My first furnace set/install - Page 2
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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    381
    Looks good. Try keeping your copper lines together and you'll like it even more.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Gainesville, FL
    Posts
    325
    Quote Originally Posted by dsprice View Post
    Looks good. Try keeping your copper lines together and you'll like it even more.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
    What he said. Other than that, awesome. Sheet metal looks great.

    PVC had me fooled too. I was trying to figure out wth you had done.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,600
    internally lined with insulation ?
    We really need change now

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Stongsville Oh
    Posts
    891
    Ductwork looks very good, I like the paperwork rack. Refrigeration looks horrible. Sorry but no pipe hangers, not parallel and perpendicular make it look sloppy. Try to use benders or fitting in the future. Also pipe hangers of some sort.
    ckartson
    I didn't write the book I just read it!

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Salisbury, Maryland
    Posts
    135
    Agreed, line set is a bit sloppy but some benders will take care of that. Ductwork looks pretty good. I would probably had tried to figure a different way to pipe in the gas line to keep it out of the way of the coil.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    NTexas
    Posts
    79
    That would be my only two items as well. The gas line is right in front of the coil making access difficult, and the lineset looks kind of sloppy.

    Linesets are one of my peeves. In my opinion, whether it's the indoor or outdoor unit, the cleanliness of the lineset install and connections can make or break the whole install. It's one of the first things the customer sees and it should be perfect.

    Good job though. Very clean install.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    72
    Thanks for the feedback guys. I will be using it in the future to fine tune my installs. On this particular job, I didn't do the roughin, this is a new house. I agree with you guys about the gas and linesets. Still havent gotten my tubing bender from the company and was short on fittings and time. I can see how the gas would be a problem if the evap coil ever needed servicing, would u guys have just spun the tree out so that it's perpendicular to the furnace? Just looking for some more detailed feedback I guess, but thanks regardless.


    Sent from my iPhone, Jason

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    2,132
    where you come out of the gas valve/furnace, go straight up (in between the supply, and return (Your already there, just need to go straight up) and fasten that liquid line to the suction. Duct work looks great, i also like the paper box.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Western, KY
    Posts
    2,820
    For your first job ever I say it looks pretty good. Here's some things to do on the next one though:

    Don't ever let the refrigerant lines look like that again. They should be kept together, properly supported and the only change in directions should be the 90's or 45's you bend or braze in.

    With that much room to the trunk you should put the furnace up on a return box, especially on 4 or 5 ton systems.

    Is that a low pressure regulator on the gas line? The way we do LP here is to put the low pressure regulator on the outside of the house and then use black iron on the inside. That set up would not pass code for us but if that's how it is in your area then I would recommend finding a way to stream line it to look better and keep it out of they way of any panels or equipment.

    I believe on that furnace you could have taken both pipes out of the right side, next time go ahead and do that, it keeps the pipes together and looking good while making it easy to access the coil for repairs. Any 90% you install make sure the pipes can be removed by a tech without cutting into them. You can do this with the fernco fittings or what I do, if the final connection is a glue in fitting on the furnace I make sure all my piping is supported well and that last fitting gets red high temp silicone, it doesn't have to be high temp silicone but a tech will easily spot the red and know that it can be removed.

    As for the PVC piping, don't dry fit, it usually messes you up. Find out what the bury is on your pipe fittings, that way you can hold a fitting where you want it, measure to the other fitting and then just add your bury for both connections and it will end up exactly where you want it.

    Same thing on gas work, find out what the bury is on your threads, for 1/2" and 3/4" I use a 1/2" bury on each fitting, then you just measure from one fitting to the next and add an 1" for your total nipple length, make sense?

    With a few tweaks you can have some really good looking installs. Just think about what's going to look clean, organized and professional before you do whatever you're going to do.

    Keep up the good work and keep getting better!

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    2,132
    also on your combustion air 2" pvc line, not sure on your setup, but ruud that i put in, you need to add a tee and drain fitting, and line to floor drain/pump, and the dirt leg on the inlet of the gas to the furnace is the only one you need
    Last edited by garychance; 09-14-2013 at 11:39 AM.

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    ON, Canada
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by Core_d View Post
    Same thing in ohio inspector needs to know you primed it.
    That seems highly unnecessary, Ive spoken to ipex representatives who've said primer is always a good thing but only really required when working in extremely low temperatures.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Pavilion, NY
    Posts
    2,094
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason2013 View Post
    In Minnesota, by code purple primer is required. And not sure what a Fernco fitting is? For future service?


    Sent from my iPhone, Jason
    Unpurple primer is all I use, I provide all code enforcement with uv lights
    ...

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Seattle WA
    Posts
    1,225
    Haha it does look like the exhaust goes up and back to the intake in a loop
    America; first we fight for our freedom,
    then we make laws to take it away.

    -Alfred E Newman

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