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11-16-2007, 06:26 PM #1
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does carrier infinity control humidity better?
Does the carrier infinity actually control humidity better than other brands? I'm looking at probably getting this unit in 16 seer. I live in north alabama and we have pretty hot, humid summers here. Carrier and bryant uses this as a selling point, i'm just wondering if it's any better than other brands concerning humidity. The infinity control seems pretty cool from what I've read on here from people who have them. Oh, and one more thing, of the 3 companies I've had come out so far, none of them have done a manual J, they just measure the length/width of the house, look around inside and say its fifteen hundred so and so sq. feet and tell me I need a 3 ton hp. I've pretty much decided on the one I'm gonna use, since they will buy my oversized 4.0 goodman(never used) I stupidly bought on ebay a while back without researching heat pumps! They have VERY good written service contracts/guarantees that nobody else around here can touch so far. Thanks for any help or advice!!
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11-16-2007, 07:11 PM #2
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In short, yes the Infinity System does do a great job of controlling humidity in both the summer and winter. A very nice system, if it is properly installed! I recomend that you keep looking around for another company that is willing to do a Manual J. It is the best way to size the system to your house.
BTW, if you want a (long, detailed) explanation of how Infinity works, look here (Scroll down):
http://www.hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthr...=115371&page=5
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11-16-2007, 09:15 PM #3
if you are going with all Carrier equipment, then go for it...
If you are going with the others with variable speed, then look into the Honeywell IAQ t-stat.
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11-16-2007, 09:19 PM #4
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I've read so much about proper installation on here, but how do you know if somebody is doing it right? There is no exact science from my readings on here, with all of the "professionals" fussing back and forth so much about this and that. Just too many variables I guess. I haven't asked any of them to do a manual J, just noticed that none of them have done one. but I definately will require it before I give a company the go ahead. Thanks for the reply york!!!!!!!!!
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11-16-2007, 11:52 PM #5
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11-17-2007, 08:47 AM #6
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I kinda wondered that same thing ryanhughes lol
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11-17-2007, 08:53 PM #7
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11-18-2007, 10:04 AM #8
Would you install the Goodman unit if the installing contractor would assure you perfect humidity control? Regards TB
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
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11-18-2007, 01:38 PM #9
All 16 SEER systems on the market have a humidity control of some sort. Dont be fooled. And if you live in North Alabama, you better be looking at EER, not SEER. SEER is a mild weather reading and last time I was in Alabama, the weather there his hardly mild.
SEER is taken at 80 inside, and 82 outside. EER is 95 outside and 80 inside. Unfortunately, that silly yellow tag doesn not tell you that. If you want the truth about 2 stage SEER, you will be unhappy to find out that using the "bin" method, 66% of the weighted calculations come from when the weather is 77 degrees or below outside. Frankly at below 77 degrees, all air conditioners are efficient because they are OFF! Only about 7% of the weighted calculations come from above 87.You live there, you decide which is more important to you.
Keep doing your homework and dont watch the commercials.
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11-18-2007, 06:12 PM #10
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Where do I find out the EER rating on the unit? and if its a good rating or not? and yes to teddy bear, I would install the Goodman I have if it wasn't way too big for my house, and if somebody would install it and back it up since I bought it off ebay like an idiot lol. Thanks for the responses!!
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11-18-2007, 07:43 PM #11
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11-19-2007, 09:19 AM #12
You find the EER rating at the ARI web site if they are not published in the spec sheets. You need to know the air handler or furnace along with the coil being used. Recent changes to the law require these numbers being published because SEER was so misleading that people assumed it meant efficiency. It did OK for straight air, but with a HP and AC with 2 stages, it's misleading.
http://www.aridirectory.org/ari/unitary.html
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11-19-2007, 12:59 PM #13
First, you must be punish for buying a/c from ebay. Second, a smaller single speed a/c will remove more moisture because of less cycling during shoulder season. A two speed a/c will do even better. But the best of these will not provide dehumidification without significant cooling loads. I realize you folks have drought now. Also, you need 75cfm of fresh air infiltration/vintilation to purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen. With occupant generated moisture and moisture in fresh air, 75-100 lbs./day of moisture must be removed from the home. But during your more normal rainy, cool, damp weather (spring-fall), and normal fresh air infiltration, the best a/c does not operate enough to remove 75-100 lbs. to maintain 50%RH.

This graphic, thanks to Bill and U of SO FL shows the cool down and moisture removal of a typical a/c coil. Every time you cycle the coil, you lose moisture removal for a couple minutes until the coil reaches dew point. Smaller system have fewer cycles, therefore a higher percentage of latent cooling or moisture removal.
During you hot days, the 4 ton a/c with a 75% duty cycle for 10 hours has 7 hours of operating time. 4 ton removes 12 lbs. of moisture per hour operating 100%. Cycling on a 75% cycle may reduce moisture 20% or 9 lbs. per hour. This is enough cooling to maintain low humidity
As the load decreases the cycles increase and moisture removal ratio declines. The more sophisticated system reduce the compressor capacity and air flow on the a/c coil to reduce short cycling. Finally, over-cooling is used to continue operating to control relative humidity. When outdoor temps are low enough, the a/c must cycle while waiting for more cooling load. This type of humidity control is inefficient and uncomfortable.
A whole house dehumidifier will maintain low relative humidity regardless the size of a/c, the indoor temperature, or the cooling load. I do not encourage gross over-sizing, but an extra ton of a/c will make your home cool on the hottest days and when you have vistors. Another benefit is to use energy saving t-stat set-up when your home is routinely unoccupied. The extra ton provides cool down in a reasonable time. Many inferences are made by all of us. You need a little fresh and good humidity control. Supplemental dehumdification is needed away. Buy a whole house dehumidifier, pay extra for your installation of your Goodman, and have perfect humidity control. Or... Keep us posted. Regards, TBBear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"


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