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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Is furniture palcement

    More important then comfort? Ceiling registers are great for cooling, but not for heat.
    Which way does warm air go, up not down. Baseboard is normally put against outside walls and under windows. You can't be putting furniture up against all the walls.
    Much easier to have zoning with baseboard then a single hydro-coil air handler which then needs dampers to control. On Long Island, we heat more then 6 months a year, so I'd make sure that's the most comfortable config. Don't put a hydro coil in an attic, too much risk of freezing. Maybe hydro-air for downstairs and baseboard upstairs if you have 2 separate air handlers.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Forced hot air is about the worst heating system you can get. It's ununiform and unsteady vs baseboard. You will be very unhappy with this , especially with ceiling registers. Also, there are big problems with dust in forced air systems.

    I would go baseboard and, where possible, floor radiant. Also with the boiler you could add a hydronic coil now or later to your airhandler to get backup heating in case of a boiler failure.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by arp228 View Post
    SO, what would you choose if you were in my position? I met with the plumber today, and he said in the last 5 years, almost every new heating system he has installed has been the hydro-air. He said that hot water baseboard is "the past". The only reason I am contemplating the hydro-air is without the basebaord, there are no furniture placement issues.
    Stay with base board or better yet, panel radiators and trv's. You will be disapointed with even the best designed hydro air system when compared to radiant panels or baseboard. Do yourself a favor and find a true hydronic proffesional.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
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    And a point on humidity.

    The type of heating system has no reflection on the humidity on the home unless it is bring in outside (or attic) air. Low humidity comes from too much infiltration. Cold outside air, even very humid air, that leaks in and is heated by any source, will now have a low relative humidity. Dry house? Leaky house! So now that you are down to the studs, insulate that sucker and seal leaks. A spray foam insualtion will have you sealed like a ziplock bag. Otherwise, caulk every joint in sight before putting in your batts or whatever. My foaming buddy will go through 200-300 tubes of caulk before he even gets out the foam gun just to make sure not one unwanted spec of air leaks in.

    Some newer homes are so tight they need controlled outdoor air, best through a heat recovery ventilator.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    You want to know the real reason hydro-air is popular....because it's a way for the contractor to install a heating AND cooling system for the least amount of money. This is not to say a well designed and properly installed system is totally inferior to another type of heat, rather it's just putting cost consideration first and comfort second. To lots of people, the difference in comfort can be just about meaningless but the savings are of paramount importance. That is being realistic. But to those who know the difference and for those that can feel the difference, a hydro-air system fails miserably in those regards. Do realize a baseboard heating system with a separate system for cooling could easily cost 2 or even 3 times what a hydro-air system would run.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Gold Coast of Connecticut
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    I would go HYdro-Air for the filtration, humidification and UV if you really want all the bells. I will miss the filtration of my a/c unit now that winter is here. (I have baseboard)
    Aire Serv of SW Connecticut- Gas heat, dual fuel and central a/c systems installed and serviced

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by benncool View Post
    Usually I see eye to eye with baldloonie but not on this one.

    One contractor should be doing the entire project of Heating Ventilating. and Air Conditioning. HVAC lets talk!

    Old house, gutted. Still not new construction no matter how well you insulate it.

    There are five factors you need to consider when "Air Conditioning" or more correctly, Conditioning the air in your home. They are:
    1. Heating.
    2. Cooling
    3. Humidification
    4. Dehumidification
    5. Filtration.

    With the hydro-air system system you can have all 5 of these factors in one central location. As the air goes throw the ductwork you can address all 5 of these factors.

    Plus you can put a little infloor radiant in the downstairs bedrooms, kitchen,and baths to keep your tosesys warm. Also you can add an HRV to keep you place economically ventilated. Also you can add zoning so that you can have separate temperatures in different rooms.

    You can get a bad air system if a plumber trys to install ductwork.

    With baseboard heat you get no humidification, no filtration and you need 8 ft. of baseboard to deliver the same amount of heat as a 12 x 6 inch diffuser does. Which means you have more flexiblity of were you place your furniture.
    sounds like a "complete heat" sales pitch to me.

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