Aprilaire 600 (and reading other posts), I am going to call my installer and ask that the wiring be changed so that the humidifer can run when the fan is blowing on "continuous" or on "fan on."
    That will not work. The warm air is required to absorb the moisture.
    An additional configuration question. My controls are set for Manual, but I read in one of the posts that configuring the unit for Automatice may increase the humidification up to 40%. Is this true? If so, I'll have this done as well, but I'm curious if this has beem people's experiences, because it probably won't be cheap to make this change.

    Last question. My house is not only a bit leaky (though we've insulated and put on new storms) but the venting is quite old so probabley not optimally set up and the returns are very insufficient; I'm wondering if this has an impact on getting adequate whole house humidification?
    We all have respiratory issues that the dry air affects, so I'm trying to get it right.
    THANKS
    Yes, a leaky house will run lower humidity when it's cold outside. Lets say its 35 degrees outside with 50% reletive humidity. Your house is at say 70 degrees. If you bring that 50% RH 35 degree air inside and warm it to 70, your new RH will be next to nothing... around 13%...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,677
    if you have it hooked to the hot water it will work, not effieciently, but it will humidify. If water line isn't on hot water side already, moving it will improve the capacity enough to maybe not have it on with the fan on cont.
    You can't fix stupid

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,915
    Quote Originally Posted by smeltings View Post
    I am going to call my installer and ask that the wiring be changed so that the humidifer can run when the fan is blowing on "continuous" or on "fan on."
    If you have duct leakage issues and a leaky house, doing this may actually make your humidity control worse.

    Fix the problem, fix the house. More humidification is just a bandaid.

    Fixing the house will also result in energy savings for the life of the home.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by mark beiser View Post
    If you have duct leakage issues and a leaky house, doing this may actually make your humidity control worse.

    Fix the problem, fix the house. More humidification is just a bandaid.

    Fixing the house will also result in energy savings for the life of the home.
    THANKS.
    The ducts aren't leaky, but are inefficient in maintaining even flows through the house: some trunks share registers with downstairs and upstairs, or share with registers on the same floor, sizing is questionable. However, the only true remedy seems to be ripping out the walls to redo the venting and to add returns. Unfortunately this is not feasible. So, we're trying to make things work within our budget (2 quotes for steam heat were $3,000!)
    Air infiltration is a problem, but we had insulation blown into the walls and the attic, and put on new top quality storm windows, caulked as best we could. This old house doesn't have a barrier behind the clapboards but ripping off the clapboards to install something like tyvec is just too expensive. I'm not sure if this fact affected construction that leads to continued leakiness, but the structure was initially build over 150 yrs ago as a barn.

    So, with the Aprilaire 600 set on manual and the temperature kept low so the heat output is reduced, the air is still uncomfortably dry. When I step outside and breathe in the cold outside air it feels like my nostrils are taking in a big glass of water to a parched throat. The problem only occurs when the heat is running so I figured now that we've tackled the air infiltration the best we can, the next step is to increase the humidity level of the hot air being produced by the furnace. Make sense?
    So, to do so, is it right that my next steps would be to make sure that the humidifier is being fed by the hot water supply, and then to have the unit wired to run when the fan is blowing on continuous to keep the humidification process more continuous and even?

    Sorry for the long note. I am trying to understand and the dynamics of humidification/heat/air all seems fairly complicated to me.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    2,677
    pretty much, the hot water will increase the capacity of the unit, and running continuous fan will keep it going on off cycles of the heat.
    You can't fix stupid

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