Advice on Mini Split needed - LG or MITSU

[gmahler]

I am getting a mini for a room above the garage. I have been offered a choice of an LG 13 SEER or a MITSU 17 SEER. There's a premium on the MITSU (of course). The LG has dehumidification, I believe it measures humidity and controls the compressor cycle. The MITSU requires more electrical work, needing a couple of breakers.

Appreciate advice on merits of these mfrers.

The room is about 320 sq. ft that does not include a stairwell, one window facing south that gets all the heat in summer. The dealer is planning on a 1 Ton unit. Thanks again.

[Freezeking2000]

I am getting a mini for a room above the garage. I have been offered a choice of an LG 13 SEER or a MITSU 17 SEER. There's a premium on the MITSU (of course). The LG has dehumidification, I believe it measures humidity and controls the compressor cycle. The MITSU requires more electrical work, needing a couple of breakers.

Appreciate advice on merits of these mfrers.

The room is about 320 sq. ft that does not include a stairwell, one window facing south that gets all the heat in summer. The dealer is planning on a 1 Ton unit. Thanks again.

Get the mitsu heat pump MXZ series heat pump, only small wire from outdoor to the indoor unit. You dont need de-humidification with an inverter compressor. Check it out.

This is not a fair compair..................compair Mits to Daikin.

http://www.mrslim.com/Products/Categ...tCategoryID=24

[gmahler]

Get the mitsu heat pump MXZ series heat pump, only small wire from outdoor to the indoor unit. You dont need de-humidification with an inverter compressor. Check it out.

This is not a fair compair..................compair Mits to Daikin.

http://www.mrslim.com/Products/Categ...tCategoryID=24

Could you elaborate a little bit on your 2 points (1) don't need dehumidification (2) not fair comparison - is the mits in a different league altogether. I don't know anything about mini splits.

[Freezeking2000]

The inverter technology of the better models allows the compressor to slow down and not cycle off. This along with the corrected power factor and 16 seer rating blows away the others.

[Freezeking2000]

Could you elaborate a little bit on your 2 points (1) don't need dehumidification (2) not fair comparison - is the mits in a different league altogether. I don't know anything about mini splits.

What model Mits are you looking at?

[gmahler]

I've chosen MSZ-A12NA. I am giving the job to someone I sort of know who does a lot of regular heat pumps but has also done several mini-splits (but only 1 MITSU). That's because I couldn't get the local 'diamond dealer' to respond. Anyway, I've read up on the technology so I know a little more about it and I'm impressed. Since they all say it's so easy to install I guess a HVAC Pro ought to be able to do it. Comments?

My installer says that this unit is going to require two disconnects. One inside the house and one outside. I looked up the install manual on line and it only mentions one (depending on codes). My installer says he thinks that the inside unit runs on 110 and the outside on 230. It's possible he looked up the wrong model, he's going to check.

Can you tell me what's needed? My reading online seems to suggest the outside unit sends back a DC current to control the inside units? Thanks for your input.

[agit8er]

Most local codes require some form of power disconnect indoors and outdoors. Use a standard disconnect outdoors. Have your installer look into using a 4 wire 14ga tray cable to make connection from outdoor to indoor. All four wires in a tray cable are clearly marked "one, two, three and four". S1 to one, S2 to two, S3 to three and finally use "four" for ground. Use the Mitsubishi 3 pole switch in a standard single switch box. Looks much better than using a disconnect box. Not to mention , Mitsubishi wants you to break all three wires. Their switch has t1,t2,t3 on one side and m1,m2,m3 on the other. I usually have to beat my salesman with stick to have them mention the switch to the customer at time of sale. Naturally, the pictures in the brochure never show any form of disconnect.

[jpb2]

Freeze is right along with others. Mits is the thing here. Daikin or Sanyo could be considered equal. For some brain baffeling reason 12-2 will screw the electronics up at times. Make sure it is 14awg. You will be happy

[gmahler]

Thanks for the comments. I'll pass it along to the installer. Just a couple more q's: (1) Is there a DC signal going to the indoor unit on these wires? (2) when I called MITS and talked to their 'product consultant', I asked him how the mini split would perform when outside temps go down. He said that unlike regular heat pumps, the mini split would continue to provide heat at ANY outside temp. and get this, because 'it would extract heat from just running the compressor'. He said it transferred mechanical energy into heat. This seemed like the most fantastic b.s. I've heard. How does the mini perform at low outside temps and should I consider a unit with aux heat? Thanks again, this is a great forum.

[kuryakin]

You should add Fujitsu to your list. Their 1 ton unit is SEER 21! And, in my experience, they are as reliable, are as good, have dehumidification, and usually cost less than the Mitsu units.
And a simple double pole breaker feeds the whole bang.
I wasn't aware Mitsu minisplits required multiple power feeds. Is this true?

I am getting a mini for a room above the garage. I have been offered a choice of an LG 13 SEER or a MITSU 17 SEER. There's a premium on the MITSU (of course). The LG has dehumidification, I believe it measures humidity and controls the compressor cycle. The MITSU requires more electrical work, needing a couple of breakers.

Appreciate advice on merits of these mfrers.

The room is about 320 sq. ft that does not include a stairwell, one window facing south that gets all the heat in summer. The dealer is planning on a 1 Ton unit. Thanks again.

[gmahler]

Well, it's been only a few hours since instal - very pleased. It is quiet, both inside and out. My wife can hear the corn grow and she can barely hear it. The fan is on auto, so it may not be running at the highest speed. Good advice! Thanks.

[agit8er]

You should add Fujitsu to your list. Their 1 ton unit is SEER 21! And, in my experience, they are as reliable, are as good, have dehumidification, and usually cost less than the Mitsu units.
And a simple double pole breaker feeds the whole bang.
I wasn't aware Mitsu minisplits required multiple power feeds. Is this true?

Mitsubishi only needs one double breaker as I stated in my response. But you have to power the indoor from the outdoor. I just suggested the tray cable since it easy to work with and is clearly marked. Two legs carry 230v, I think s1 and s2. S2 to S3 is dc voltage. Always check first as I do not have the schematic with me right now.

[yotaman16]

You should add Fujitsu to your list. Their 1 ton unit is SEER 21! And, in my experience, they are as reliable, are as good, have dehumidification, and usually cost less than the Mitsu units.
And a simple double pole breaker feeds the whole bang.
I wasn't aware Mitsu minisplits required multiple power feeds. Is this true?

I am totally with u there i have been installing a ton of these 21 seer units and havnt had any calls on them and there like a 1/3 the price of a sanyo etc

[Freezeking2000]

I have used t stat wire from the indoor to the outdoor units. FLA is 1A on the indoor units. They now reguire 14/3 between units on the entire product line to simplify things.

[kuryakin]

14 gage is also required because it's code, and T stat wire is VERY unsafe!! It has neither the voltage rating, nor can it handle the potential overload current.
I HOPE you are only kidding...

I have used t stat wire from the indoor to the outdoor units. FLA is 1A on the indoor units. They now reguire 14/3 between units on the entire product line to simplify things.

[FilterFolks]

Why not consider a Samsung product (www.quietside.com) offering an interesting look in the Vivace Series and similar technolgy as the Mitsubishi.

[Freezeking2000]

14 gage is also required because it's code, and T stat wire is VERY unsafe!! It has neither the voltage rating, nor can it handle the potential overload current.
I HOPE you are only kidding...

THE SPEC USED TO BE A LOW VOLTAGE WIRE(THEY GAVE YOU THE BELDIN # AND ALL.)