What was wrong?
Installed 2 Mitz. Ductless Split today,,,, after leak check, evauation..I asked the Electrician ..I hired........... If it was all set to fire up....
He says go ahead....turn the disconnect...on...
POP
He yells down ...standing in front of the Air Handler
He ended up smokin.. the board on the AH
Has Anyone had any experience with the wiring for these units...
and should I pay this hack...for destoying my payday ?
Now, I will need to contact the supply house on Monday..to replace the board...that he smoked
What was wrong?
Experience is what you have an hour after you need it.
Well,
He Failed to run a 3 wire...for the power supply///
L1 N L2
He ran ONLY 2 wires...
I may go with another electician...
to fix the problem
pissed m,e off !
The power supply for the indoor unit?
Quality and Value Service and Repair
All you need is L1 and L2 and a ground.
The indoor unit gets power from the outdoor unit, maybe he wired 230V to the 12V dc controll going to the indoor unit.
If he did you are F***ed.
As the contractor before any switch get turned on you need to double check all wiring BEFORE you power it up.
Last edited by Freezeking2000; 10-06-2007 at 07:54 PM. Reason: added
Quality and Value Service and Repair
Alot of times the outdoor unit is 120V and the electrician are used to using 240V outside
I have had this happen to me twice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Now I aways check before plugging in the disconnect. Go ahead and order a control board and if the transformer is not part of the board, order a transformer too.
Good Luck
Last edited by moose412000; 10-06-2007 at 11:01 PM. Reason: forgot the first statement
I am looking at the schematic for Mitz. MS 15 series
INDOOR UNIT
2 1 N L1
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
2 1 N L1 L1 N L2 Ground
outdoor unit . . . .
power
supply
The schematic failed to show up
there is a 12 V dc source
12 V DC (polar)
After that happened did you ask the electrican if he could read?
The name plate shows correct voltage and the panel is clear as day how to wire the unit!
But who ever is the start up technician was should have check all that before power is energized to the unit.
Agreed!...We went out to install a 230 volt 3-phase at a plant, checked voltage at the contactor before startup 440 volts. Turns out the boss missed that on the label of the old condensor and ordered the wrong one. Glad voltage was checked before we fired it up. That comp. would have been screaming (for a few seconds anyway)
What model #'s are you installing?
Tom
Polar is the key. L1 needs to go to L1 l2 to L2 and so on. This is from OD unit to ID unit.
I wanted to Strangle this Electrician.....
after smokin the Board
The Indoor Unit is 115 V
The Outdoor Unit is 220 V
DC12 V (POLAR)
from the outdoor unit......to the Indoor Unit
It is Possible the BirdBrain Electrician Crossed the Wires
This would Definetely Smoke the Board
Just called the elec.
He used the same breaker .. 20 amp for both the AH / Cond. unit
instead of running 2 seperate circuits
This can be done...but only with 3 wire + Ground
he used 2 wire
We Discussed the installation prior..
.using 2 sep. circuitshe was obviously trying to save on Materials
Were the instructions missing too? I put on in for my brother. I read the instructions FIRST. If you read them later, they are the CORRECTIONS!
The power for the indoor unit comes from the outdoor unit. (DC I Think) Do not wire the indoor unit directly to the AC power.
Good luck.
Remember, Air Conditioning begins with AIR.
I have installed no less than 30 Mr. Slim units this year. I still get a chuckle from reading the instruction manual. I have been using 14 awg tray cable from the outdoor to the indoor with great success. Our local codes require a form of disconnect indoors. We use the Mitsubishi 3 pole wall switch. It has t1,t2,t3 on one side and m1,m2,m3 on the other. Since the tray cable is clearly marked you can't go wrong. On the MS series just use "one" as L1, "two" as 2, "three" as N and "four" as ground. If it is a MSY, MSZ etc. use "one" as S1, "two" as S2, "three" as S3 and "four" as ground. Since Mitsubishi requires you to break all three legs than why not use their switch. Not to mention the fact it looks better than a disconnect box on most indoor installs. For those who have never seen tray cable....It is a Black cable with four inner wires each clearly marked with "one", "two", "three" and "four".
I have installed no less than 30 Mr. Slim units this year. I still get a chuckle from reading the instruction manual. I have been using 14 awg tray cable from the outdoor to the indoor with great success. Our local codes require a form of disconnect indoors. We use the Mitsubishi 3 pole wall switch. It has t1,t2,t3 on one side and m1,m2,m3 on the other. Since the tray cable is clearly marked you can't go wrong. On the MS series just use "one" as L1, "two" as L2, "three" as N and "four" as ground. If it is a MSY, MSZ etc. use "one" as S1, "two" as S2, "three" as S3 and "four" as ground. Since Mitsubishi requires you to break all three legs than why not use their switch. Not to mention the fact it looks better than a disconnect box on most indoor installs. For those who have never seen tray cable....It is a Black cable with four inner wires each clearly marked with "one", "two", "three" and "four".