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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati
    Posts
    108

    Rental property install with a scratch and dent unit

    Did this one for a friend of mine in one of his rentals. Gotta love a scratch and dent unit at half price when there's a half inch scratch on the back side near the floor We reused the filter rack and return, as it was appropriately sized and field fabricated the transition.Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1394385008.223515.jpg
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    593
    Scratch and dent at my supply house means it got dropped and then ran over.
    Install looks nice.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Bothell, WA(Seattle)
    Posts
    244
    Looks good but I would build my transition with a furnace flange as opposed to "S"ing it on. Just my preference.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    15
    Looks good. Better than anything I've seen in rental property around here.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Victorville Ca
    Posts
    4,498
    I think that looks great

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati
    Posts
    108
    Quote Originally Posted by Adlerberts-Protege View Post
    Looks good but I would build my transition with a furnace flange as opposed to "S"ing it on. Just my preference.
    I have field bent that type of flange, with the edge folded over, and find it very hard to bend in the field with a folding tool. Is there something I'm missing?

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Bothell, WA(Seattle)
    Posts
    244
    Quote Originally Posted by ckelley3 View Post
    I have field bent that type of flange, with the edge folded over, and find it very hard to bend in the field with a folding tool. Is there something I'm missing?

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    If you hammer your half x half fold flat you can get your barfold on it. I'm assuming you are using just hand tools?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati
    Posts
    108
    Quote Originally Posted by Adlerberts-Protege View Post
    If you hammer your half x half fold flat you can get your barfold on it. I'm assuming you are using just hand tools?
    I am using just hand tools. I guess I've refrained from hammering the fold flat, as I was under the impression that it's "springiness" helped seal the joint. You've got me interested to try it sometime, thought, as the 4th side is always hard to get in place and nearly impossible if the transition is 8" deep or less. I usually cut slits in my folds on the sides of the last piece so i can bend it enough to slip in both the top and bottom. I'm sure there are plenty of people who will be cussing me one day trying to figure out how to get the dang thing apart, as the slits are concealed once the piece is in place.


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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    4,364
    Is mastic seal not required?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    2,149
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Harper View Post
    Is mastic seal not required?
    depends where you live, where i do....no on residential

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati
    Posts
    108
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Harper View Post
    Is mastic seal not required?
    Not here. I can make my sheet metal transitions nearly leak free without it. Most furnaces are in basements and usually there's even a register in one of the truck lines anyway.

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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Caledonia WI
    Posts
    881
    I much prefer s slips over flanges, and only use them if it can't be avoided.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wi
    Posts
    78
    I remember an episode of this old house where they sealed up all the joints on an old ladies furnace and duct work and she called them back some time later because her basement was cold so they cut a register in.

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