Our line comming into the main unit keeps freezing. Called service and was told gthere are several freon leaks and the condenser must be replaced. Was told that because of the new requirements the inside unit should also be replaced to match the units. He recommended a 80 k furnace and a Traiine XLi14 conditioner. He said we could use the olcd furnace and replace the coil and go with a Traine XR13 conditioner with less efficiency. He didn't seem to do any of the magic calculations mentioned in other threads on the forum. I live in North West Atlanta area, West Cobb County. What should I be looking for? And if permitted are there recommendations on good honest contractors in my area I can call?
I know nothing, but am trying to learn from this forum.
Howdy neighbor, Paulding County resident here. I don't do residential, but maybe I can give you some advice.
Yes, with the new equipment you should replace the indoor coil when you replace the outdoor unit.It's not a regulation issue, but the equipment should be matched for proper operation and to protect the warranty. If the furnace is in good shape you can reuse it just fine as long as it provides sufficient airflow.
Trane is good equipment, you can't go wrong there.
I would question the contractor some more about the refrigerant leaks, why can't he find them or repair them. It's possible that they're in the condenser coil and if so a new unit may be in order but I'd want to know mare about the details.
There are some good resi contractors here, maybe one of them will reply.
I wish I had more information, but I was at work and my wife gave me the information late Friday. I will make some calls on Monday. She told me there are three leaks. His service report says I have lost 3lbs and the condensor and E coil shows extreem wear. It is 14 years. He said he could replace the coil and condenser, but we would be much happier with a complete new system.
What's the budget? What kind of shape is your furnace in?
The XL14i requires a matching variable speed blower to get 14 SEER with a Trane coil. Otherwise it runs around 13 SEER which is what the XR13 gets with the existing furnace.
If your current furnace is fine and you don't have the bucks needed to get a new one, you sure don't need to replace it. Yea, it makes for a better commission check for the salesman but if you don't upgrade to a fancier furnace say 2 stage or variable speed, comfort won't change. If you have a 14 year old furnace it's very likely at least 80% efficient now.
One thing to look into is dual fuel. Putting a heat pump outside even though you have a gas furnace inside. The gas works in subfreezing weather while the heat pump provides cheap heat the rest of the time. That would have a far better payback than a new 80% furnace if you already have one.
With Hotlanta's humidity, a variable speed indoor unit if you do replace would be nice coupled with a thermostat that did humidity control. Right now we are cool but very humid. Just turned the machine on with the stat calling for cooling & extra dehumdiciation. I'm amazed at the water pouring out of the drain
With Hotlanta's humidity,
You MUST search more for a company that will do a Manual 'J' load analysis on your home. If you've lived there since the home and original system went in, you'd be the best source of information on whether there have been any changes in the home, such as insulation, tightening or air leaks, new roof shingles of a different color, addition of occupied square footage, new windows or doors, etc. ANY and I mean ANY, truly PROFESSIONAL company will NOT accept someone else's heat gain/loss calculation (as in when the first system was installed). Even if the calcs come out to both units already being properly sized, you've discovered the on thing that will set your installing company head and shoulders above the rest. If they don't voluntarily offer to do a load analysis, they're simply NOT professhional. They're just box changers. Search the websites of any manufacturer of equipment, the US DOE or EPA. They'll all tell you the same thing. Have a load analysis done. Also check for the company guarantees and warranties. Some will only give you the manufacturer's and others have substantially more. Why the difference? Because some companies will be holding themselves to a very high standard and know that they have to check the duct installation, the loads on the home, the drains, proper venting, etc. When they're giving you more than the basic coverage, believe me, they're worth a LOT more than a company that doesn't do loads and doesn't give more than the manufacture's warranty. You're going to spend some money and the mere fact that you're seeking information at this forum indicates you KNOW you're taking a gamble. So we're giving you some tools to help minimize the gamble. Get a professional company. You won't get the lowest price but would your rather lose a little money (the additional cost of the job) or all of it (a cheaper installation and the headaches associated with improperly sized and/or installed equipment)?
If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.
If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!
The average lifespan of an ac is 15 yrs.It would be counterproductive to repair an old junker car why not an ac?
Take your time & do it right!