does carrier infinity control humidity better?

[Kevenater]

Does the carrier infinity actually control humidity better than other brands? I'm looking at probably getting this unit in 16 seer. I live in north alabama and we have pretty hot, humid summers here. Carrier and bryant uses this as a selling point, i'm just wondering if it's any better than other brands concerning humidity. The infinity control seems pretty cool from what I've read on here from people who have them. Oh, and one more thing, of the 3 companies I've had come out so far, none of them have done a manual J, they just measure the length/width of the house, look around inside and say its fifteen hundred so and so sq. feet and tell me I need a 3 ton hp. I've pretty much decided on the one I'm gonna use, since they will buy my oversized 4.0 goodman(never used) I stupidly bought on ebay a while back without researching heat pumps! They have VERY good written service contracts/guarantees that nobody else around here can touch so far. Thanks for any help or advice!!

[york_hvac]

In short, yes the Infinity System does do a great job of controlling humidity in both the summer and winter. A very nice system, if it is properly installed! I recomend that you keep looking around for another company that is willing to do a Manual J. It is the best way to size the system to your house.
BTW, if you want a (long, detailed) explanation of how Infinity works, look here (Scroll down):
http://www.hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthr...=115371&page=5

[mayguy]

if you are going with all Carrier equipment, then go for it...

If you are going with the others with variable speed, then look into the Honeywell IAQ t-stat.

[Kevenater]

I've read so much about proper installation on here, but how do you know if somebody is doing it right? There is no exact science from my readings on here, with all of the "professionals" fussing back and forth so much about this and that. Just too many variables I guess. I haven't asked any of them to do a manual J, just noticed that none of them have done one. but I definately will require it before I give a company the go ahead. Thanks for the reply york!!!!!!!!!

[RyanHughes]

In short, yes the Infinity System does do a great job of controlling humidity in both the summer and winter. A very nice system, if it is properly installed! I recomend that you keep looking around for another company that is willing to do a Manual J. It is the best way to size the system to your house.
BTW, if you want a (long, detailed) explanation of how Infinity works, look here (Scroll down):
http://www.hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthr...=115371&page=5

I'm curious: Why does york_hvac have Carrier systems?

[Kevenater]

I kinda wondered that same thing ryanhughes lol

[dash]

Does the carrier infinity actually control humidity better than other brands? I'm looking at probably getting this unit in 16 seer. I live in north alabama and we have pretty hot, humid summers here. Carrier and bryant uses this as a selling point, i'm just wondering if it's any better than other brands concerning humidity. The infinity control seems pretty cool from what I've read on here from people who have them. Oh, and one more thing, of the 3 companies I've had come out so far, none of them have done a manual J, they just measure the length/width of the house, look around inside and say its fifteen hundred so and so sq. feet and tell me I need a 3 ton hp. I've pretty much decided on the one I'm gonna use, since they will buy my oversized 4.0 goodman(never used) I stupidly bought on ebay a while back without researching heat pumps! They have VERY good written service contracts/guarantees that nobody else around here can touch so far. Thanks for any help or advice!!

YES

[teddy bear]

Would you install the Goodman unit if the installing contractor would assure you perfect humidity control? Regards TB

[docholiday]

All 16 SEER systems on the market have a humidity control of some sort. Dont be fooled. And if you live in North Alabama, you better be looking at EER, not SEER. SEER is a mild weather reading and last time I was in Alabama, the weather there his hardly mild.

SEER is taken at 80 inside, and 82 outside. EER is 95 outside and 80 inside. Unfortunately, that silly yellow tag doesn not tell you that. If you want the truth about 2 stage SEER, you will be unhappy to find out that using the "bin" method, 66% of the weighted calculations come from when the weather is 77 degrees or below outside. Frankly at below 77 degrees, all air conditioners are efficient because they are OFF! Only about 7% of the weighted calculations come from above 87.You live there, you decide which is more important to you.

Keep doing your homework and dont watch the commercials.

[Kevenater]

Where do I find out the EER rating on the unit? and if its a good rating or not? and yes to teddy bear, I would install the Goodman I have if it wasn't way too big for my house, and if somebody would install it and back it up since I bought it off ebay like an idiot lol. Thanks for the responses!!

[york_hvac]

I'm curious: Why does york_hvac have Carrier systems?

Before I moved, I had York equipment that I REALLY liked. 1994 Diamond 80 never needed a new ignitor in 11+ years!

[docholiday]

You find the EER rating at the ARI web site if they are not published in the spec sheets. You need to know the air handler or furnace along with the coil being used. Recent changes to the law require these numbers being published because SEER was so misleading that people assumed it meant efficiency. It did OK for straight air, but with a HP and AC with 2 stages, it's misleading.

http://www.aridirectory.org/ari/unitary.html

[teddy bear]

and yes to teddy bear, I would install the Goodman I have if it wasn't way too big for my house, and if somebody would install it and back it up since I bought it off ebay like an idiot lol. Thanks for the responses!!

First, you must be punish for buying a/c from ebay. Second, a smaller single speed a/c will remove more moisture because of less cycling during shoulder season. A two speed a/c will do even better. But the best of these will not provide dehumidification without significant cooling loads. I realize you folks have drought now. Also, you need 75cfm of fresh air infiltration/vintilation to purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen. With occupant generated moisture and moisture in fresh air, 75-100 lbs./day of moisture must be removed from the home. But during your more normal rainy, cool, damp weather (spring-fall), and normal fresh air infiltration, the best a/c does not operate enough to remove 75-100 lbs. to maintain 50%RH.


This graphic, thanks to Bill and U of SO FL shows the cool down and moisture removal of a typical a/c coil. Every time you cycle the coil, you lose moisture removal for a couple minutes until the coil reaches dew point. Smaller system have fewer cycles, therefore a higher percentage of latent cooling or moisture removal.

During you hot days, the 4 ton a/c with a 75% duty cycle for 10 hours has 7 hours of operating time. 4 ton removes 12 lbs. of moisture per hour operating 100%. Cycling on a 75% cycle may reduce moisture 20% or 9 lbs. per hour. This is enough cooling to maintain low humidity

As the load decreases the cycles increase and moisture removal ratio declines. The more sophisticated system reduce the compressor capacity and air flow on the a/c coil to reduce short cycling. Finally, over-cooling is used to continue operating to control relative humidity. When outdoor temps are low enough, the a/c must cycle while waiting for more cooling load. This type of humidity control is inefficient and uncomfortable.
A whole house dehumidifier will maintain low relative humidity regardless the size of a/c, the indoor temperature, or the cooling load. I do not encourage gross over-sizing, but an extra ton of a/c will make your home cool on the hottest days and when you have vistors. Another benefit is to use energy saving t-stat set-up when your home is routinely unoccupied. The extra ton provides cool down in a reasonable time. Many inferences are made by all of us. You need a little fresh and good humidity control. Supplemental dehumdification is needed away. Buy a whole house dehumidifier, pay extra for your installation of your Goodman, and have perfect humidity control. Or... Keep us posted. Regards, TB

[Kevenater]

is 12.60 a pretty good EER rating?

[RyanHughes]

is 12.60 a pretty good EER rating?

Yes, I would consider that very good. What combination is giving that? If you look at a good number of combinations, you'll find them to be lower than 12 actually.

[OlManRivah]

I live in Virgina along a river. I have an 19I Infinity with 2 stage compressor and var air handler. Mine is a 3 ton serving 1600 sq ft. It handled the humdity fine with the default setting of 45%. This is adjustable with the Infinity.

[Kevenater]

So the lower the EER the better? I thought the higher the better. It's a carrier infinity 16 model 25hna636a30, fan coil is FE4ANB006+Ul. not sure what the UL stands for, only 3 of their fan coils have this on the end of the model number. the seer is 16.50 eer is 12.60, hspf is 9.0

[docholiday]

No the higher the EER the better. That is pretty good there.

Im not sure off hand What UL (in this case) stands for, but the + sign means you have to use that air handler and add a "UL". The product data will tell you what this means or one of the Carrier guys can tell you. You should know that if you dont add it, the efficiency ratings will likely go down. How much requires further investigation. Adding some devices to get effeiciency can sacrafice comfort. Not knowing what a UL is, I wouldnt make that a blanket statement.

[docholiday]

update... Here is the Product Data.... FYI. I dont see it requiring a UL in there.
http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/gr...e=PdfHighlight

[teddy bear]

I live in Virgina along a river. I have an 19I Infinity with 2 stage compressor and var air handler. Mine is a 3 ton serving 1600 sq ft. It handled the humdity fine with the default setting of 45%. This is adjustable with the Infinity.

Just curious, how much fresh air ventilation do you bring into your home and how do you do it? Also how many occupants? Crawlspace or basement? ASHRAE recommends 50-75 cfm of fresh air ventilation to purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen. I would expect 70-80 lbs. per day of moisture load. Eliminating the fresh air ventilation/infiltration makes humidity control easier.

With low occupancy, air tight construction, long wet, cool stretches, and no fresh air ventilation, maintaining low humidity is possible with the more complex a/cs. With supplemental dehumidification, it's possible to have fresh air ventilation during wet cool weather without making your home damp. Regards TB