Which models of Goodman have the jumper between R and O in the air handler that has to be removed for heatpump operation? I'm not sure, but I have ran across a couple of them this past summer.
I would call back the contractor.something for sure is not right with this unit /instalation.
at 45f you should not even need back up heatstrips.could be low on refrigerant or like other posters said uninsulated ducts .
Which models of Goodman have the jumper between R and O in the air handler that has to be removed for heatpump operation? I'm not sure, but I have ran across a couple of them this past summer.
had that happen to me this summer, hooked up my 3rd HP ever and when I flipped it to cool it was in HP mode and blasted very hot air. I was going through a zone panel so was a bit difficult to wire, but I eventually got it figured out. That is why we to fire up systems in ALL modes of operation before we leave the jobsite. If it is too late that day, come back the next and fire up all other modes. Most hard feelings between techs and customers come from sloppy techniques, if this guy would have tested it when he was there, he would have caught it, might have took a call or 2 or some head scratching, but it would have worked from the start.
You can't fix stupid
Glad to hear your HP cold air problem was resolved because I was worried reading about it since I too am about to replace my 20yr old propane Carrier furnace that is killing me at $700/month in a 2200sf house well insulated house (furnace cycling problem though which didn't help $$), so I am concerned about yours and others' postings indicated HP's blow cold!!!! Like you, I am about to go all electric since propane is over $2/gal and I read going 20% higher. Electric here in KS is $.07/kwh summer but only $.047 special elec rate for HP users for 8 months of yr. This should reduce my fuel costs by 75%. BTW Natural gas isn't available
For the pro's and the curious, I have internet researched to death and had many bids (most quite diff in price and diff size equip!) , so am settling on all LENNOX: 3ton XP 16SEER 2-stage HP w/a variable speed air handler w/20kw heat strip. I am also having them wrap the ducts in my unfinished basement and going with 3 zones since I have 2 BR up in half story that roast in summer and my MBR downstairs....this way the 2 sleeping zones can run comfortably at night while the 3rd zone (Kitchen, FR, DR) can have reduced HVAC needs at night.
Suggestions? Anything else to think of so I don't have regrets that I didn't do something? Anything weird/unique about these Lennox models to watch for as they do the work? I am still shocked at how far off bids for similar equipment were, and how wide a range of equipment size the various companies recommended for my house. All the way up to a 4 ton 15SEER w/ 30KW strip!!
Thanks for all the informative posts
I might recommend a 4-ton 2-stage HP with maximum of 15 kW / 51,000 BTUh (perhaps 10kW ... 34,100 BTUh) depending on what an actual Load Analysis told me.
Did you receive a Manual J Load Analysis from the Mechanical Contractor ?
I suspect, not.
_______ Cooling ___ Heating
Sensible _ _,000 _ _ ,000 BTUh __
???????? maybe ~ 29,000 cooling and ~ 52,000 heating
Latent _,000 or 3,000 _< minimal
How old is your house?
R-__ insulation ceiling (30?)
R-___ walls {19?}
How many windows? 14 or __
One story ... 60' x 36' or so?
Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
I still think that we should have a forum where we could discuss pricing issues.
Wall Street does the price thing, auctions do it as well. Why not have a consumer forum where they could discuss pricing? I live in an area where supply of (good) services is scarce, but the area is quite poor, so it seems like the local grocery and everyone else is overcharging us a lot.
This may seem out of topic, but actually it's on topic a bit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reporters_Without_Borders
Wow!
Freedom of the Press????
I didn't make the rules, but agree with them and abide by them. I guess if you want to discuss pricing you can start your own website. The "freedom" available here is defined by those that control the site. When more people understand that the freedom that our country was founded upon is not based on everyone being free to get what they want when and how they want it, things will turn and get better.
That list is funny. Estonia, a former Soviet republic tops the list as #3 freedom-of-press country. Which is a true fact. Same Estonia is listed as the #7 most competitive economy in the world in another list, but USA is #1 in the competitiveness list, which is great, as it should be. Slovakia, a former communist country is #4 free press country, so are a bunch of other East European tiger countries. USA is #48 and #111 in the free press list and has some space for improvement. I also abide the rules of the owner of the house. We are in a privately owned "house" now, so we follow the owner's rules, of course. Sometimes I think people are mirror of the country. USA for example claims to be a FREE COUNTRY and accentuates that all the time, but look at another 50+ countries that are as free or more free than the U.S. and they are not shouting that they are free. Or perhaps free as in cost less?
Designer Dan __ It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with Some Art. _ _ KEEP IT SIMPLE & SINCERE ___ __ www.mysimplifiedhvac.com ___ __ Define the Building Envelope & Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows & Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities
When I asked them if I switched to A/C would it be heating my house instead of cooling, he said no. Perhaps that helps to understand the case.
I'm not going to put prices up against the house rules, but I saw that my equipment costs a third of the amount of the installation.
QUESTION: There is a professional members only forum here, why not create a forum for consumers only and allow discussing pricing on that particular forum alone?
QUESTION: is it okay to "cheat" a HP thermostat by closing doors to part of the house leaving just a couple rooms ands a corridor where the thermostat is located open? That way the thermostat may think that the HP heats only the two rooms (instead of 6 rooms) and the corridor where the thermostat is located and it keeps 68F in there and 60F in the rest of the house (approximately). I did that and the closed off rooms are about 60F and the "thermostat area" (2 rooms, a bathroom and a corridor) is kept at 68F. Is it a good/safe thing to do or not? Does that safe any money?
because this forum is not owned or operated by the general public. If you want to pay for all that, then feel free. This site was started by professionals with rules in mind that have been adhered to for the most part. That said, I'll go back and read more of this post to see where it went off base.
dn0121: Thanks. What usually is a result of a serious static pressure issue if any happens?
Could cause the fan to break. I have done this though and never had any issues. I don't do it anymore since I had my zoning installed.