The 3798 is the newest board. Not sure what the W-R designation is, we only use the OEM parts. Earlier boards, like the 3076 were trouble.
Seems they tend to generate a considerable amount of heat in the center of the board...right around the resistor packs. I have checked any heat frustrated areas hoping to possibly find a cold solder joint, but to no avail. I just usually like to know "why" something failed compared to just swapping it out and calling it good. Thanx for your input...
You can use the W/R 50A65-843 furnace control board it is a universal board designed to replace all 50a65 series boards. There is a jumper that needs to be installed in the 12 pin conector on the furnace wiring harness for Trane units. There is nothing special about the board that would make it BETTER that I can see from the specs. I am wondering why the tech pointed you in that direction rather than checking to see why the furnace cut off. Have the next tech check the unit for propper grounding to the unit and bonding on the burner manifold. Voltage nuetral to ground should be less than 10 volts. hope that helps.
The -843 is the board I ordered and hope that it turns out to be more dependable than it's predecessors. I believe the tech pointed me in that direction because, 1) He couldn't speak English very well and I could barely make out with what he was saying, 2) He charged me as much for the igniter as they charged me last time for the board replacement, and 3) he wanted big bucks for the -476 board he had with him. I do believe it's time to call a "different HVAC mechanic and give them a chance. Thanx again for your post...it is greatly appreciated. V/R,